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Is the "rule" about crimping round core strings a myth?

Nov 3, 2003
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So everyone around here says you are supposed to crimp DRs and other round core strings before cutting them in order to prevent them from going dead or unwrapping. I installed my first round core strings yesterday (DR Sunbeams) and here is what the instructions in the box say:

"ROUND core wire, by definition, has no edges. Hex core has 6. So, at DR we flatten the round core wire to create an anchor for the wrap wire to grip the core wire.

We flatten a small section of the core wire at a spot that should lie past the nut at the top of the fingerboard, and between the tuning machines of your instrument. This flat section provides an anchor for the wrap wire to grip the core wire. You should be able to feel this flattened area between your fingers as you touch the end of the string opposite the ball end.

Without the anchor the string is likely to unwind, go "dead," and fail to intonate properly.

If you need to cut or trim your strings between the anchor (the flattened section) and the ball end...carefully and severely bend, or "crimp," your string as illustrated. The severe bend (crimp) will provide an anchor for the round core.

In some instances properly installing the strings and then cutting or trimming the excess wire will suffice to avoid wrap wire coming loose from round cores."

Now consider the parts that I've underlined. If you are installing the long scale strings on a long scale bass, then there doesn't seem to be any reason to crimp the strings, at least not according to DR's own instructions.
 
I've had a round core string unravel when I didn't crimp. It happened once. This isn't anything but anecdotal but the logic is sound and crimping isn't difficult. And most of the.basses I've owned have been Fenders with fat tuners so I often didn't have to cut strings at all.
 
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I've crimped simply because it helps the string stay in the tuning peg hole while i wind it up. Never actually heard about it preventing the string from unwrapping. I kind of don't think that is a huge risk. There was a long time where i did not crimp the string and have never even seen a hint of a string unwinding.
 
A few months back, I asked my local shop owner/tech if he crimped strings. I even showed him this DR article as well as something similar from Fodera's website. He said he's been installing strings for 35+ years w/out crimping and never had an issue or complaint about strings unraveling. And DR strings are his personal favorites.

I guess if - as the DR instructions indicate - you cut the strings to a length where their factory-created flat spot remains intact - or don't cut them at all - there's no need to crimp. I install my own strings now, and crimp either round or hex core before cutting just because.
 
I've never quite understood crimping, can someone explain it to me?

I'm thinking it means to bend the string so it makes a 'hook' and then cut the string a little after the bend. But then you're left with a 'hook' that is too big to be inserted down into the hole of the tuner except maybe on the D and G strings, so can someone clarify exactly?
 
I've never quite understood crimping, can someone explain it to me?

I'm thinking it means to bend the string so it makes a 'hook' and then cut the string a little after the bend. But then you're left with a 'hook' that is too big to be inserted down into the hole of the tuner except maybe on the D and G strings, so can someone clarify exactly?

If the "hook" is too wide (diameter), then you've crimped the full-wrap thickness and not the taper (...which fits nicely) which suggests you're using the wrong string set in terms of winding length. A properly-sized set should transition between the nut and tuner post.

Riis
 
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If the "hook" is too wide (diameter), then you've crimped the full-wrap thickness and not the taper (...which fits nicely) which suggests you're using the wrong string set in terms of winding length. A properly-sized set should transition between the nut and tuner post.

Riis

Definitely not the case. I've been changing strings since 1989 :)

What I mean is...even if you don't bend the string over and just cut the taper, B,E, and sometimes A strings barely fit down in the hole to begin with because they have larger cores and tapers. If you make a hook, then you have double the thickness to try to jam down in the hole.
 
Definitely not the case. I've been changing strings since 1989 :)

What I mean is...even if you don't bend the string over and just cut the taper, B,E, and sometimes A strings barely fit down in the hole to begin with because they have larger cores and tapers. If you make a hook, then you have double the thickness to try to jam down in the hole.

By "hook", I mean 90 deg angle not folding it back upon itself. I've never had a bent taper fail to fit a Hipshot, GB-7, or Sperzel.

Riis