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Just checking...

I really did look through the old posts. I just want to make 100% sure.
I have an Ampeg Micro VR and two 210 AVs.

Should I:
1. Run a cable from the amp to cab A, and another cable from cab A to cab B
2. Run a cable from the amp to cab A, and another cable from the amp to cab B
3. It doesn't matter

Be kind.
 
From what I recall of those components it should not matter. The two outputs on head are parallel and the two input jacks on the speakers are parallel as well - net result is that either way you wire it up your head will see a nominal 4 Ohm load and IIRC it is rated for 200 Watts at 4 Ohms. Bottom line is that either way will work fine.
 
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Thanks to all. That's what I thought I read, but I wanted to be sure.
As an aside, although it doesn't really matter in this situation, I usually go from my head to each cabinet. My thinking is that the source signal I pull directly from the outputs on the head means that I have more connector contact area per speaker and am running less current through those contacts and cables. I would see this as more significant with 1/4 inch than Speakon connections and of less concern in the 100- 200 Watt range with short length 12, 14 or 16 AWG speaker cables.

My guess is that most electrical engineers would say it is of little to no significance in your application. I just tend to over-design a bit.
 
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As an aside, although it doesn't really matter in this situation, I usually go from my head to each cabinet. My thinking is that the source signal I pull directly from the outputs on the head means that I have more connector contact area per speaker and am running less current through those contacts and cables. I would see this as more significant with 1/4 inch than Speakon connections and of less concern in the 100- 200 Watt range with short length 12, 14 or 16 AWG speaker cables.

My guess is that most electrical engineers would say it is of little to no significance in your application. I just tend to over-design a bit.
The other advantage of amp to cab A and amp to cab B, is that if a connection or cable goes bad on one, then the other still works. If you daisy chain speakers and the amp to cab A connection goes bad, you lose it all.
 
1. Run a cable from the amp to cab A, and another cable from cab A to cab B
2. Run a cable from the amp to cab A, and another cable from the amp to cab B
Just because you used the word cable I want to make sure that you are using a Speaker Cable and NOT a shielded instrument cable.
Yes they are different, on the inside.
 
S-Bigbottom, post: 18865709, member: 269793"]Just because you used the word cable I want to make sure that you are using a Speaker Cable and NOT a shielded instrument cable.
Yes they are different, on the inside.[/QUOTE]

Absolutely you want the large conductor type.
image.jpeg
 
Paging @JimmyM .

OP, what is the serial or date code on your amp. There was at some point a few that came from the factory that didn't like two 210AV's for some mysterious reason. Worked fine into any other 4 ohm setup. If yours is a later one, probably not an issue.
 
As an aside, although it doesn't really matter in this situation, I usually go from my head to each cabinet. My thinking is that the source signal I pull directly from the outputs on the head means that I have more connector contact area per speaker and am running less current through those contacts and cables. I would see this as more significant with 1/4 inch than Speakon connections and of less concern in the 100- 200 Watt range with short length 12, 14 or 16 AWG speaker cables.

My guess is that most electrical engineers would say it is of little to no significance in your application. I just tend to over-design a bit.

Provided both speaker cables are the same length. :)
 
even
Provided both speaker cables are the same length. :)
I try to keep my cable lengths the same because I'm a bit OC about that kind of stuff, but realistically given that (to the best of my knowledge) signals travel though wires fast enough to be most easily represented as a % of the speed of light, I'm guessing that a 100 feet versus a foot of cable would barely be detectable using sensitive instrumentation.

As always, I stand ready to hear the electrical engineers and physicists share why that may not always be a good assumption with speaker cables.
 
I try to keep my cable lengths the same because I'm a bit OC about that kind of stuff,

As am I -- good to meet another. :thumbsup:

but realistically given that (to the best of my knowledge) signals travel though wires fast enough to be most easily represented as a % of the speed of light, I'm guessing that a 100 feet versus a foot of cable would barely be detectable using sensitive instrumentation.

As always, I stand ready to hear the electrical engineers and physicists share why that may not always be a good assumption with speaker cables.

I'm not an engineer, altho I have a diploma in Electronic Engineering, what Americans generously call an Ass. degree.

Over the decades I've seen players get away with all kinds of stuff -- not merely different length, also different types, as in a shielded instrument cable of one length and a speaker cable of another length, without difficulty. Makes me respect the amp manufacturers.
 
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Over the decades I've seen players get away with all kinds of stuff -- not merely different length, also different types, as in a shielded instrument cable of one length and a speaker cable of another length, without difficulty. Makes me respect the amp manufacturers.
It is amazing how many different ways there are to do something really stupid that amp designers have anticipated and protected us against. As an engineer I find the biggest challenge in design is ensuring that "what people will actually/likely do" with what you give them won't result in instant failure, injury or loss of life. Designing for resiliency, durability and safe operation often has less to do with the intended use of the item or system than it does with imagining what might happen in a less than ideal world.
 
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