• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Inside my Markbass Mini CMD 121P

#21
I'm thinking about adding a NY121 to mine for larger venues. Currently I use one of my GS112's and it sounds fantastic. The Aggie adds some deeper lows to the mix. But I like the idea of matching cabs...what are you guys using as an extension? And for those using the NY121 does it add a little more low end push?
 
#23
Jim Ingraham said:
I'm thinking about adding a NY121 to mine for larger venues. Currently I use one of my GS112's and it sounds fantastic. The Aggie adds some deeper lows to the mix. But I like the idea of matching cabs...what are you guys using as an extension? And for those using the NY121 does it add a little more low end push?
Click to expand...

No doubt you would hear some more lows with an extension cab. As I said, I added a 151P to my 121H combo, and hear much better lows. I don't think it's because the cab I added is a 15". That cab has not been rated by most as being particularly low-tuned. I think it's just the fact of having two cabs. Someone else can explain it better than I can, though.
 
#24
I tried disconnecting the tweeter from my 121P, and was disappointed with the results. As Jimmy said, pretty much everything over 2k vanished. Since that sound can be achieved by turning up the VLE knob, it seemed sort of pointless.

This WAS useful during a brief period between the tweeter doing bad (making horrible clicking noises) and getting the replacement part.
 
#25
Thanks for the pics!

For all of you Little Mark users, I noticed in my manual that my head has an analog power amp and that other Markbass amps have a digital power amp. Would the Little Mark amp have a "warmer" sound with the analog power amp, or what would be the basic difference in sound (all else equal) between analog and digital power amps?
 
#26
Handyman said:
I tried disconnecting the tweeter from my 121P, and was disappointed with the results. As Jimmy said, pretty much everything over 2k vanished. Since that sound can be achieved by turning up the VLE knob, it seemed sort of pointless.

This WAS useful during a brief period between the tweeter doing bad (making horrible clicking noises) and getting the replacement part.
Click to expand...

My only interest in disconnecting the tweeter was to get rid of the hiss from the piezo which is my only complaint about the amp.
 
#28
JimmyM said:
IMHO the tweeter disconnection is not a good idea for the 121P. The woofer has nothing past 2k, or at least it sounds that way to me, so you lose all your highs altogether. If you want a more vintage sound, best to use the VLE knob. Plus it voids the warranty.
Click to expand...

It might help if instead of just disconnecting the tweeter, that you ran the signal straight to the woofer. I'm thinking that the higher frequencies are still just being blocked instead of going to the woofer when you just disconnect the tweeter.
 
#31
Freddels said:
It might help if instead of just disconnecting the tweeter, that you ran the signal straight to the woofer. I'm thinking that the higher frequencies are still just being blocked instead of going to the woofer when you just disconnect the tweeter.
Click to expand...
I wish that worked. Might have kept it if it did. There's no difference.
 
#32
I just recently took pictures of the inside of my Markbass Traveler 151P cabinet:

IMG_0271.jpg

IMG_0273.jpg

IMG_0276.jpg


You can see it has less batting than the CMD121P. The batting itself is also much thinner. The two sides shown are the only two sides that are covered. I was always under the impression that the most important side to cover is the rear directly behind the speaker. I'll probably end up redoing the batting since it's cheap and easy to do. Otherwise, the construction of the cabinet feels very solid.
 
#34
bassman64 said:
when you took the head out did it have a top like a complete LMII head or is the top of the cab its cover?
Click to expand...

The combo head is mostly uncovered. Here's a pic:
P7050249.jpg


I wish they didn't do that because I would've loved to use the head separately with my 1x15 cab. I've recently sold the combo and got a F500 head, so problem solved :bassist:
 
#35
domdec314 said:
The combo head is mostly uncovered. Here's a pic:
P7050249.jpg


I wish they didn't do that because I would've loved to use the head separately with my 1x15 cab. I've recently sold the combo and got a F500 head, so problem solved :bassist:
Click to expand...

thanks...

thats silly with as good as that amp is built you would think they would have left or added the cover plate.
whatever, can really **** on them for that.overall its one of the best built amps out there
 
#36
Thank you for those pictures. I was wondering if it had some kind of "walls" made inside so the air flows inside in a certain way to get a good bass response from such a small cabinet. I see it doesn't. Some subwoofer cabinets do have those I talk about.

Thank you again.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back