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My first multiscale (experimental)

It wouldn't be a particularly bad kind of problem to have -- as long as I can still source the pots.
Just out of curiosity (And sorry for reviving your thread @ctmullins , I've come back for some of your photos and got tempted), would you ever do a dual preamp with a stacked pot?

I am coming *this* close to seeing if I can modify an Ibanez EHB shortscale with dual multicoils and filter preamps, but it only has 4 knobs, and the rotary switches for the pickups don't come in stacked pot versions. I'm unsure what I would do, short of drilling a couple of more holes. Else, is a single filter preamp for two pickups worth doing? Cheers.
 
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On this build, the single filter for both pickups is good. But one filter per pickup would be better!

And since you revived this thread, I’ll go ahead and mention: This build, as difficult as it was, I consider a successful experiment. I’ve had a lot of fun playing it, and I’ve decided to do another one, a proper one, without all of the issues from which this one suffers. Not sure when it’ll start, but I’ll add a link here when it does!
 
YES!! I am very excited to see what you come up with for a v2. I have to admit, your build (alongside a couple of others) has inspired me to design my own bass to be built... at some point in the future. This is slightly more than a pipe dream, but not going to happen anytime soon. I need to find the skills and time to model the body for a CNC.

It started off as heavily rick-inspired, but that came and went and the final iteration is somewhere in between.

fusion360 bass designv2.jpeg


The plan is for it to be shortscale (~30-33 inches fan), with two multicoils and filter preamps. At some point...
 
YES!! I am very excited to see what you come up with for a v2. I have to admit, your build (alongside a couple of others) has inspired me to design my own bass to be built... at some point in the future. This is slightly more than a pipe dream, but not going to happen anytime soon. I need to find the skills and time to model the body for a CNC.

It started off as heavily rick-inspired, but that came and went and the final iteration is somewhere in between.

View attachment 4621026

The plan is for it to be shortscale (~30-33 inches fan), with two multicoils and filter preamps. At some point...


Looks good.
 
Still haven’t broken ground on v2.0 yet, but I have done a bit more work on this one.

Somehow when I placed the ABM tuners, I didn’t place them far enough back, causing the intonation in the upper frets to be a bit sharp. Plus, the narrow string spacing had them awfully close together, without much room for fingers. I had a set of Nova tuners on hand, and I decided to install them instead. But because the Novas sit higher off the body, I needed to route a recess for them.

I also needed to trim back the volute, which was actually closer to the first fret than it should have been. And I decided to ditch the tiny ABM individual headpieces in favor of the much sturdier Nova unit, which is lighter, and has much more clamping area.

Of course, all of this meant that some refinishing, and the headpiece swap meant I could trim the false headstock down too. So no more Rick-shaped headstock, now it’s much smaller.

Multi_8946.jpg


Multi_8947.jpg


Multi_8948.jpg


The Nova hardware is also much lighter than the ABM, so this now weighs right at 8 lb / 3.6 kg. That's pretty great!

Even with the refinishing, it's still just "okay". Looks great from ten feet away, just don't get any closer. :laugh:
 
Jeez I almost forgot how insanely cool this bass is.

Basses like this make me want to make a ric so bad, but every time I have, it's ended up being all knees and elbows when I hold it. Our body shapes just ain't compatible. I'm jealous of those who can get on with them. :thumbsup:
 
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How does it sound?

Great!

Natch. :cool:

:rollno:

I kinda hate it when people answer that question with the perfunctory and meaningless “Great!”…

So I’ll tell you in more detail, as objectively as I can:

The Wild Warm & Wooly Big Blades have a very full low end, with a low-mid emphasis, and a present but somewhat subdued (or perhaps just overpowered) high end. Plus they're mounted in the Rick positions, further from the bridge than many other basses. So the basic tone is very full and deep, but articulate.

I have been experimenting with different electronic setups to go with it. Right now it has a selector switch, master volume, and a John East BTB-01. The BTB-01 also has a big, fat, pillowy low end, being boost-only for the bass control. The treble control is pretty flexible, with a pull-bright as well as the rotary boost/cut. But the inherently fat tone of the pickups combined with the boost-only bass control has me thinking about other options here.

One thing I might try is a separate preamp module for each pickup. Like perhaps the BTB-01 just for the bridge pickup, coupled with a JTEX distiller filter for the neck pickup. That would also buffer each pickup before blending, which should help.

The other option I'm strongly considering is some sort of a low-cut for the bridge pickup, like the original Rick circuit, as that preserves mid frequencies when both pickups are on.
 
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Jeez I almost forgot how insanely cool this bass is.

Basses like this make me want to make a ric so bad, but every time I have, it's ended up being all knees and elbows when I hold it. Our body shapes just ain't compatible. I'm jealous of those who can get on with them. :thumbsup:

I have found this body shape to be extremely comfortable and ergonomic for me and the way I wear an instrument. Which is why I've built a bevy of them now!
 
And I decided to ditch the tiny ABM individual headpieces in favor of the much sturdier Nova unit, which is lighter, and has much more clamping area.
Great build! Can you elaborate on the ABM headpiece issues a little bit? I have bought a set for my current build, but I have noticed that the clamping mechanism is a fairly small grub screw. Did it cause any tuning issues or string unraveling?
 
I bought one of the grub screw adapters for my 86' Steinberger, an OEM part, and never could get the damn thing to work. The grub screws always bit through the outer string windings and they broke. The double ball strings are really superior, but getting hard to find in the light gauges I like. How do they hold up in the ABM?
 
I bought one of the grub screw adapters for my 86' Steinberger, an OEM part, and never could get the damn thing to work. The grub screws always bit through the outer string windings and they broke. The double ball strings are really superior, but getting hard to find in the light gauges I like. How do they hold up in the ABM?

I just thought about this.. Did anyone try making their own double ball strings by crimping a ferrule to standard strings to make the second "ball"? You know, the ferrules used for aircraft wire. It might work.
 
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I didn’t have any problem with the ABM headpieces holding the strings. But I only used one set of strings with them, mounted just a single time.

The ABMs are quite small, which makes them feel less robust. Of course they’re cast and machined beautifully. But their small size does not instill confidence in me.

CE072983-F019-40A6-BA97-76EAA46123C7.jpeg


The actual fixing screw is much smaller than the Nova, giving the Nova more clamping area, which should mean less tightening needed too, reducing the risk of crushing and severing the string. Advantage: Nova.

54284B50-E8BC-4FCC-8B87-30A2C2C4C04F.jpeg


Finally, the ABM uses its tiny mounting screw and this tiny 1mm pin to resist rotation when tightening or loosening the grub screw. This tiny pin is far too small to effectively resist rotation, instead just tearing through the wood. Advantage: Nova.

FA36DED7-F888-4C47-9945-BE90067385E5.jpeg
 
Electronics update:

Despite this build being a pain in my backside, and still looking like crap up close, it’s really comfortable to play, and its inherent voice is deep, full, and quite engrossing. But the original electronics were not quite right. So I’ve been experimenting with different circuits and combinations.

As I wrote in the filter preamp thread the other day:



The original circuit was passive, with a selector switch and a 500kOhm master volume. Tone was good. The Nordstrands have an amazingly healthy output. But the overall tone was darker than I wanted.

Then I added a JTEX Distiller after the master volume. More flexibility, some good tones, but still too dark.

Then I replaced the Distiller with a John East BTB-01, a really nice, compact concentric two-band unit with some cool features: the bass control is boost-only, the treble control cuts at a lower frequency than it boosts, and it has a pull Bright for top-end sheen. This is a comfort zone for me, as I have these units in several other basses. Again, plenty of flexibility, but the overall tone was still too dark.

I realized that the passive mixing of the pickups with the selector switch was probably contributing to the dark tone, especially the middle position, where the insertion loss was sucking out a bunch of mids too. So I replaced the selector switch with a Richter MX2 active buffered blend, and replaced the 500kOhm master volume with a 25kOhm unit wired after everything else. Huge difference! Instead of losing mids in the center position, the active blend actually emphasized them, which was quite welcome! And having each pickup routed straight into its own buffer really helped preserve the treble frequencies. I was actually thinking of swapping out the W&W Big Blades for a pair of Clean & Clear, but the buffers made that unnecessary. Now we’re getting somewhere!

After a while I became dissatisfied with the taper of the active blend - it seemed like the middle 80% all sounded essentially the same, with either end sounding different, but either end also had less output than the middle section. Maybe that’s a quirk of the Richter? I don’t know. I don’t really like blend controls anyway.

So the final iteration, and the one that I think is a keeper, is this: the neck pickup is wired directly to the JTEX Distiller, the bridge pickup is wired straight to the East BTB-01, then those outputs go to the selector switch, then to the 25kOhm master volume. Holy Crap! This bass is an absolute beast now! Wiring each pickup straight to a buffer preserves so much high end, the neck pickup with the filter does all kinds of vintage and deep/dub tones, the bridge pickup with the East does all kinds of grindy and full rock tones, and running both together gets me that scooped pseudo-Jazz tone, but with loads of clarity and loads of output, and - this is the cool part - twiddling with the knobs lets me dial in the mids. With the East at a neutral setting, I can sweep the neck pickup through the filter and hear how it combines with the bridge going through the East. Since they’re both buffered, the two signals sum instead of cancel, and the filter emphasizes a certain band of mids - high mids, hi-mid mids, lo-mid mids, low mids, or deep dub lows. It’s a whole ton of fun!



So now, despite being a mongrel destined for the fire pit, this little bastard has managed to claw its way to the top of my regular daily players pile. You just never know, do you? :roflmao:
 
Two small updates:
  1. As fantastic as the Big Blades are (and they are!), I ordered a set of 916 Super Ferrites from @Matt Kustom to try. I asked him if he could do exposed blades, since I like that look, and he obliged for a nominal upcharge. He is quick and his work is very precise! The Super Ferrites have that unique combination of heft and clarity, and I’m really enjoying them in this bass. Thanks Matt!
  2. I picked up a secondhand Lusithand double filter preamp, and decided to try it in this bass. So now it’s four knobs, two of which are push/pull for extra resonance on each filter. I like it so far! I’ll leave it here for a while, and try to do a long-term evaluation.

Multi_0303.jpg


I am still very much enjoying this instrument, and I still think about how it almost became firewood, but instead somehow rose to the top of the group of regular gig basses. :angel: