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How to Drill and Install Ashtray / Pickup Cover?

May 28, 2005
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1,687
Colorado
Hey all,

Just before I jump into it myself, I was just wondering the best and safest way to drill into my bass to install a pickup cover.

I'm putting a Jazz bass pickup cover on my Lakland, and I know I should use tape to line it up where it should be, but I'm more concerned with HOW to drill the holes.

Should I just drill the screws straight in?

Or should I use a drill bit and THEN screw the screws into that?


Thanks!
 
I did it without much thought and really regret it even though it doesn't make the bass play/sound any different. THey aren't perfect, and i messed up a bit on the pick guard drilling and so theirs some extra holes and bleh but you cant tell at all because it's a red tort. So it's ok.
 
How deep should I go? Just estimate the length of the screw?

Don't estimate anything. Measure the length of the screw from the point to the bottom of the head, add maybe a 1/16th of an inch as a "buffer zone" to that and place a piece of masking tape on the drill bit at that point as a depth guide.

And how much smaller of a bit should I use than the screw?

The drill bit should be about the same diameter as the shaft minus the threads.
One other tip : Check the underside of the screwholes on the cover for burrs that can scratch up your finish. Easily removed with a coarse emery board.
One other thing - careful measuring is key here. Another tip, use small pieces of double sided sticky tape (the non-permanent kind) on the underside of the cover's mounting flanges so you can mark where to drill the holes without the cover sliding around , then lift it off, check the alignment, if need be, you can try it again.
 
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One other tip : Check the underside of the screwholes on the cover for burrs that can scratch up your finish. Easily removed with a coarse emery board.

Great advice, thanks so much.

Once I get the cover, I'll look things over to see if I feel like it's a job I can do myself. If not, I will definitely take to a professional.

I was just hoping to save myself some time and $$$ and learn something in the process.
 
Great advice, thanks so much.

Once I get the cover, I'll look things over to see if I feel like it's a job I can do myself. If not, I will definitely take to a professional.

I was just hoping to save myself some time and $$$ and learn something in the process.

Just be careful and take your time, and again, measure carefully, You should be fine. To paraphrase that old carpenter's advice - "Measure twice, 'drill' once."
And as you say, having a pro do it is another option if you're not all that sure. I'm sure it wouldn't be outrageously expensive.
 
Well, being a hands-on kind of a guy, I would just drill it myself - and indeed I have done just that. Make sure the diameter of the drill bit is the size of the screw's shaft, not the size of the threads or anything in between. I like to screw my holes just a tiny bit shy of the screw's penetrating length so that the tip of the screw and at least one row of thread gets a chance to really bite into the wood. Once I have determined that distance you can wrap a thin strip of masking or duct tape around the shaft of the drill bit to create a stopping point. Or, you can simply use a Sharpie and mark the bit and you'll see your stop line as the bit spins. If it were me I would put blue painter's tape on the back side of the ashtray so you can freely move it around on the body of the guitar without fear of marring the finish. I would then use a combination of just eyeballing the desired position (and then marking the holes with one color of Sharpie), and then double checking the relationship of those holes with the ashtray out of the way. If your measuring results in a slight difference in position, I would use a second color of Sharpie to mark those holes. Then put the ashtray back into this final position and just look at it to see how it strikes your eyes. Re-adjust as many times as needed. A drop of denatured alcohol on a Q-tip with remove any unwanted Sharpie marks. When you drill make sure your drill bit is plumb to your bass body so your holes will not be slanted. If you have a drill press, then use that, but be sure to pad the deck of the press and get help holding the bass into position while drilling. If you're worried about the bit slipping while drilling, then mask off the bass around the bridge and mark your holes right on the tape - might be tuff to get a good visual on it though with the tape in your way. I would measure many times and then drill! Hope this helps and good luck!
 
Well, being a hands-on kind of a guy, I would just drill it myself - and indeed I have done just that. Make sure the diameter of the drill bit is the size of the screw's shaft, not the size of the threads or anything in between. I like to screw my holes just a tiny bit shy of the screw's penetrating length so that the tip of the screw and at least one row of thread gets a chance to really bite into the wood. Once I have determined that distance you can wrap a thin strip of masking or duct tape around the shaft of the drill bit to create a stopping point. Or, you can simply use a Sharpie and mark the bit and you'll see your stop line as the bit spins. If it were me I would put blue painter' tape on the back side of the ashtray so you can freely move it around on the body of the guitar without fear of marring the finish. I would then use a combination of just eyeballing the desired position (and then marking the holes with one color of Sharpie), and then double checking the relationship of those holes with the ashtray out of the way. If your measuring results in a slight difference in position, I would use a second color of Sharpie to mark those holes. Then put the ashtray back into this final position and just look at it to see how it strikes your eyes. Readjust as many times as needed. A drop of denatured alcohol on a Q-tip with remove any unwanted Sharpie marks. When you drill make sure your drill bit is plumb to your bass body so your holes will not be slanted. If you have a drill press, then use that, but be sure to pad the deck of the press and get help holding the bass into position while drilling. If you're worried about the bit slipping while drilling, then mask off the bass around the bridge and mark your holes right on the tape - might be tuff to get a good visual on it though with the tape in your way. Hope this helps and good luck!


listen to the man he knows. he can get wishbasses to play:D

seriously - this is right on. one other thing to consider. i have used those little green felt circle things on bottoms of covers i have installed to prevent any indent when screwing in tight...
 
Won't help with the depth, but here's a chart that will help with drill bit size.

http://www.shender4.com/thread_chart.htm

All you are doing is preventing the wood around the screw from being overly compressed to the point it will crack and also not bulge up under the screw head when it is displaced by the screw. If you don't have one, get a countersink. Drill your holes, then put some lube (wax is best) on the screw and run it in the hole. Take it back out and clean up the torn wood fibers at the top of the hole with your countersink. A little goes a very long way with a countersink so don't go any deeper than required to get the surface around the hole completely flat. You will be rewarded with a cover that sits parallel to the top of your bass and a nice even joint all the way round.

Yes I know it's a minor thing, but the devil lives in the smallest of details my friend.
 
The only thing you have to worry about depth wise is to not drill through the back of the guitar. This is really a simple task, getting the cover lined up in the right position and the holes marked correctly is more difficult than drilling your pilot holes and screwing the cover down.
 
On my custom P/J, I installed sleeves for hex-head machine screws so that the wood would not chew out from repeated on-and-off of the ashtray over time as I needed to change strings. Remember that originally, players only changed the factory stock flatwounds if they broke or otherwise became damaged. Periodic or routine string changes came later.

http://www.talkbass.com/threads/a-different-custom-p-style-bass.755914/
 
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When my '76 Precision arrived, I followed Duck Dunn's lead and took off the 'ashtray' bridge cover and p'up cover and thumb-rest and threw them all away. I did actually try to use the 'ashtray' as an ashtray but it sucked at that job too so into the trash it went. Save your money and don't drill any holes.
 
Batmensch has it covered, with the addition of fhm555's wax tip. I've done all that many times over the years, and if you take your time and their advice, you'll be fine. I don't have a legit "power drill," I've just used my Dremel tool. Come to think on it, I've also used a "Yankee" push-drill for the same job!
 
Took a while, but I did it. After getting it all on, I measured again and somehow, on the pick up cover I ended up 1/16 off from one side to the other, but all in all, I'm pretty pleased with the outcome.
 

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Ooooh I was thinking about doing the same thing with my P-Bass. I didn't know it required that much work to get these covers to fit perfectly.

As for the pickup cover, it would have been easier if my pickguard had the mounting holes around the pickup, as seen on those vintage pickguards.

As for the bridge cover, ah,..well..how hard can it really be?