Dittoi wish i could do that to my j
but i cant because i have no idea of how to do it properly
maybe someday...
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Dittoi wish i could do that to my j
but i cant because i have no idea of how to do it properly
maybe someday...
Not to mention, on ebay you can get twice as much for half the price as what you'd pay at Invalid Link Removed.
What I use, and what I recommend, is a 55 yard/50 meter roll of 1/2" tape, available for $12 from an American seller. It's true that you need to lay down four lengths of it to cover the same width that a piece of 2" tape will cover, but there aren't that many large surface areas for it to make a big difference. Plus, if you have wrestled with a piece of cut 2" tape, you know it can be unwieldy, and it doesn't always cooperate with you when you are trying to put it into place. Using 1/2" tape is a lot easier, and will actually cut the time spent shielding quite a bit.
They are, ofcourse. However, if I turn one of the pots down, I get a little hum. So changing pots was something on my list, but the setup in the OP sounds great: only one pot to turn volume down while blending with the other. I'd like that.I always considered my two volume knobs my blending devices.
fnord!
They are, ofcourse. However, if I turn one of the pots down, I get a little hum. So changing pots was something on my list, but the setup in the OP sounds great: only one pot to turn volume down while blending with the other. I'd like that.
What I do, and what I recommend, is solder the bridge ground wire right to the shielding. I ground everything in the signal chain at the jack. There's no advantage electronically doing it that way, it's just less messy, with fewer wires.In the OP, the pickup and bridge ground wires are attached to the ground lug while the pots use a common ground on the output jack. Is there a specific reason for this? Why not just use one common ground? I'm planning to shield my Jazz Bass and need some insights![]()
Alright, thanks! So basically, in a bass or guitar the star grounding technique doesn't have major advantages compared to standard grounding except for the tidy look, right?What I do, and what I recommend, is solder the bridge ground wire right to the shielding. I ground everything in the signal chain at the jack. There's no advantage electronically doing it that way, it's just less messy, with fewer wires.
I'm thinking of doing this type of shielding on my Fender Aerodyne MIJ jazz bass, with p/j pickups (vvt). On this bass, the control cavity is on the backside, the cover is made of plastic (not shielded). Anything special I have to consider?
If the preamp touches the preamp ilThanks again for your patience and explanation. I have everything connected at one point. The Bare aluminum pickup cavity ground. See it in the pic ? Its the one going under the peice of copper strip tape. The reason why you see 2 wire nuts, is because i was just extending the bridge ground, because it was too short.
Well on second look at the pic, I think I put the pickup ground with that to.
That might be the problem. I need to put both pickup grounds under that top wire nut. The top wire nut, is my main lug. Its going under the coper tape, so that , should ground everything.
Im pretty sure, that is epoxy sheilding paint in that controle cavity.
Im going to try moving that bottom pickup ground to the top wire nut, and see if that fixes it.
John East did say, dont use sheilding paint. Maybe He knows somethingI bet he does
I use the small batch $15 version of this. Best shielding paint ever. I also use a pipe cleaner with the shielding paint to coat the channels from cavity to cavity. I will never go back to copper shieldThis is what you want, one can does about 10 basses. A can runs me about $50 CDN from my local supply shop.
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Some other members have tried making their own conductive paint but it didn't go well. This stuff is also a major upgrade from the paint Stew-Mac sells.
If the preamp touches the preamp il
I use the small batch $15 version of this. Best shielding paint ever. I also use a pipe cleaner with the shielding paint to coat the channels from cavity to cavity. I will never go back to copper shield
was the $15 version 12ml? Was that really enough to do both pickup cavities and the control cavity?!If the preamp touches the preamp il
I use the small batch $15 version of this. Best shielding paint ever. I also use a pipe cleaner with the shielding paint to coat the channels from cavity to cavity. I will never go back to copper shield