New sleeper bass for me here! Let it be known that I am also HARD to please.
Been searching for a solid and really affordable new bass for a while, and I think this one may just be staying. This Schecter blows Spector's Pulse 5 out of the water (last bass I bought and returned). The Spector's neck was surprisingly weak...flexed way too much, especially for a roasted 3-piece construction, and couldn't take really low action without fretting out across the board.
First for me, is to have the neck pass the truss and fret consistency test. The Schecter's neck moved freely in both directions, adjusted flat like I prefer, and the fret job was done pretty darn well for this price point. They're considered XJ frets, but they're not that big compared to medium frets. They're not that much taller. Contrary to what others have said, I have zero problems getting to the highest frets.
The stock bridge sucks, though...can't stand ABM-like bridges. It doesn't offer even close to enough height adjustment for super easy action. I knew this was a potential issue, so I luckily had two spare bridges on my parts shelf...Hipshot A and Schaller roller-type. The Hipshot's screw holes didn't line up with the stock one, but the Schaller did. The strings are now more towards the treble side, due to the slightly different string locations from the new bridge, but still playable after adjusting each string's spacing (bass' default is 17mm). The saddles can lower the strings to lay on the frets, so I brought the action up to just above that. This bass is so easy to play now, and with minimal buzzing, and for such little money, too.
Got the pickups adjusted right up under the strings, with no wobbling. They were already at a pretty good height, as EMGs should be. I'm pretty sure that they're still the passive HZs, even though the covers just say EMG now. Am I wrong? I had my amp's volume dimed to test them and the preamp (via headphone jack), as that's the same level I use for my passive basses.
There's no distortion when I dig in (18v system), and the bass has a nice, clear canvas to use. The preamp's levels (not headroom) could have more oomph, certainly, but I don't think it's anywhere near enough of a reason to get a new preamp. It's all in skillful eq'ing. I experimented, and found that the magic is using the bass' bass knob, but using an amp or pedals for the mids and highs. The bass' ones aren't bad, just not stellar. Well, my dinky little Peavey Max 108's eq gave me the same powerful tone as a previous Carvin/Kiesel Icon I owned...clear, growly, and noise-free. The cavity's wiring is clean, and the battery compartment even has threaded brass inserts for the screws. Not bad, eh?
Appearance-wise, it's even better looking in person. I was very pleased,as it looks way better than in the retailer's images. The edges are actually purple, and the overall color is more reminiscent of Kiesel's nightburst, as opposed to aquaburst (Kiesel's oceanburst). The figured veneer? top looks quite nice over the mahogany body, and the maple/walnut neck is satiny smooth as hell, like the rest of the bass. The rosewood board looks great, especially as do the abalone inlays. This bass isn't light, but not heavy to me, either. I'd say it's about 10 pounds, but with pretty good balance (planning on lighter tuners, anyway).
Considering this bass was under $700, and still Korean-made, I think she just may be a winner!
Been searching for a solid and really affordable new bass for a while, and I think this one may just be staying. This Schecter blows Spector's Pulse 5 out of the water (last bass I bought and returned). The Spector's neck was surprisingly weak...flexed way too much, especially for a roasted 3-piece construction, and couldn't take really low action without fretting out across the board.
First for me, is to have the neck pass the truss and fret consistency test. The Schecter's neck moved freely in both directions, adjusted flat like I prefer, and the fret job was done pretty darn well for this price point. They're considered XJ frets, but they're not that big compared to medium frets. They're not that much taller. Contrary to what others have said, I have zero problems getting to the highest frets.
The stock bridge sucks, though...can't stand ABM-like bridges. It doesn't offer even close to enough height adjustment for super easy action. I knew this was a potential issue, so I luckily had two spare bridges on my parts shelf...Hipshot A and Schaller roller-type. The Hipshot's screw holes didn't line up with the stock one, but the Schaller did. The strings are now more towards the treble side, due to the slightly different string locations from the new bridge, but still playable after adjusting each string's spacing (bass' default is 17mm). The saddles can lower the strings to lay on the frets, so I brought the action up to just above that. This bass is so easy to play now, and with minimal buzzing, and for such little money, too.
Got the pickups adjusted right up under the strings, with no wobbling. They were already at a pretty good height, as EMGs should be. I'm pretty sure that they're still the passive HZs, even though the covers just say EMG now. Am I wrong? I had my amp's volume dimed to test them and the preamp (via headphone jack), as that's the same level I use for my passive basses.
There's no distortion when I dig in (18v system), and the bass has a nice, clear canvas to use. The preamp's levels (not headroom) could have more oomph, certainly, but I don't think it's anywhere near enough of a reason to get a new preamp. It's all in skillful eq'ing. I experimented, and found that the magic is using the bass' bass knob, but using an amp or pedals for the mids and highs. The bass' ones aren't bad, just not stellar. Well, my dinky little Peavey Max 108's eq gave me the same powerful tone as a previous Carvin/Kiesel Icon I owned...clear, growly, and noise-free. The cavity's wiring is clean, and the battery compartment even has threaded brass inserts for the screws. Not bad, eh?
Appearance-wise, it's even better looking in person. I was very pleased,as it looks way better than in the retailer's images. The edges are actually purple, and the overall color is more reminiscent of Kiesel's nightburst, as opposed to aquaburst (Kiesel's oceanburst). The figured veneer? top looks quite nice over the mahogany body, and the maple/walnut neck is satiny smooth as hell, like the rest of the bass. The rosewood board looks great, especially as do the abalone inlays. This bass isn't light, but not heavy to me, either. I'd say it's about 10 pounds, but with pretty good balance (planning on lighter tuners, anyway).
Considering this bass was under $700, and still Korean-made, I think she just may be a winner!
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