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LMI truss rod issue

#6
This may sound like a jerky comment, but - did you use the right allen wrench?

I don't know what size they ship with, but none of my "normal" allen wrenches will fit the LMII rod. 5/32" is too large, and 9/64" is just slightly too small. Likewise, 4mm is too large, and 3mm is too small. Maybe they ship with 3.5mm? Anyway, I have used several of these rods, and each one ships with a wrench, so I have several wrenches lying about...
 
#8
I used TB 1 to glue it on. it is a thick flat radius Ebony FB a 6 string 18mm spacing 1 piece Black Limba. I can't imagine I can get the FB off without a mess. Yes the socket and the Allen wrenches they ship do seem to have a little play to them. I am now using my last one. I may need to look for another supplier. Guess I will start a new thread asking what truss rods other full time builders are using.

Thanks all!
 
#9
I take it this is a glued on fretboard? Like I said, as long as you didn't use epoxy or some other permanent type of glue you should be able to warm up the glue with a blow dryer or an iron and remove the fretboard. Pretty standard repair. Drop in a new one (maybe test it first) sand your surfaces again and glue it on up.
 
#13
Tom,
You could strategically plan for this too, perhaps slotting the rod end, in a way so that the rod could slip out and a small wedge of wood, to hold it in place on the open side, then could be chiseled out, if this ever happened again (That way there's no need to remove the fretboard). I know probably not exactly what you might want to hear right now, but could be helpful in the future. I know I've taken this precaution.
 
#15
I have had good luck with the Bestbassgear.com and Grizzly.com rods. (though I don't have near the sample size as you with the LMII rods)

They are both less expensive than LMII also.
 
#16
Despite having made a fair amount of basses I haven't had to remove a FB before so thanks for the help all. How in the heck are you doing it. I so far have managed to chip mine. How long do you let the iron sit on the FB before you start trying to remove it?
 

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#17
tjclem said:
Despite having made a fair amount of basses I haven't had to remove a FB before so thanks for the help all. How in the heck are you doing it. I so far have managed to chip mine. How long do you let the iron sit on the FB before you start trying to remove it?
Click to expand...

I've yet to do one myself (well actually, I did rip the board off a B.C. Rich.... without an iron....) but one thing I've heard more than once is DO NOT PRY the board off, gently use whatever specialty luthiery wedge you have (maybe a thin knife) by pressing it in gently as you go. Don't lift. Eventually you'll get it, It's worth the work. At the very worst you'll just have to do a little bit more sanding than you expected. Actually what would be worse than that is snapping the fretboard, but as long as you're patient, that shouldn't happen.
 
#19
A lot of people making acoustic guitars swear by the Allied Lutherie truss rods. They look like the LMI and others but work slightly differently. Instead of a left-hand thread at one end and a right-hand thread at the other, they have two right-hand threads, one coarse and one fine which makes for much finer adjustment. They are also made of stainless steel. the only drawback could be that their bass guitar model isn't as long as some others.

Edit. Forgot to add the link.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
#20
Tom, removing a fretboard with an iron is pretty straightforward. 6ou have to work with it usually at medium high, and using a thin metal spacklng knife, a razor scraper, whatever you decide to use, and start working one end or the other, once you get the initial separation, you slowly move the iron and the blade to separate the board.
 

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