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Need car help, no start

Linas

Linas

Jan 6, 2005
2,054
17
39
Chicago
#1
So, i have a 1991 volvo 940 turbo with about 185k miles on the clock. I have owned it for about 3 years and i have never had it not start on me. Two days ago, i went to start it, and it wouldnt even crank. Later in the day, it started to crank, but not start. I got a new battery, assuming that was probably the issue, and that wasnt it. I changed my spark plugs and that didnt do it. What else might be the culprit? Working on cars in negative weather sucks. :(
 
#2
My Mitsu had a problem where it randomly would crank very slowly, or refuse to crank at all. Zero power - no interior lights, nothing. Cleaning the corrosion from the insides of the cable terminals, or jumping it would get it going, after which it would run fine for a couple of months before the same thing would happen again. It turned out to be a small break underneath the insulation of my battery cable near the terminal, which would cause continuity to be lost intermittently. Jump starting or cleaning the terminals would get the car going again, because those activities involved moving the cables around, which would restore continuity. I replaced my battery cables a year ago and have not had the problem repeat itself.

Don't know if that's the deal with your car, but I thought I'd throw that out there.
 
#3
Hi.

Feel for You, it seems that every time a vehicle gives trouble it's either 20 below or it rains like in a rain forest. Not to mention in the middle of a nowhere and it's 1 AM ;).

Does it crank well with the new battery? If it does take one of the spare spark plugs and attach that to one of the leads and let it rest touching the engine block. Crank the engine and DO NOT touch or hold the plug, it can zap You pretty good. If there's no spark, it's probably the ignition module, those go bad from time to time.

If there's a good constant spark and the symptoms started when the temperature fell below freezing, You most probably have ice in the fuel system. A cab heater under the engine and a blanket over the hood should take care of that in a couple of hours if You can't get the car inside.

Those are the first things that I'd try out.

Regards
Sam
 
#5
If your lights and radio are working fine, I would say you have a bad starter. Sometimes if you take a wrench, small hammer, etc. and tap on the body of the starter a couple times it will get you one last start out of it(and confirm that it was indeed the starter).
 
#6
Timing belt might be shot with that many miles on it...do you know when the last time it got changed?...fire fuel and air...its got to be one of those...check spark..if you have a spark and is turning over somewhat strong...no fuel and or air...which might be your computer (ECM Engine control module) or probably a timing belt....$$$:bawl:
 
#7
The you jiggle the red wire? Seriously, if it's turning over and not cranking its either going to be either a fuel issue or ignition problem. Both are easy to check.
 
#8
HollowBassman said:
If your lights and radio are working fine, I would say you have a bad starter. Sometimes if you take a wrench, small hammer, etc. and tap on the body of the starter a couple times it will get you one last start out of it(and confirm that it was indeed the starter).
Click to expand...

I had this same issue on my 4-Runner about 10 years ago. Turned out to be a corroded electrical connection on the starter, so I didn't have to replace the motor.
 
#9
Check the lights first. They are a large draw and if they work, generally your battery connections are ok.

If the lights work, look for bad connections to the starter.

But it could very well be the starter or, more likely, the starter solenoid.
 
#11
The rule: figure out the most simple thing that could cause the problem, and go to it first.

Cars need three things to start and run: air, fuel and spark.

If it's cranking, you have electricity to the starter and all the comments about corroded battery and starter cables are irrelevant. Air should not be a problem. The problem is either fuel delivery or spark.

I'd check a shop manual first to make sure I'm not hurting the ECU, then I'd pull a spark plug wire at the distributor cap (NOT the plug) and hold it about 1/2" from the cap while someone cranks it. If you see a spark jump, then you're getting spark to the plugs. That leaves fuel. If no spark, then it's something in the ignition circuit.

If you have spark, then it's likely fuel: is the gas tank empty? If there's gas in the tank, change the fuel filter and try again. Might be blocked.

If it's spark, then unless you're a good mechanic, have it towed to a shop with diagnostic tools. It's probably a sensor or some unit in the controls. Something like this happened to my '93 Audi and it was a cam angle sensor under the valve cover - there was no way to find and correct it without diagnostic tools.

My guess is that you'll end up having it towed to a shop if it's not an empty gas tank or plugged fuel filter.
 
#13
I completely agree about the sensor(s). Cars today are loaded with them. I know someone whose OIL was a little low and the engine wouldn't start because of a sensor. With so many miles on your vehicle...you may want to check the oil, top it off ~only if necessary~ and go from there.

Good Luck!
 
#15
im still having problems. It still will not start. I hear my fuel pump, so i assume its getting fuel, and i replaced my fuel filter maybe 30k miles ago, so it shouldn't need replacement yet, and i buy premium gas. I removed my distributor cap and there was some condensation in there, and all of the contacts are a bit corroded and worn. Im going to replace that and the rotor next, hopefully this is the culprit.
 

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