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Just blew a cab for the first time

Hyuk hyuk.

Looks like my friend at the shop will be able to get me the actual Ampeg part for cost, as well as the head mounting hardware and speaker cable that were missing from the cab when I bought it.

Someone asked about the speaker cable I was using. Yes, it was a speaker cable. Brand new Fender Speak-On to 1/4" 5 or 6 foot cable.

Gonna keep this cab and handle it with kid gloves, and add another for gigging. Still weighing 115LF vs. the PF 4x10, and also considering the 2x12 AV. I lean toward the 115LF, as a companion to the 115HE. But the other two also intrigue me as possible one-cab gig rigs. I've played through 10's at practice spaces or when using other peoples amps at gigs. They have a character I kinda like, but I always felt they lacked something compared to my usual 15's. It's like they cut too much and feel too tight for me – kinda nice at times for sheer power, but not really "my tone." Then again, who's to say that what I have heard is actually the general difference between 10's and 15's, and not some other difference in rigs?

One thing about the 212AV: Its impedance will have my amp capable of making the whole 800W, for better or for worse.

Whatever it is, it needs to fit in the trunk of a Challenger (which is actually a decently sized trunk...but it's not an old Caddy trunk by any means).
 
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It has everything to do with power (watts).

30 watt amp into an 1100 watt (RMS) rated speaker is going to be VERY hard pressed to damage a woofer. This is a wager with very good odds in my favor!
The Rolls Mo2020 Testoscillator set to 20hz running into a 30 watt amp without a HPF may blow some 1100 watt rated speakers:
Rolls Corporation - Real Sound - Image - MO2020
 
Certainly, I also use D.C. For some specific force/displacement tests.

The Subway line included these kinds of tests, I believe 50 watts at 20Hz is what I used. This is a 400 watt RMS rated system, we provide and publish thermal and mechanical power handling specs.
 
They most surely chomp and chew (though there are no teeth present where the bit sits in the mouth)
:roflmao: Point made! The phrase as originally coined is "champing at the bit." Champing is "making a biting or chewing action with the jaws or teeth." Apparently horses do this before races as they're waiting for the gun/bell, and that's why the phrase came to be used to imply impatience. Like so many other phrases, this one has been "commonized" over the years, much like "proof is in the pudding."
(Okay--time for us to return to normalcy.)
 
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Ordered a PF-115LF and a PF-410HLF just now, and finalized the order for the new speaker for the PF-115HE. Wanted to strike while rebates are still good. Will try various combinations of these three cabs (obviously being more cautious this time), and see what's good for what. I wanted to try the 212AV too, but there's no rebate on that, so it can wait.
 
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Just set my PF-800 and PF-115HE to the same settings in #111 and lightly played a passive Fender Jazz through the rig for a quick test. It doesn't sound like it's being pushed all that much, but I'm not going to chance it:)

However, I can't get the red peak input light to go on at all with the gain set that low. Even with really heavy picking or popping/slapping (and setting the volume back to very low), I can't trip that light until the 'gain' is set just below 1 o'clock. If you're seeing the peak light start to go on with the gain at the setting shown in #111 with a passive bass (and the compressor at 10 o'clock and there's nothing else in your signal chain), then I'd say there's something wrong with that amp.
 
I ran a peavey 700 firebass into a 12" ev-sro to see if the head was working, volume at 1, gain at 1, everything else flat, speaker just laying on the magnet, blew the cone right out of it, flew up to my waist. Apparently some speakers don't get along with some amps. Recone kit, $76, speak on cables, $50, watching the action...priceless. Lol
 
Well, moving on to fixes:

How about some suggestions for a good way to get the amount of cleanliness, volume, and low end I want from this amp. I know it's in there, because I heard it the first time I played through the cab at lower volume (about noon on the master) with more lows dialed in. The tone was great; the volume didn't cut it. I just need the right cab/s to let it out. I will get this little guy fixed up for lower intensity situations, or maybe use my friend's PF-350 through it, and find a better cab for gigs.

I'd love it if the solution was within the Portaflex line, but I could be open to something outside the line. That Ampeg 2x12 does look tempting (almost bought it initially instead of the PF-115HE). The 4x10 Portaflex cab would probably be my next trial. Hope it fits in a Challenger. That is a consideration for me. Would love it to be flip top, but I guess that ain't in the cards with the PF-800.

I bought the same head with a couple cabs used, but in like new condition. It came with a PF-115HE and a PF-210HE. After a year or two the 115 seemed to start farting every once in a while when tuning drop D and hitting that open string hard. Was it the use over time or that particular tuning? I dunno. Whatever the case, I ended up buying a PF-410HLF and I like that much better. Seems to handle the lows better and it straight up puts out a bassier tone with all the same levels on the head than with the pair. I do miss the flip top, but the benefits outweigh that feature. My only complaint...the casters on the PF cabs kind of suck, and with the heavier 410, you kind of need to use the casters when possible. I've had to replace two of the stem sockets already (good thing I bought a set of 4 when replacing the first)...and the stock casters themselves are kind of crap. I bought some bigger wheel casters, which functionally are superior, but they tend to hit the rubber bumpers on the bottom when turning, which is annoying.
 
Just set my PF-800 and PF-115HE to the same settings in #111 and lightly played a passive Fender Jazz through the rig for a quick test. It doesn't sound like it's being pushed all that much, but I'm not going to chance it:)

However, I can't get the red peak input light to go on at all with the gain set that low. Even with really heavy picking or popping/slapping (and setting the volume back to very low), I can't trip that light until the 'gain' is set just below 1 o'clock. If you're seeing the peak light start to go on with the gain at the setting shown in #111 with a passive bass (and the compressor at 10 o'clock and there's nothing else in your signal chain), then I'd say there's something wrong with that amp.

1 o'clock with heavy picking? That sounds very weird, unless you have the input pad engaged. I tripped it no problem with fingers when set below 9 o'clock. Same on my B-100R. Gain has to be set extremely low or else the light comes on (not that I avoid the light in the slightest on that amp).
 
If you push an amp into severe clipping you end up with very close to a DC level voltage into the speaker which can toast a speaker pretty fast. I fried one Electrovoice EVM15B in a two-speaker cab. The amp was a 1970s GK 400B with 250 watts.

I put a sine wave into the amp with a dummy load and checked it with a scope.It clipped severely with beautiful square waves at high output.
 
If you push an amp into severe clipping you end up with very close to a DC level voltage into the speaker which can toast a speaker pretty fast. I fried one Electrovoice EVM15B in a two-speaker cab. The amp was a 1970s GK 400B with 250 watts.

I put a sine wave into the amp with a dummy load and checked it with a scope.It clipped severely with beautiful square waves at high output.
How you got a sine wave from a dummy load, I'll never know.

I shot an elephant in my pajamas.
How he got in my pajamas, I'll never know.
:roflmao:

Seriously, are saying the speaker was fried by DC, or by exceeding the power rating of the voice coil?