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Double Bass Kay neck joint question

I know that there's a lot of air space in Kay and Engelhardt neck joints, but how much is common? I've never had one open before today.

The '80 Engelhardt I brought home today has a good 1/4" gap between the neck and the top of the block. I can't say I'm surprised it failed as dramatically as it did.
 
Kay's and englel's have a dovetail at the neck block right? I just restored an old Czech/German bass with dovetailed neck mortise... There had been nearly a 1/4 inch of space near the button between the neck and block going down to about a 1/16 inch of gap near the top. It shimmed nice and easy though.
 
The block is not cracked but some of the wood sheared off during whatever disaster befell it. I've got the bolt and most of the wood glue out and hoping I have enough useable surface left for a good glue surface after I get everything cleaned up and shimmed.

Some people should not be allowed to own tools.
 
It is only a couple of hours bench time, max, for a mortise conversion (if you are setup and have a plan). The great thing about that is you are only another couple of hours away from a bolt on / removable neck conversion!

Almost everyone agrees that Kay neck joints are the weak spot. If they had made that one change to the design, they would have a whole different reputation and there would be 30,000 more around with unbroken necks.

J.
Www.condino.com
Www.kaybassrepair.com
 
Well, they could certainly improve other neck issues such as a fingerboard that has too flat a radius, a neck that is too thin, and of course the over stand which is usually corrected w. the neck set. I would love to see an American company that would crank out reasonably priced laminated basses that could compete w. the asian market quality wise, but sadly Engel who is really set up to do this will not budge on this.... My $.02....
 
I reset a Mortone neck a few years ago that came out well but as sloppy as that mortise and tenon were cut it was much better than this bass. Good point on redoing the entire joint. I considered doing that on the King but it didn't end up needing it. The block damage this bass has may force me to do what Jake is doing to avoid replacing the block.
 
Well, they could certainly improve other neck issues such as a fingerboard that has too flat a radius, a neck that is too thin, and of course the over stand which is usually corrected w. the neck set.... My $.02....

I 'd also add making the internal blocks out of Tulip poplar and Douglas fir is a major weak spot. I can work around those and the other issues, but in my market, any history of a broken heel drops the street value by 1/4 - 1/3 price. About 50% of the people won't even consider it, regardless of price, but I've got a pretty serious Kay nerd clientbase and there are almost as many old Kays here as there are old VWs in Eugene, so a buyer can be picky...

j.
www.condino.com
www.kaybassrepair.com
 
And how about the inconsistency of the bass bar placement and fit. I saw your post on the 51' Kay and the nice re-fit and canvas patch you did on that bass bar... Had to do the same on the detached bar on my 71' Engel.... I guess point being there is room for improvement and if you look at modern basses compared to lets say shop basses from 60 -100 years ago there have been improvements particularly in neck design to accommodate steel strings, access to more of the fingerboard, string length consistency, sound, etc. I think this has helped raise the level of bass playing in general....