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Neck adjustment for different gauge strings

Newbie here! I will soon be modding my MIM Deluxe PBass, & included in that is heavier gauge strings based on my current work. I currently string it with .45-.105 flats, but will need to use .50-.110 flats instead. I know I'll need to do some nut filing, but how should I appriach this so I dont harm the neck or truss rod? Thanks in advance for any advice. :D
 
Newbie here! I will soon be modding my MIM Deluxe PBass, & included in that is heavier gauge strings based on my current work. I currently string it with .45-.105 flats, but will need to use .50-.110 flats instead. I know I'll need to do some nut filing, but how should I appriach this so I dont harm the neck or truss rod? Thanks in advance for any advice. :D

You cannot harm the neck or the truss rod by changing string gauges. File the nut slots with appropriately gauged nut files. Adjust the truss rod if necessary.
 
Quick update: thanks for the advice. Here's what I did.

Replaced the stock mim bridge with a heftier Gotoh 203, replaced the stock p pickup with an Original '62, installed a fresh wiring harness from Best Bass Gear, new pickguard from WD, and strung up with D'Addario chromes flats 50-105. Damn...it sound good now. I've yet to get the action exactly right. Its raised a bit above the 12th fret and higher. However, I thought I'd play it for a few days and let it all settle in.

Thanks to all for the advice. The stock bone nut sits nicely, and the strings haven't changed anything. I've been using the Erlewine book to adjust intonation and add proper relief.

That 62 pup with those flats...it just growls. Thanks again.
 
You will likely need to tweak the truss rod just a bit, unless you also play upright:cool:

Heavier gage and flats will likely be higher tension than you had, which will pull more relief in your neck you will probably want to flatten slightly. Good luck.
 
Thanks. Yes, I figured that, especially as humid as its been in my area lately. So truss rod adjustment, not the bridge at all?

If the bridge was correct (following the radius of the fingerboard) you shouldn't have to change it. Just a slight turn of the truss rod will probably do it IF it needs adjusted at all. Probably 1/8 to 1/4 turn, depending on how your neck responds to adjustments. I sometimes do minor bridge saddle adjustments if I'm changing strings that have different size jumps between strings (example; .040, .060, .080, .100 to .040, .060, .075, .095). I do very minimal saddle changes; only enough to change the feel if a string feels low or high in comparison to the old set.
 

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