Jazz bass wired in series

[NKBassman]

Quick question - I know Jazz basses are prone to humming when soloing either neck or bridge pups in parallel mode but what about series? Has soon as I engage series mode, I get the same type of humming - is this normal?

I would think that's not normal. "Standard" series wiring, not some of the "fancier" wiring schemes proposed in this thread, would have both pickups full on in series with only one volume control in the circuit, and so should be fully hum-cancelling if your pickups are wired properly.

 

[TonyP-]

I would think that's not normal. "Standard" series wiring, not some of the "fancier" wiring schemes proposed in this thread, would have both pickups full on in series with only one volume control in the circuit, and so should be fully hum-cancelling if your pickups are wired properly.

Agreed
I have few basses with just the master volume and both pickups wired in series...There is no hum.

 

[TonyP-]

I'm hoping to try this with a Spector soon...Just waiting to see of I can get that pickup in the string spacing size.

 

[Stan_da_man]

I would think that's not normal. "Standard" series wiring, not some of the "fancier" wiring schemes proposed in this thread, would have both pickups full on in series with only one volume control in the circuit, and so should be fully hum-cancelling if your pickups are wired properly.

Agreed
I have few basses with just the master volume and both pickups wired in series...There is no hum.

Hmm... something going on here then. My active Sandberg has a series switch and that produces the exact same hum when I flick it over from parallel mode.

 

[mcnach]

Hmm... something going on here then. My active Sandberg has a series switch and that produces the exact same hum when I flick it over from parallel mode.

Are both coils active in both positions?
You can test that by lightly tapping the polepieces with a screwdriver (turn volume down first, and turn up until the thuds are not too loud).
I wonder if it's a coil tap switch rather than series/parallel...

 

[Stan_da_man]

So here is a recording of my jazz bass.

The settings are:
Both pickups fully open
Neck pickup rolled back
Bridge pickup rolled back
Series mode activated
Series mode deactivated-back to both pups open

Tone pot is wide open the entire time.

 

[Stan_da_man]

Are both coils active in both positions?
You can test that by lightly tapping the polepieces with a screwdriver (turn volume down first, and turn up until the thuds are not too loud).
I wonder if it's a coil tap switch rather than series/parallel...

You are correct - brain fart!

 

[Funky40]

little side question:
I want to test that series wiring also.
I have two 5er basses with single coils. ( Jazz type kind of Basses).

whats the best order:
the hot wire of the bridge pickup ----> into the ground wire of the Neck pup,
----> then hot wire of the Neck pup to the electronics ( plus ground wire from the bridge pup to the electronics) ?
Or the other way around, Neck hot wire into the bridge pup ?

 

[fig]

I want to test that series wiring also.
I have two 5er basses with single coils. ( Jazz type kind of Basses).

whats the best order:
the hot wire of the bridge pickup ----> into the ground wire of the Neck pup,
----> then hot wire of the Neck pup to the electronics ( plus ground wire from the bridge pup to the electronics) ?
Or the other way around, Neck hot wire into the bridge pup ?

Short answer: It doesn't matter.

Longer answer: Most of the schematics and diagrams I've seen, and drawn for myself, have the
the hot wire of the bridge pickup ----> into the ground wire of the Neck pup,
----> then hot wire of the Neck pup to the electronics ( plus ground wire from the bridge pup to the electronics).

This seems to be the standard way of doing it.

However, hooking it up the other way doesn't matter. I specifically tested that years ago and couldn't hear a difference. I didn't think it would and the test verified it for me.

Just curious, which series do you want to test? Series pickups, followed by a single tone and single volume? Or series pickups, each with a volume, followed by a single tone?

 

[Funky40]

Just curious, which series do you want to test? Series pickups, followed by a single tone and single volume? Or series pickups, each with a volume, followed by a single tone?

first: thank you very much @fig for the detailed answer !

good question: single tone, single volume, on both basses.

my setup in the more Jazz style bass is right now:
2 pickups ( ceramic, thin soapbar, single coil i´d guess) going into a active 3Band EQ,
with blend/Volume, Bass/Highs, mid EQ Freq/cut-boost
But i will replace that with a John East uni-pre3 + added a mid-pre for a total of 4 Bands, with two sweeping mids.
And i´ll might throw in a set of Nord Jazz Blades, or at least change the Neck pup to such.

My other Bass has allready that (semi-custom) East 4 band EQ, and two Nord Big Blades (single coil) installed. While both Basses have a active/passive switch. But i never use that.


I use a Arkham Oracle Tube pre, and am right now VERY happy with the sound of both Basses !
But i really need to dial in Bass plenty on the Oracle, to get a bassy enough sound at home thru headphones or studio speakers.
And i´m NOT happy enough with my sound, without any additional Bass boosting.
( in the meantime, i mostly i play the Neck pup at 100% blend /suits perfectly with the Oracle).

I´d think, both basses are a good plattform to test that series-parallel switching out

 

[Stan_da_man]

Quick question - I know Jazz basses are prone to humming when soloing either neck or bridge pups in parallel mode but what about series? Has soon as I engage series mode, I get the same type of humming - is this normal?

So here is a recording of my jazz bass.

The settings are:
Both pickups fully open
Neck pickup rolled back
Bridge pickup rolled back
Series mode activated
Series mode deactivated-back to both pups open

Tone pot is wide open the entire time.

Any ideas anyone?

 

[AndyPanda]

Any ideas anyone?

Whether you are series or parallel, you get the most hum cancelling (least hum) with both pickups on full. As soon as you roll back one of the pickups you start to hear the single coil hum and the hum becomes worst when one or the other pickup is fully off and you are only hearing one of the two single coil pickups. I'm talking about wiring series with blend capability -- since your question says "...as soon as I engage series mode...", I'm guessing you have a switch and no blend capability?

If you engage series mode and get hum then you may have the two pickups out of phase in your series wiring (or you are only getting one pickup - test with touching the pole pieces with something metallic and verify both pickups are on when you engage series).

EDIT: I just listened to your recording - I hear the hum come up as you roll off one pickup and hum go away when both pickups are on. That is normal. When I hear the pop of a switch, I assume that is you selecting series? I am not hearing the same hum - so maybe I'm not understanding your question or not understanding what part of your recording is what.

 

[mrperkolator]

the hot wire of the bridge pickup ----> into the ground wire of the Neck pup,
----> then hot wire of the Neck pup to the electronics ( plus ground wire from the bridge pup to the electronics).

Just curious, which series do you want to test? Series pickups, followed by a single tone and single volume? Or series pickups, each with a volume, followed by a single tone?

using the Dano drawings you had in post #67, wouldn't it be possible to use a dpdt switch to move the output of the bridge vol from wiper to the output of the neck (or jack hot)? I'd assume you'd have to move the negative of neck pickup to ground as well. Then you'd have VVTT with a series parallel

Also...what software are you using to draw the schematics?

 

[fig]

using the Dano drawings you had in post #67, wouldn't it be possible to use a dpdt switch to move the output of the bridge vol from wiper to the output of the neck (or jack hot)? I'd assume you'd have to move the negative of neck pickup to ground as well. Then you'd have VVTT with a series parallel

Also...what software are you using to draw the schematics?

The dpdt switch, wired as you suggested, will get us to parallel. But... it's the parallel that we all avoid wiring up. That's the one where the output from each pot is coming from the wiper arm, making each pot a Master Volume control for the whole circuit.:

I tried working the Dano into parallel for awhile. I think the best I could do was use a 4pdt switch. I'd really hoped you'd solved it with your idea of a dpdt switch. I'd have pooped myself laughing LOL. I stopped working on that a long time ago.

I use the program "Paint.NET" on a Windows 10 desktop comp. Paint.NET - Free Software for Digital Photo Editing
It's a free image and photo editing program I started using years ago making posters for bands I was in. Great for photo manipulation. Not very good at schematics so it takes awhile. There are faster dedicated programs for electronic schematics/diagrams. I'd suggest use those.

 

[mrperkolator]

The dpdt switch, wired as you suggested, will get us to parallel. But... it's the parallel that we all avoid wiring up. That's the one where the output from each pot is coming from the wiper arm, making each pot a Master Volume control for the whole circuit.

Looking at your "warning" version, If the inputs (positive leads) were routed to the wipers and the outputs routed to leave your "10" marker it should get rid of that master volume issue no? Basically swapping the inputs/outputs of potentiometers but not anything else

Edit: I'd draw that up but I'm much too tired, and I've used powerpoint in the past. It's also slow to draw stuff on.

 

[mrperkolator]

@fig this is what I meant (I used DIYLC... I'm still learning it). I used red for hot, black for neg. Check my work please!

Edit: Personally I'd make the DPDT switch opposite such that passive is down, series is up, but I'm tired and missed that.

 

[fig]

@mrperkolator The parallel mode now works, but the series mode doesn't.

I have to run for awhile. I changed the position of the switch from your recent post to Series. Makes signal tracing easier for my pea brain.:

Compare it to this simplified version of how a Dano circuit works.:

You probably see how the pots aren't operationally the same.

Yeah, this is like a pop quiz for now LOL.

 

[mrperkolator]

@mrperkolator The parallel mode now works, but the series mode doesn't.

I have to run for awhile. I changed the position of the switch from your recent post to Series. Makes signal tracing easier for my pea brain.:
View attachment 4873497

Compare it to this simplified version of how a Dano circuit works.:
View attachment 4873499

You probably see how the pots aren't operationally the same.

Yeah, this is like a pop quiz for now LOL.

I know the pots aren't operationally the same. That was to get rid of the master tone thing. Why wouldn't series work? I must be missing something. I couldn't figure out how to neatly move that neck ground away. It's supposed to be disconnected in series. When turning down the neck vol, it should short against itself.

 

[fig]

@mrperkolator
Disclaimer...If how I explain things sounds like it's talking down to you, maybe insulting your intelligence and experience, I don't mean it that way (I've been called out on it before LOL). I try and keep things at a simpler level for the many folk passing thru here who are still learning this stuff.

Starting with the Bridge/Pckp 1 pickup, here's how the Dano works.:

Your schematic isn't allowing the grounding of the Neck/Pckp 2 to happen. It's being blocked by the volume pot for the Bridge/Pckp 1.:

Moving to the Neck/Pckp 2 side, here's how a good Dano works.:

In your schematic, the path from the Brdg/Pckp 1 to the Jack isn't being allowed. Being blocked by the volume pot of Neck/Pckp 2.:

Back to the two Master controls again.

I really hope you, or one of the wiring masters in here, could find a way to series/parallel a Dano with a dpdt switch. Like I said, the best I could do was a 4pdt switch (rather uncommon). That's why I quit trying with the Dano and used the alternate series wiring, the Shunt wiring, for series/parallel VVTT (or Blend TT). The unwired ends of the two pots (each wired as a two-terminal attenuator) begged to be used for parallel LOL. Only needs a 3pdt switch (more common).

Shunt and Dano simplified (my simple mind likes simple drawings LOL):

 

[mrperkolator]

@mrperkolator
Disclaimer...If how I explain things sounds like it's talking down to you, maybe insulting your intelligence and experience, I don't mean it that way (I've been called out on it before LOL). I try and keep things at a simpler level for the many folk passing thru here who are still learning this stuff.

I really hope you, or one of the wiring masters in here, could find a way to series/parallel a Dano with a dpdt switch. Like I said, the best I could do was a 4pdt switch (rather uncommon). That's why I quit trying with the Dano and used the alternate series wiring, the Shunt wiring, for series/parallel VVTT (or Blend TT). The unwired ends of the two pots (each wired as a two-terminal attenuator) begged to be used for parallel LOL. Only needs a 3pdt switch (more common).

Shunt and Dano simplified (my simple mind likes simple drawings LOL):
View attachment 4874396

I didn't take any offense. Depending if I've drank my coffee yet I might need things dumbed down.

The shunt wiring looks quite a bit more flexible. I'm going to have to play with it later. Shunt looks like a great candidate for those that like bright bass since you *should* be able to use no-load pots to disconnect the pot from circuit.

Edit: BTW... thanks for making me think and catching stuff. It's been one of my better TB experiences.