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Neck lamination technique - do I have the right idea here?

I am in the planning phase of my first scratch build. This will be a Telecaster-style guitar, using only woods grown in the Pacific Northwest (I hope to learn enough from this to make a bass in a similar style). My lumber for this is a 2" x 7" x 4.5' board of doug fir for the body, a 3" x 1" x 27" Claro Walnut neck blank, and a lovely figured Oregon Myrtle board, 1/2" x 7" x 32", that will become my fretboard. The size of this will shrink a bit after I surface and level it out, it's currently rough with a slight bow.

I really like the look of the 5 piece laminated necks that Yamaha uses on many of their BB models - Maple with two narrow strips of mahogany running down the middle. And the myrtlewood board I bought has quite a bit more material than I need for a fretboard. This got me thinking about doing a five piece laminate neck with strips of Myrtle laid in between the walnut - both for stability and for aesthetic reasons.

I don't have a photo of the fir, but here's the walnut and myrtlewood, from the top and looking at the end grain. My cat is helping inspect the wood in the first picture here.
PXL_20240309_041347910~2.jpg


PXL_20240309_041522243~2.jpg

The walnut is quartersawn, while the myrtle to me looks like it's riftsawn. both are very dry, under 4% moisture. My thought here is to cut a couple of 1" strips of the myrtlewood, turn them on their side, then insert those between the walnut like so:

PXL_20240320_210745512.jpg

Does this look like a reasonable plan? Should I flip any of the walnut pieces upside down? I am planning to mirror the myrtlewood, but I'm not sure if the walnut would also benefit from something like this. The grain is a little bit wavy viewed from above, but it seems straight when viewed from the end.
 
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A simple memory trick I learned from @Bruce Johnson is “cup up”, which it looks like you have for the Myrtle stringers, assuming the diagram is fingerboard on the top. If the walnut pieces are as vertical as your sketch, that should work.

Thanks - I'll keep that in mind. I admit I just happened to draw the grain on the myrtle in that orientation, but it's nice to know I guessed correctly.

I will also say that following some of your build threads was one of a number of things that inspired me to try my hand at building an instrument, so thank you for that as well!
 
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I am in the planning phase of my first scratch build. This will be a Telecaster-style guitar, using only woods grown in the Pacific Northwest (I hope to learn enough from this to make a bass in a similar style). My lumber for this is a 2" x 7" x 4.5' board of doug fir for the body, a 3" x 1" x 27" Claro Walnut neck blank, and a lovely figured Oregon Myrtle board, 1/2" x 7" x 32", that will become my fretboard. The size of this will shrink a bit after I surface and level it out, it's currently rough with a slight bow.

I really like the look of the 5 piece laminated necks that Yamaha uses on many of their BB models - Maple with two narrow strips of mahogany running down the middle. And the myrtlewood board I bought has quite a bit more material than I need for a fretboard. This got me thinking about doing a five piece laminate neck with strips of Myrtle laid in between the walnut - both for stability and for aesthetic reasons.

I don't have a photo of the fir, but here's the walnut and myrtlewood, from the top and looking at the end grain. My cat is helping inspect the wood in the first picture here.
View attachment 5393156

View attachment 5393158
The walnut is quartersawn, while the myrtle to me looks like it's riftsawn. both are very dry, under 4% moisture. My thought here is to cut a couple of 1" strips of the myrtlewood, turn them on their side, then insert those between the walnut like so:

View attachment 5393171
Does this look like a reasonable plan? Should I flip any of the walnut pieces upside down? I am planning to mirror the myrtlewood, but I'm not sure if the walnut would also benefit from something like this. The grain is a little bit wavy viewed from above, but it seems straight when viewed from the end.

Welcome to the club, Isaac!

You're doing fine.

The optimal way to build up a multi-lam neck is:
  • The center strip should be vertical grain/rings, quartersawn, the straightest one of the set.
  • All the strips on either side of center should be symmetrical and opposing; mirrored
  • If there's any angle in the outer strips, the preference is to make them curve upward. But always make them symmetrical side to side. Don't put one side curving upward and the other downward; that causes twist.
What you've shown looks good. If the outer walnut strips are nearly vertical, then it doesn't matter as much if they aren't flipped. But try to make them symmetrical/mirrored if you can.

If you haven't seen this old thread, we go over all this in more detail:

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/about-that-quartersawn-maple.1265053/
 
Issac --- New builder here. I built a 5-piece multi laminate, using my Yamaha BB1200S as a reference. Took similar approach as your sketch/drawing. For lumber I used hard maple and mahogany (thin strips/stripes). I got as far as laminating it, cut and glue a scarf joint for the headstock (bass will be ES335-like), routed channel and installed truss rod. You can see my post on this here starting on post #16. ES-335 bass build | TalkBass.com. Then here again: ES-335 bass build | Page 7 | TalkBass.com post # 124.
 
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