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NBD: 1983 Fender Elite II - Passive - Serious Mojo!

Twocan

Living the Dream
Supporting Member
Oct 5, 2009
1,887
2,189
New England, USA
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I rescued this bass a few months ago from the FB classifieds. It was in dire shape: The knobs were gone, split shaft pots snapped off, the switches were actually bent, the battery connector had disconnected from the wires, the bass was FILTHY and it smelled like an ash tray. It was obviously never kept in a case and played hard. There are scratches, dings, scrapes, bumps and bruises.

I’ve owned a few Fender Elites over the years, liked them mostly for sentimental reasons (my first bass was a 1983 American Standard P), and felt bad for this bass when I saw it - rehab was needed. I took the entire thing apart and cleaned EVERYTHING. Pots and rusty screws were removed and tossed. I also oiled the fretboard with pure lemon oil, which restored some of the color. When I was done I took it to my tech, who had the bass for several months - he replaced the pots and switches, but the bass had a horrible grounding hum that he had a lot of trouble diagnosing. He changed out just about everything, shielded the entire cavity, did some work with the bridge and couldn’t get the bass to quiet down.

Finally, realizing that I never really bonded with the Elites due to their odd electronic controls and glass breaking high end, I told him to pitch the Pre Amp bad go passive: V/V/T and a pickup selector switch (the rear switch being disconnected completely). Once the pre was out of the amp, the hum disappeared and I finally got to go pick it up yesterday.

I cannot be happier with the tone this thing is producing. The neck pickups are aggressive and scream Motown with the tone rolled back. The rear pickups and bright and jazzy, and when they’re both on the tone smooths out very nicely. IMHO the tone is so much better out of these basses/pickups without the pre!

It’s far from perfect, but has some serious mojo! Down the road it’s going to need some new bridge saddles (they’re frozen in place) or perhaps replace the bridge completely. It’s currently strung with some broken in Elixirs, which seem to be a great fit.

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If you can live without it for a while, you can remove the entire bridge and soak it in penetrating oil.
Maybe some PB Rustblaster.
That should loosen rust, corrosion, etc. and get a bit of lube to the threads.
Once the screws are willing to move, work them back and forth to dislodge the grunge,
clean it up and reinstall.
Nothing is likely to fit as well as what it started with.
 
If you can live without it for a while, you can remove the entire bridge and soak it in penetrating oil.
Maybe some PB Rustblaster.
That should loosen rust, corrosion, etc. and get a bit of lube to the threads.
Once the screws are willing to move, work them back and forth to dislodge the grunge,
clean it up and reinstall.
Nothing is likely to fit as well as what it started with.

Thanks for the advice. My tech did soak the saddles for a day or two. Unfortunately, these appear beyond restoration. I'm eyeing the Schaller Roller bridges that were used (or imitated) on the Fender Plus line in the 90's. Also three hole and similar in form/construction.
E35B8106-AFEF-4257-824E-94B373C73AC4.jpeg
 
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If you can live without it for a while, you can remove the entire bridge and soak it in penetrating oil.
Maybe some PB Rustblaster.
That should loosen rust, corrosion, etc. and get a bit of lube to the threads.
Once the screws are willing to move, work them back and forth to dislodge the grunge,
clean it up and reinstall.
Nothing is likely to fit as well as what it started with.


Agreed. Do everything you can to salvage the original bridge. Also +1 on the PB Blaster -- good stuff!
 
I came across mine about 20 years ago and bonded instantly. Love the tonal versatility. Over time I've realized that the weight is a little much, and I actually prefer the neck on my T-40. But this is the one that is always in a floor stand, never on the wall.
 
Thanks for the advice. My tech did soak the saddles for a day or two. Unfortunately, these appear beyond restoration. I'm eyeing the Schaller Roller bridges that were used (or imitated) on the Fender Plus line in the 90's. Also three hole and similar in form/construction.
View attachment 2892990

Schaller 3D bridges rock but you could try using electrolysis cleaning on the original bridge. Invalid Link Removed
 
I'd agree with using a penetrating fluid, but maybe use a stronger automotive one. The WD40 Penetrating Fluid is pretty good. Sounds like it needs to be removed and left in a bath of penetrating fluid for more than a couple of days. It'd be a shame to replace the bridge, it looks quite cool.