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NBD... The Waiting is the Hardest Part!

sj_bass

Supporting Member
May 23, 2010
1,734
603
Long Beach, CA
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Proudly Supporting Moody Leathers
So, it's been 35 years since I've had a Ric in my arsenal... Until now - well, almost... It's been on a FedEx truck since last Friday. Hopefully, weather depending it will be here tomorrow! :hyper:

Here's the only pic - I know it's gonna need some work, but it's a 1981 4003 with a split pickguard.

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Scratch one more off from my Bucket List.
 
Thanks. Like I said, its been over 35 years since I've held one in my hands.

All I remember is that the neck felt like a baseball bat, the balance was awkwardly clumsy, and it had such a mid-range tone that it never sat quite well in the mix.

Now, looking back, maybe it was more my lack of skill than the bass' lack of sound quality.
 
Split 'guard and 7 screw tailpiece, nice!
The neck should be nice and comfy, and you'll never have tail lift.

Just remember that the 4003 will respond to a different EQ setting than most other basses (Fender).
Do NOT scoop the mids, for example.

Before the internet, that's what everyone (and I do mean everyone) told me to do and I never could get a really decent powerful sound.

Hey, they were all older and much more experienced than I was, and I figured they knew what was what.
However, they apparently didn't know squat about EQing a Rick bass.
 
Oh, I still suck... But, for some reason people actually pay me to play these instruments.

I was wondering about the extra two screws in the tailpiece. I thought that it was some kind of over compensation for the tail lift problem that I am so accustomed to reading about.

My luthier friend Greg from the now default World of Strings once told me that the 1981 rickenbacker 4003 was one of his favorite years. I am beginning to understand why.

Anyway, I just checked the tracking number for like the 5th time today. My new to me bass is ready for delivery sitting at the warehouse which is only 7 miles from my house. So close, yet so far away...
 
.........
I was wondering about the extra two screws in the tailpiece. I thought that it was some kind of over compensation for the tail lift problem that I am so accustomed to reading about.

..........

That's exactly why they were put there at the factory, but apparently the look was unpopular so they reverted to the old 5 screw design, which eventually lifts slightly, although the black tailpieces tended to be more prone to lift due to the heat treating finish process.

People would apparently rather complain about tail lift than the look of the 2 screws.

RIC changed the design because of lift complaints, and then back because of aesthetic complaints, so when some folks here say that they don't ever listen to their customers, you will know this isn't necessarily true.

Maybe they're just tired of the customers not being able to decide what they really want when they get what they asked for. I know it would irritate the heck out of me.
 
Well, it's here... Not ready for live shows, but I knew that it would need some work.

I went to Fedex and saw a guitar box and said, "that one! That's my new baby..." He said, is your name xxxx? No, well your package is over here in the back...

He brought out a folded over piece of cardboard. OMFG, my 32 year old bass has been reduced to third class. I told them that I was not leaving until I inspected the instrument right there. They naturally obliged, especially as the saw the look of fear and possible snapped headstock sadness on my face.

Luck was with me; my bass was unscathed from the transcontinental journey.

Brought it home; plugged it in... Nothing. Worked the switches around a bit, and tried both plugs and it's operational, but wiring is really sketchy.

It also appears that the truss rods have been replaced - poorly. So the job looks like this:
1) repair and possibly replace the truss rods with Rickenbacker correct parts.
2) remove and resolder all of the wiring. Some of the pots may need to be replaced and/or cleaned.
3) dress and refinish all of the frets.
4) replace the pickguard around the neck pickup, as part of it was cut away for the makeshift truss nuts.
5) find a bridge pickup bezel to replace the plastic piece that's currently in place.

When all is said and done I should have my dream bass ready in time for Christmas.

And that will be a happy day!
 
Update: After tearing the bass down, I realized that the truss rods are actually correct and functional.

Apparently the '79-'83 Ric's had the adjustment down at the heel. Why? I haven't the slightest clue... so that's one less task. :bassist:
 
Can you snap me a pic of the top of the rod and the bottom if you get a chance? I'd like to see what you meant by bottom adjust.

he means that you adjust the truss rods from the neck heel, not the headstock. Doesn't seem too terribly practical, at least in comparison to the standard adjust-at-headstock. I also have a Rick with the split pickguard, and have to remove the part holding the neck pickup to adjust the truss rods. They work exactly the same as the 4001 basses that came before them, since they are still the same old-style truss rod that RIC phased out in and around 1985. After that, the now-standard rods were introduced
 
Update: After tearing the bass down, I realized that the truss rods are actually correct and functional.

Apparently the '79-'83 Ric's had the adjustment down at the heel. Why? I haven't the slightest clue... so that's one less task. :bassist:

This is the reason for the split pickguard, to allow easier access to the rods for adjustment.

For your setup needs:

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Some very good info there.
 
Congrats, I got a fizzing sound on mine at one point, and apparently some of the pickup switch solder joints either had a poor connection or was shorting (forgot), be sure to check that out.


Yeah, I got that same problem... Emery paper on the contacts should do the trick.

Congrat's BUUUdy!:bassist:


Thanks BUUUUUDY! P.S. When are you gonna be in SoCal again??? NAMM is just around the corner!