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Double Bass Kay Fingerboard Shim Install

JBarz

Supporting Member
Mar 6, 2015
1,970
3,272
I’ve decided to put a 1/4” Purple Heart shim under the fingerboard of my ‘55 Kay five-string so it matches the feel of my other necks.

I’ve never done this before, but don’t anticipate any problems (fingers crossed!). One quick question, though - do you fellas advise routeing a shallow “escape trench” down the center of the neck and/or shim for glue overflow?

Also, regarding optionally installing carbon fiber rods at this stage - is it generally considered a prophylactic measure to protect against warping and breaking or is there a tonal advantage?

Thanks gang!
 
Ebony shims for ebony fingerboards. rosewood shims for rosewood fingerboards. A "B" grade ebony / rosewood guitar fingerboard works perfect and can be had for approx $25. or less, often half. If done well, the shim will be invisible. Retrogrouches don't like bright purple racing stripes down the side of the neck unless they came that way from the factory.

Your five string neck will never feel exactly like your other 4 string basses, regardless of what you do to it. You can adapt a thicker feel or have a different profile. The S series 5 string necks often feel a liitle bit thicker; I like them for four string conversions.

There are 100 threads about installing carbon fiber; read them! Old Kay necks generally suck from day one for a half dozen reasons. For me, if the fingerboard is off, I always add it.

It is February; make sure both the figerboard and neck are warmed up or your hot glue will gel on the cold wood surface. 'Same thing with your glue brush.

I never make a glue channel; I never use a toothed blade on the surface. YMMV
 
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My David Gage shim on my American Standard…
 
Retrogrouches don’t like purple racing stripes?!?! Even on a blonde?!?!

I’m loosing steam on this project TBH. I fouled another stupid adjuster pickup install on this Kay that I just cut a new perfect Dispeau bridge for because I reeeeeaaaaallly wanted a Yamahiko in there. Stupid hubris always bites me in the butt. My DIY luthier hat is getting worn out and I’m about to throw that joker in the gosh darn trash. It’s all sunshine and rainbows when doing it yourself works out, but eventually you always gotta pay the messing stuff up tax.

I figured since I have to recut the bridge anyway (I’m not installing anymore adjusters myself ever again, freakin dummy…) I figured I might as well add a shim to silver-line this otherwise crappy situation. My other basses all have a neck exactly 1/4” thicker.

This is all ultimately in efforts to make this ‘55 Kay 5 string sound/feel as good as that ‘55 King Mortone four string you shortened the neck on, James. I’m wondering if that carbon you put in isn’t part of the magic to how responsive that instrument is.

Had a good gig last night (on the King, dialed in soooo nicely) and like I say, I’m feeling kind of burnt out on fiddle faddling with this luthier stuff and just want to focus on playing.

I put the Kay in the upstairs of the barn so I just forget about it until I know what I want to do with it.

James, maybe this is a good opportunity for me to trade you this heavy leather bag if you’re up for sprinkling some magic dust on this one.
 
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This is all ultimately in efforts to make this ‘55 Kay 5 string sound/feel as good as that ‘55 King Mortone four string you shortened the neck on, James. I’m wondering if that carbon you put in isn’t part of the magic to how responsive that instrument is.
I have a feeling that a Kay isn't likely to sound as good as a King Mortone no matter what you do to it. But props to you for making the effort!
 
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You might be right, but the Kay seems pretty high quality except maybe the traditional low overstand dealio. I don’t ask much of a ply bass except that it amplify well. The King just has a whole quick response articulative nuance thing that no other bass I’ve played does, though. I have the sneaking suspicion that maybe part of what is at play is a 4 string vs 5 string thing. Traeger says something in his book about how the wider the distance of the strings, the stiffer the bass feels and that’s why five strings always are a drag. But like you say - it’s worth a try. From what I understand, I think these 5 string Kays are a bit more difficult to sell/buy than their four string counterparts and I’ll never get the money I want out of it so I’m pretty much stuck with it. I like it, though - I’m an 5 string player for better or worse and personally think purple racing stripes are pretty dang cool.
 
I’ve decided to put a 1/4” Purple Heart shim under the fingerboard of my ‘55 Kay five-string so it matches the feel of my other necks.

I’ve never done this before, but don’t anticipate any problems…

If you need someone to hold your beer, ping me. 🤣



















J/K good luck! I’m too inept to even think about doing something like that.
 
Yeah, I’m going to think long and hard about my goals and ambitions before I take this operation on. It’ll be a great project next time I get the itch to get lost in something, but as it stands it’s out of sight/mind on the far back burner for now.
 
My workshop is a (climate controlled) finished old two story barn. Upstairs is typically reserved for the wife’s yoga practice.

Coincidentally I pulled it out today and it’s sitting with the fingerboard at 100C under the heat pad, trying to loosen the glue
 
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I have been sitting on this piece of Purple Heart for a while, but I keep thinking about using it for this project. Got some 4mm CF square rods. Fingerboard is letting me get a razor blade under it still sitting under the heat pad, now 120C. Slow process…

Played the gig on my carved five string with a loud drummer last night and did not like how it amplified high volumes compared to my ply King. I think I maybe just prefer plywood basses - and I’m ok with that!
 
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My workshop is a (climate controlled) finished old two story barn. Upstairs is typically reserved for the wife’s yoga practice.
nice!
Fingerboard is letting me get a razor blade under it still sitting under the heat pad, now 120C. Slow process…
(knowing next to nothing about the process myself) i watched a video where they removed an upright board by methodically wicking alcohol into the seam to i guess weaken the hide glue, i don’t think they even used heat
 
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Got the fingerboard off clean and easy enough.
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Having second thoughts about routing in the 4mm squared carbon though. If I’m being totally honest, it doesn’t seem necessary at all. After I install 1/4” shim, I can’t imagine it’d be easy to break this neck that’s survived 70+ years already. It seems plenty rigid… Thoughts?

Furthermore, my color wheel theory instincts tell me that the purple + yellow maybe isn’t such a winning combination, lol… I either absolutely love it or totally hate it and can’t quite decide.
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... Having second thoughts about routing in the 4mm squared carbon though. ...
Tough decision. You know though, if you don't install the CF and the neck warps, you'll always wish you had. On the other hand, you can do it all again later and install the CF then if needed, but a warped neck is more work to fix.

... my color wheel theory instincts tell me that the purple + yellow ...
That is why we have aniline dye. :D
 
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