Is anyone else unable to change string gauge relation?

[Killed_by_Death]

I might try those XL170s,

EXL170BT is the model number, BT = Balanced Tension
right now I have a set tuned Eb Drop Db & that 0.107" string is helpful when it's dropped lower than the other strings
I dislike the 0.045" - 0.1" sets a lot, because they're horrible for even Drop-D.

 

[SunByrne]

EXL170BT is the model number, BT = Balanced Tension

Yep, sloppy typist, but I put the right thing in my Sweetwater list.

 

[Killed_by_Death]

TBH I wish someone made Stainless sets in balanced tension!

 

[micguy]

Why don't the string companies make it like that then?

Good question. A lot of things (like why guitars and basses have high impedance pickups) make sense if you consider other things going on at the time. Unbalanced string gauges? You’d have to ask someone who probably isn’t around anymore.

The inertia of the original decisions is why we haven’t fixed the problem, the origins of it (I don’t buy the radiused fingerboard argument) I don’t know.

 

[Eddie LeBlanc]

I hear people raving about Kalium strings. I've never tried them, but they have a lot of options.
Electric Bass | Kalium Music

 

[superheavyfunk]

IME: i like the tensions to be fairly relative, but i don't have issues with small differences --- i've never played a set that i thought had huge differences. or i wasn't bothered by it if those huge differences existed.

i guess i'm in the 'adaptable' group. some will envy that.

like JRA, I'm in the "adaptable" camp but I'd prefer not to have super light strings up top. I find I dig in a lot when playing live and I'll sometimes pull the G string off the edge of the fretboard if it's too light. I'm a medium-heavy gauge string guy... I'll usually opt for heavier strings and more tension overall rather than the skinny, lighter ones.

 

[Chad T]

I’m not a fan of going on tension only. I also factor in the feel/size of one string to the next. I also don’t like the tone of heavier gauge strings. Tension would dictate I should be using something like a 135 or 140 B string, but I generally prefer the feel and tone of a 120 or 125. Yeah, it’s a bit floppy but I just adjust my technique.

 

[zontar]

I've never really paid attention.
I've used variety of brands over the years--mostly D'Addario & GHS, and for my short scale bass--buying what I can find--so I've use gauges that start with .45-.50 & go up to .95-1.05.

I've never noticed much a difference.

 

[ixlramp]

Or the differences?

. I like to mix d'addario sets so its 105-45 and am considering the 100-40 set because those are the gauge differences that I'm used to.

The gauge 'difference' is the wrong value to consider. Unfortunately due to tradition, 4 string sets often have .020 between adjacent gauges, which has misled people into thinking the difference of .020 is important.
Actually ...

the diameters (for even tension) should follow a geometric progression

... this is correct. The value to consider is the 'multiplier' between adjacent gauges (higher gauge divided by lower gauge) not the difference (higher gauge minus lower gauge).
For a fourth interval, a gauge multiplier of 4 / 3 (1.333) results in approximately equal tensions, if equal tensions is what you want.

With practicalities thrown in, you'll find the ratio needs to increase a bit - with strings at the same tension, you don't need a bigger core for the bigger strings, so there's more air between windings (on a round wound), as they take up more of the diameter. To get the mass back, you need a bit more diameter on bigger strings. If you look at string tension charts, you'll find the .126B string wants to be more like a .130.

Absolutely correct, it is good to see someone else realises this.

Thomastik designed a .136 B next to their .100 E for their flat wounds. Which sounds ridiculous but then they’ve been making strings for 100 years or so — who am I to question?

Only because we are used to sets with the B looser than the E.
A .135 B is actually similar tension to a .100 E.
And we absolutely should question everything.

 

[Sam Dingle]

The gauge 'difference' is the wrong value to consider. Unfortunately due to tradition, 4 string sets often have .020 between adjacent gauges, which has misled people into thinking the difference of .020 is important.
Actually ...

... this is correct. The value to consider is the 'multiplier' between adjacent gauges (higher gauge divided by lower gauge) not the difference (higher gauge minus lower gauge).
For a fourth interval, a gauge multiplier of 4 / 3 (1.333) results in approximately equal tensions, if equal tensions is what you want.

Absolutely correct, it is good to see someone else realises this.

Only because we are used to sets with the B looser than the E.
A .135 B is actually similar tension to a .100 E.
And we absolutely should question everything.

hmm maybe its all in my head but i just put on a 65/45 DG on my d'addario chrome set replacing a...70/50 and the progression feels more natural to me. i think its just one of those things where i know how to adjust my technique per string like that. i do the same on upright and like that gradual increase in tension (gauge?) as I go down to the low E

the B string is funny, i've always liked 130 with the 105-45 high beam set, and once got a 125 B without knowing. i changed strings and played all night breaking the set in thinking i got a bad B and then double checked.

I had ordered a 135 high beam B once and it was niiice. I might go back to it.

 

[80jazz]

I’m on a “how light can I go?” trip. At this point, anything over .040 is way too much work.

.030 GHS Boomers on the Dingwall Super P bass. So much fun!

.035 D’Addario XL on the Cirrus. About as light as I can go for a 35” scale. Xl’s are excellent and super inexpensive. I think I paid under $14 for the set from Fret Nation. (On sale)

.040 DR Pure Blues on the Dingwall AB-1 (36-34”). Hard to find lighter strings that fit the longscale Dingwalls. The Pure Blue E string just makes it over the nut.

The Pure Blues are my favorites and could go on any of the others.

If I’m in the mood for flats, I’ve got a set of TI jazz flats I put on the Super P.

I wish I had started exploring light strings long ago.

I only use nickel or alloys, stainless steel is too grippy and shreds my fingers.

I am this guy too. I like 35-90, but can do 40-95 (although I have a set of Power Steel SITs on a bass in 40-60-80-95 and I feel like it is too thick. I think it is the 80 in the set) with low enough action (Ditto for a bass that has 40-60-80-100-130).

To the OP: I thought in a similar way mentioned in your post until my early 30s. Without getting too deep into the story, I had a bass I put much lighter strings on and discovered I could do 35-50-70-90 in E standard tuning without them being too light for my fingers. I do 35-55-70-90 for that since Rotosound makes a set in those gauges (and Swing Bass 66 strings are generally a winner for me).

I think everyone should try lighter gauges. I don`t think everyone would go lighter, but I wouldn`t be surprised to see a number of bassists go lighter than the usual 45-105.