Kala UBass Megathread, Part 7

[Starthief]

OK, I was able to stretch the string and get it off the tuner.

Even with no tension on it the tuner doesn't want to turn very far in either direction. It wobbles in the headstock and there's a gap like the nut needs to be tightened. But the base of the spool on the pin (if that's what it's called?) seems like it's in the way of tightening the nut. I guess I need to remove the screw through the gear in the back to remove the pin, check for damage and tighten the nut?

Also the little screw that holds the tuner on the back doesn't seem to be holding it very solidly.

 

[KohanMike]

OK, I was able to stretch the string and get it off the tuner. Even with no tension on it the tuner doesn't want to turn very far in either direction. It wobbles in the headstock and there's a gap like the nut needs to be tightened. But the base of the spool on the pin (if that's what it's called?) seems like it's in the way of tightening the nut. I guess I need to remove the screw through the gear in the back to remove the pin, check for damage and tighten the nut? Also the little screw that holds the tuner on the back doesn't seem to be holding it very solidly.

I would remove the tuner completely, first remove the screw for the spool, which will also release the gear (which has different sides and might be your problem, the gear could have been installed the wrong way), remove the gear and spool, then from the top of the head, unscrew and remove the nut retainer, then remove the little screw on the back and remove the holder piece. Fill the little hole with a toothpick or such. To put it all back together, be careful that the gear is facing the correct way, there is a cutout rim around one side that should be facing so the screw goes into the spool from that side.

 

[Starthief]

New problem: the screw for the spool was probably over-tightened and the head is stripping. Of all the different Philips screwdrivers I have, none of them will turn it but all of them will damage the top of the screw.

I have a pair of Vampliers which can work wonders for removing ruined screws... if it can get to them. But since the screw head is in a recess in the gear, there's no way for them to do that. The only thing I can think of is to carefully drill the screw out and remove it that way.

mgbguitars.com has a set of all 4 tuners for $15, so that's not too painful a replacement cost if I have to do that.

 

[mrperkolator]

New problem: the screw for the spool was probably over-tightened and the head is stripping. Of all the different Philips screwdrivers I have, none of them will turn it but all of them will damage the top of the screw.

I have a pair of Vampliers which can work wonders for removing ruined screws... if it can get to them. But since the screw head is in a recess in the gear, there's no way for them to do that. The only thing I can think of is to carefully drill the screw out and remove it that way.

mgbguitars.com has a set of all 4 tuners for $15, so that's not too painful a replacement cost if I have to do that.

put a rubber band between your screwdriver and the screw. I haven't tried that on guitars, but I've done it on stripped screws elsewhere. Rubber gives extra pressure to get it turning.

 

[Starthief]

I'll give the rubberband a try. I had no luck with it on studio rack screws that were stripped, but it's worth a try for this.

 

[mrperkolator]

I'll give the rubberband a try. I had no luck with it on studio rack screws that were stripped, but it's worth a try for this.

Yeah it doesn't work every time. But if it's not stripped to bad, it sometimes gives just enough grip.

 

[Starthief]

OK, problems fixed and my Hadean is back in business! I did have to drill out the screw, but once that was done, it went easily. I didn't have to patch the tiny screw hole that keeps the tuner aligned, since the new screw was slightly bigger and longer. I replaced only the D tuner, leaving the others alone -- it's not a 100% identical match but you'd have to look very closely to tell.

This time I didn't follow Aquila's instructions for stringing it exactly. I tucked the loose end under without wrapping it over first, and that helped considerably. Better to cut off the excess than wrap it around the post.

About the Thunderbrowns themselves: to me the tone is very similar to the Thunderblack. While I don't have a direct comparison, I feel like the sustain might be just slightly less, but that I'm getting more fretless mwah (which I like). I didn't notice a big increase in acoustic volume like the website seems to suggest.

The feel is more textured, kind of "sandy" -- not too coarse or grippy, smoother than rounds generally but less smooth than flats. I feel like they will probably resist getting sticky. They are more matte in appearance than the Thunderblack -- I wondered if there'd be a subtle sparkle from the copper dust but you have to look very closely for that.

Overall: if you like rubbery strings in general but chose Pahoehoe over Thunderguts/Thunderblack because of the stickiness factor, Thunderbrown might make you happy. If you want something more like "normal" bass strings these are not them, and I'd recommend the Gallistrings flats that Kala sells instead.

For me personally, I'm not sure it was worth the upgrade (especially factoring in replacing a tuner!) but I'd have remained curious if I hadn't tried it. And maybe I'd have started disliking the Thunderblacks once summer comes around and brings increased humidity, hard to tell.

 

[UbassDanno]

mgbguitars.com has a set of all 4 tuners for $15, so that's not too painful a replacement cost if I have to do that.

WOW! Let us know how they work out if you get them. That's an amazing price, especially considering Hipshots are $20 each. I have a set I took off my Kala (no brand), there's nothing wrong with them, I just wanted to have Hipshots. Was hoping to get $40 for the set, but If you want, make me an offer.

 

[Starthief]

WOW! Let us know how they work out if you get them. That's an amazing price, especially considering Hipshots are $20 each.

I did get them, and they're decent -- maybe slightly better quality than the ones that were on the Hadean. The outer radius of the tube/nut part is just a little bit wider, but the threads are the same, so I used the old tube/nut instead of widening the hole.

U-Bass Tuner Set of four

 

[Jhalb]

selling my hard shell case in the classified section.

 

[dab12ax7ef]

New product out today from Kala!

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[mmbass21]

Long time UBass owner here. I just put Galli nylon wounds on and just brought amazing new life to the instrument for me. It has me now wanting a model with a cutaway to utilize the upper fret access that is impossible on mine.

I'm curious if anyone here has info comparing the different preamps. Mine has the shadow which is fine for me on this one. I'm wondering about the UBass Active Eq, UK-500B, and the Fishman. Although I don't think the Fishman is on any of the cutaway models. I appreciate any insight.

 

[Jhalb]

selling my hard shell case in the classified section.

Sold

 

[HaphAsSard]

I just put Galli nylon wounds on and just brought amazing new life to the instrument for me.

What's the texture like on the Galli UXB810? I haven't seen a good picture of them. The outer wrap is a black nylon round-section filament, as opposed to a flat tape, correct?

 

[mmbass21]

What's the texture like on the Galli UXB810? I haven't seen a good picture of them. The outer wrap is a black nylon round-section filament, as opposed to a flat tape, correct?

I'd say the texture reminds me of something like a half round string. Not as smooth as flats but you can slide around easily without the string swishing noise. More tension than the pahoehoe's I had on but I'd say less than rounds or flats. They're still stretching in but it'll stay in tune for a song after about 18hrs being on the bass.

I wanted to try the Galli flats but over $50 for strings on a bass that isn't my main player doesn't make sense in my head. Glad I went with these, sounds incredible acoustically and amplified.

 

[KohanMike]

What's the texture like on the Galli UXB810? I haven't seen a good picture of them. The outer wrap is a black nylon round-section filament, as opposed to a flat tape, correct?

When I tried a set, I thought they still made too much zing noise. To me they're simply round wound with a black color, not at all like tape wounds. I prefer the Kala/Galli true flatwound no matter the price.

 

[HaphAsSard]

When I tried a set, I thought they still made too much zing noise. To me they're simply round wound with a black color, not at all like tape wounds. I prefer the Kala/Galli true flatwound no matter the price.

Thanks sir. Speaking of flatwounds, are the Pyramid custom-length flats (that you recently got) nylon-core like the Galli/Kala, or steel-core like the La Bella/Gold Tone? Is the Pyramid order intended to replace either, because of length/fitment problems, or just as an experiment/exploration into alternative sources?

 

[mmbass21]

When I tried a set, I thought they still made too much zing noise. To me they're simply round wound with a black color, not at all like tape wounds. I prefer the Kala/Galli true flatwound no matter the price.

I agree nothing like tapes and would also say they're not quite like rounds in the sense that there's nothing metal in these. Again the surface of them feel like half rounds to me from my experience with them on another bass I own. I tend to keep the tone around 9-11 o'clock on the shadow preamp so it's nice and thumpy with decent mid cutting through so far. If I turn the tone halfway or more it's too zingy. I will try the flats one day, I got these at half the price and happy so far.

 

[KohanMike]

Thanks sir. Speaking of flatwounds, are the Pyramid custom-length flats (that you recently got) nylon-core like the Galli/Kala, or steel-core like the La Bella/Gold Tone? Is the Pyramid order intended to replace either, because of length/fitment problems, or just as an experiment/exploration into alternative sources?

The Pyramids are all metal. I wanted custom 24" to fit my 24" scale Hadean solid body bass ukes, and also liked that I could ask to not add silk.

I agree nothing like tapes and would also say they're not quite like rounds in the sense that there's nothing metal in these. Again the surface of them feel like half rounds to me from my experience with them on another bass I own. I tend to keep the tone around 9-11 o'clock on the shadow preamp so it's nice and thumpy with decent mid cutting through so far. If I turn the tone halfway or more it's too zingy. I will try the flats one day, I got these at half the price and happy so far.

From what I understand, they're nylon core and metal round wound with a black coating.

 

[HaphAsSard]

From what I understand, they're nylon core and metal round wound with a black coating.

The verbiage in the product pages, both English and Italian, clarifies the outer winding itself is black nylon, not a coating. This does not rule out an intermediate metal winding being there, which is possible.
[I've seen a picture - or was it a video still? - of the long-scale, synthetic-core flatwounds Galli makes and a round underwinding peeks out from the gaps in the flat ribbon at the tuning post (which explains why they, and the ukulele-bass counterpart, works with magnetic pickups: it is both the ribbon and the inner layer(s) that together make enough metal mass to get picked up). There definitely might be one inside the blacks as well.]