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Mounting P-Bass pickups with Threaded Bushings?

Arvin

Arvin

Underwound
Supporting Member
Sep 26, 2008
1,437
8,577
Bend, Oregon, USA
#1
I've been frustrated for a while now with the traditional, "screwed into the wood" method for P-Bass pickup mounting. I find them hard to adjust, and kind of unstable.

So I'm thinking of installing some threaded bushings in the pickup cavities, and bolting the pickups into them, with some extra-strong springs (and maybe even a little foam underneath).

Has anyone here done this before? If so, do you have any tips about doing it this way? I don't want to re-invent the wheel if I don't need to.

Thanks
 
#2
I did exactly this with my EMG P pickup into a maple body. Springs weren't necessary, just a piece of foam. I got the threaded brass inserts and the long thin allen head bolts from the local hardware store. I don't remember the exact size but I do remember getting metric.

It's very important to get the holes exactly centered and exactly vertical. It they're out of alignment, even by a tiny bit, there will be a huge amount of sideways torque on the bolt as it's threaded into the body and you will either crack the pickup or strip the inserts or both. Also make sure you use the correct size drill bit when drilling the holes for the inserts. Drill too small and the inserts won't go in all the way before they get too hard to turn and you will snap off the end of the inserts. Then you're screwed because you won't be able to turn them in any farther nor will you be able to easily get them back out.

I recommend buying a few extra inserts and practicing on a scrap piece of wood.



I've also done this with the neck heel joint to convert two of my basses from screw-on to bolt-on necks.
 
#4
hbarcat said:
I did exactly this with my EMG P pickup into a maple body. Springs weren't necessary, just a piece of foam. I got the threaded brass inserts and the long thin allen head bolts from the local hardware store. I don't remember the exact size but I do remember getting metric.

It's very important to get the holes exactly centered and exactly vertical. It they're out of alignment, even by a tiny bit, there will be a huge amount of sideways torque on the bolt as it's threaded into the body and you will either crack the pickup or strip the inserts or both. Also make sure you use the correct size drill bit when drilling the holes for the inserts. Drill too small and the inserts won't go in all the way before they get too hard to turn and you will snap off the end of the inserts. Then you're screwed because you won't be able to turn them in any farther nor will you be able to easily get them back out.

I recommend buying a few extra inserts and practicing on a scrap piece of wood.



I've also done this with the neck heel joint to convert two of my basses from screw-on to bolt-on necks.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the tips; looks like great advice (especially the practicing bit).


seanm said:
If you do try it, post pictures.
Click to expand...

Will do.
 
#5
I agree, the threaded inserts are a nice upgrade when compared to using wood screws. An alternative that I have been using is a copper clad shielding plate with threaded inserts. The inserts are fitted with surgical tubing to elevate the pickup.
--John

P_Pickup_Plate.jpg
 
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#8
i was going to say that machine screws would turn easier than wood screws and thus would more easily drift out of adjustment, but that plate thingy of pulplogic's is just cool.

i'm sure the rubber tubing serves to keep the screws from turning too easily.
 

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