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Making Cables?

F

funkysurfer

Apr 20, 2000
258
4
53
Coconut Creek, FL
www.myspace.com
#1
The Canare GS-6 seem to be the cats meow around here so I am willing to try building them. I was able to find the cable at $.85 a foot.

I really don't know anything about building them and imagine it's simply cutting, stripping & soldering. Yes/No?

I would also like to know where to buy great connectors. I read many posts and Nuetriks are popping up everywhere. Are these the ones to go with & where can I find them?

This will be the first time building so any and all info is welcome.

Thanks,
Shawn
 
#5
To answer your first question, yes, it is straightforward. Use good materials and good assembly technique and you will build a cable that outperforms and outlasts what you buy over the counter. I've built them for a load of folks here and on the old DudePit and between me and people like Butch over at Bayou there are a lot of folks who have firsthand experience with hand assembled cables using Canare or Mogami cable and Neutrik, Switchcraft, or G&H... connectors.

The trick is to not damage the braid. This means removing the outer jacket without nicking the braid, and then serving the center conductor through the braid with minimal damage to either. Do that and you have the basis for a rock solid connection to the connector, both physical and electrical.

I use a utility knife to score the jacket (start by removing about an inch), then I use a pointy solder probe to open up the side of the braid just above where the jacket ends. Push the strands apart to make a smooth hole that is about th width of the center conductor insulation. Now kink the center conductor so the hump is exposed through the hole and use the pointy probe (spudger) to open the braid up a little more. Now you should be able to get the spudger under the center conductor and pull it through the hole in the braid. VIOLA! Be sure to strip the black covering from the center conductor insulation. Just the lightest pressure with the blade of a utility knife will score it without damaging the underlying insulation.

Use clamps to hold the connector and cable in position while you orient everything and solder. I also use a mini hemostat to hold the braid in position. That stabilizes the assembly and makes for rock solid contact between the braid and the sleeve connection. That is the same whether it is a monster Neutrik NP2RC or a Switchcraft. The idea is to have the wire making solid contact with the plug during assembly and not have anything moving around.

Enjoy. Chris at Redco has been a great help to me in getting the right parts and supplies, and they make great assemblies as well. Markertek out of NY has also been an excellent resource, but they have minimum shipping fees and can cost a little more depending on where you are and the size of the order.
 
#6
fretlessrock said:
I use a utility knife to score the jacket (start by removing about an inch), then I use a pointy solder probe to open up the side of the braid just above where the jacket ends. Push the strands apart to make a smooth hole that is about th width of the center conductor insulation. Now kink the center conductor so the hump is exposed through the hole and use the pointy probe (spudger) to open the braid up a little more. Now you should be able to get the spudger under the center conductor and pull it through the hole in the braid. VIOLA! Be sure to strip the black covering from the center conductor insulation. Just the lightest pressure with the blade of a utility knife will score it without damaging the underlying insulation.

Use clamps to hold the connector and cable in position while you orient everything and solder. I also use a mini hemostat to hold the braid in position. That stabilizes the assembly and makes for rock solid contact between the braid and the sleeve connection. That is the same whether it is a monster Neutrik NP2RC or a Switchcraft. The idea is to have the wire making solid contact with the plug during assembly and not have anything moving around.
Click to expand...

Fretlessrock,

Thank you for the info. Everything that you said makes sense. I am definitely going to give this a go and I'll chime in once I have all the materials.

I almost bought into the "Monster" hype. Not saying they're bad or anything because I have no experience with them. However, I am all for DIY.

As far as connectors go, could you recommend me something speciific? I am also willing to try more than one option.

I do plan on ordering from redco but they're is quite a variety in the connector category.

Thanks again!
Shawn
 
#7
funkysurfer said:
I almost bought into the "Monster" hype. Not saying they're bad or anything because I have no experience with them. However, I am all for DIY.
Click to expand...
The guitar player in my band has a monster and we practice/record at his house. He swears it sounds better on the bass than a normal cable. I've told him about the coathanger test but he's not convinced, probably because he spent a lot of money on it haha... I humor him and use it when I'm there, it sounds the same to me though.
 
#9
funkysurfer said:
Fretlessrock,

Thank you for the info. Everything that you said makes sense. I am definitely going to give this a go and I'll chime in once I have all the materials.

I almost bought into the "Monster" hype. Not saying they're bad or anything because I have no experience with them. However, I am all for DIY.

As far as connectors go, could you recommend me something speciific? I am also willing to try more than one option.

I do plan on ordering from redco but they're is quite a variety in the connector category.

Thanks again!
Shawn
Click to expand...

The Neutrik 1/4" plugs are worth every penny. At the Redco site look under connectors, then TS connectors. If I was ordering now I would not hesitate to order the NP2X, and if you want a right-angle plug then get matching NP2RX plugs. I recently used the new NP3RX TRS plugs for the first time and they are great.

I used to order the NP2C and the NP2RC plugs. The NP2RC plugs are no longer in production, but they are totally bombproof. The downside is that they shell is oversize and it can make effect and pedalboard wiring impossible. I still have a good supply of both so I'm not ordering new parts too often.

I'll use a smaller connector if I am making something like pedalboard interconnects with Canare GS4 mini cable and want to keep the connector weight/mass down. The G&H and Switchcraft plugs are good, so I'm not knocking them. Also, Neutrik makes a line of less expensive connectors that are designed in the Switchcraft style (metal screw shell, crimp-type clamp). My preference for Neutrik is the way the cable clamp works. Once assembled it works to keep the strain totally off of the solder joints, and that means that it will take a cymbal cut to knock the cable out of commission. And the Canare cable is tough stuff so even that might not do it.

I've always been a DIY kind of person so I'd rather make something myself if possible. I've used plenty of commercial cables and some of them were good, but I get total reliability and great audio out of a cable that I can custom build in no time at all. I'll take that over a "lifetime guarantee". Again, I'm not bashing anyone's cable choice, but explaining why I have stuck with mine.
 
#10
hunta said:
The guitar player in my band has a monster and we practice/record at his house. He swears it sounds better on the bass than a normal cable. I've told him about the coathanger test but he's not convinced, probably because he spent a lot of money on it haha... I humor him and use it when I'm there, it sounds the same to me though.
Click to expand...

I would say avoid Monster cables they are a tight connection because they use a oversized connector. That ends up over bending jacks in instruments. I've had to replace mine in my Zon twice.
 

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