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How to remove a stripped screw

Agreed
I've made a few mods to mine
Front brake caliper and M/C off of a modern bike; stock caliper thinned (saved 3 1/2 lbs)
Forks revalved
New rear shocks which are much taller (+ extensions = 15 1/2") with the forks slid through the triple clamps; better weight distribution for the corners and the front wheel stays on the ground at least in the upper gears
Bridgestone tires; modified clutch; updated CDI; Denco chambers; modern headlight; 425 lbs and about 85 HP; etc.
Frame, tank, and much of the motor is stock though
Sounds like no other bike!

I would love to have an old RD. A Kawasaki is another whole ball of wax. They called 'em flexi-fliers for a reason!
 
I love RD's and I think a great rider can go faster through the twisties.
It turns out the flex in the frame is mostly in the swing arm.
Good thing I have an aluminum swinger from a modern Yamaha that bolts right in and is the same length!
The triples guys have all the factory documentation so it wouldn't take much to cut some 3/16" plate and MIG weld it in place at the steering head and another section on the rear of the frame (material and welder is in the shop).
At 57, I honestly don't ride it near it's limits.
You young kids; well thats another thing!
 
Thanks Dave.
I've never heard of this tool and the price looks very right.
Thank you for this.
My 1972 H2 is a bit of a special so there are VERY few Phillips screw heads left!

I thought I learned of them from KTW, or the board previous to to K2S. Heck, I probably thought I learned it from you! :D

Most of the cross-point fasteners on my H2 have been changed out for SHCS; especially the side cases and carb boot clamps. But having the JIS tools now make a world of difference on all Phillips drive screws.

Note: you DO NOT want to use Phillips or JIS tools on Speakon connectors. Get the proper pozi-drive tool, keep it properly aligned and seated in the Speakon's fastener head, and it will properly tighten the conductor clamps.
 
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