need help with active passive circuitry

[saranam]

hi newbie here with a typical newbie need i.e HELLLLPPPP.
i have never deait with active/passive wiring before and i am struggling to get it to work
I have teste both pups and they are fine the circuit has a push pull switch to activate the passive circuitry (by pulling)
It is wired as best as i can logically going by the directions on each part if any one can look at the photos and give some advice i would really appreciate it ta

 

[Growlmonkee]

The first pic has what looks like a stray wire from output to ground, if that's as it appears, the circuit is shorted, you might not have a signal passed that. While it can't all be seen, it's possible that heat from soldering has burned a copper trace. I would check the areas where the shield wire, touches the signal wire, to see if any of the insulation on the signal wire is burned through, where you separated them. The pictures show wires cut off, going nowhere, as in the first picture, where pickup 1, and pickup 2 wires are...cut, the battery hot wire is cut in the last picture, and the battery gnd. has no wire, so going by the pics, you should have no output at all, if everything you show was hooked up correctly, there does need to still be a wire to ground on the push pull pot, probably from the battery, that wire could possibly affect both passive, and active modes.

 

[honeyiscool]

I have no idea what I'm looking at because there are so many cut wires.

But I did draw up a diagram the other day for an EMG EQ bypass and even though your first two pots look very different, this is more or less what they should be wired like.

 

[line6man]

We need information on the problem. All you have said is that you are struggling to get it to work. What isn't working, and why?

 

[saranam]

We need information on the problem. All you have said is that you are struggling to get it to work. What isn't working, and why?

hi thanks for the replies i will do my best to explain what it was like. picture one shows the black and red twin cables from the 2 pups and they were soldered to the pup1 and 2 (they are cut so as to remove the assembly). The grey twin core goes from out pcb to bal v/r of a push pull (p/p) switch used to split active (push) and passive (pull). The pick up common is soldered to the ground along with the grey common also the can is soldered to a separate ground onto the p/p. I've already mentioned the grey wire, the white wire was wired directly to one of the hot lugs on the out jack (i assumed this was the passive out, bypassing the active circuit, the ground here was unused. The other side of the p/p is out pcb another grey twin cable to pick up vr and ground. In pcb on the p/p was connect by the loose white wire on the pcb from out jack. the red single wire on the pcb was from the hot side of the battery the cold side off the battery was straight to the ground lug of the jack socket. The 3 core cable from the pcb (white,red and black) go to the 4th pot whose can was attached to the bridge earth. There was no wire anywhere taking the hot active signal to the second lug of the out jack socket. There are no obvious defects in any of the wiring or pcb connections or overheated joints apart from the p/p pot all the others are centre detentes hope this helps
cheers
Lennie

 

[line6man]

hi thanks for the replies i will do my best to explain what it was like. picture one shows the black and red twin cables from the 2 pups and they were soldered to the pup1 and 2 (they are cut so as to remove the assembly). The grey twin core goes from out pcb to bal v/r of a push pull (p/p) switch used to split active (push) and passive (pull). The pick up common is soldered to the ground along with the grey common also the can is soldered to a separate ground onto the p/p. I've already mentioned the grey wire, the white wire was wired directly to one of the hot lugs on the out jack (i assumed this was the passive out, bypassing the active circuit, the ground here was unused. The other side of the p/p is out pcb another grey twin cable to pick up vr and ground. In pcb on the p/p was connect by the loose white wire on the pcb from out jack. the red single wire on the pcb was from the hot side of the battery the cold side off the battery was straight to the ground lug of the jack socket. The 3 core cable from the pcb (white,red and black) go to the 4th pot whose can was attached to the bridge earth. There was no wire anywhere taking the hot active signal to the second lug of the out jack socket. There are no obvious defects in any of the wiring or pcb connections or overheated joints apart from the p/p pot all the others are centre detentes hope this helps
cheers
Lennie

Again, you aren't explaining the problem. What issue are you having with the bass?

 

[saranam]

hi thanks for the replies i will do my best to explain what it was like. picture one shows the black and red twin cables from the 2 pups and they were soldered to the pup1 and 2 (they are cut so as to remove the assembly). The grey twin core goes from out pcb to bal v/r of a push pull (p/p) switch used to split active (push) and passive (pull). The pick up common is soldered to the ground along with the grey common also the can is soldered to a separate ground onto the p/p. I've already mentioned the grey wire, the white wire was wired directly to one of the hot lugs on the out jack (i assumed this was the passive out, bypassing the active circuit, the ground here was unused. The other side of the p/p is out pcb another grey twin cable to pick up vr and ground. In pcb on the p/p was connect by the loose white wire on the pcb from out jack. the red single wire on the pcb was from the hot side of the battery the cold side off the battery was straight to the ground lug of the jack socket. The 3 core cable from the pcb (white,red and black) go to the 4th pot whose can was attached to the bridge earth. There was no wire anywhere taking the hot active signal to the second lug of the out jack socket. There are no obvious defects in any of the wiring or pcb connections or overheated joints apart from the p/p pot all the others are centre detentes hope this helps
cheers
Lennie

 

[saranam]

more photos

none of the circuits work i have tested both pups and both have good output direct to jack

 

[Growlmonkee]

You said you tested the pickups, wondering if you did that with that enclosed output jack, they are prone to problems, they wear out from use, sometimes long before they should, and they can't take heat from soldering as well as open jacks, though you probably need one on that bass. The wires to the jack should be tip-output signal, ring-battery ground wire, sleeve-common ground, so that the preamp circuit is open, until a mono sleeve/tip plug connects the battery ground to common ground, completing the circuit, pull out the plug, the preamp circuit is open, battery isn't being drained, as in Honeyiscool's very nice diagram, this needs to be in place that way for "passive" mode to work also. (both passive and active use the same single output wire to the jack)

 

[walterw]

But I did draw up a diagram the other day for an EMG EQ bypass

that's just beautiful!

it also uses the proper grounded true bypass, shorting the preamp's input to ground when the pre is switched out for reduced noise and popping.

what program did you use to draw it?

 

[line6man]

Yeah, that's one of the nicest diagrams that I've seen. It's almost a work of art!

 

[honeyiscool]

that's just beautiful!

it also uses the proper grounded true bypass, shorting the preamp's input to ground when the pre is switched out for reduced noise and popping.

what program did you use to draw it?

Thanks!

It's a vector drawing program for Mac called Autodesk Graphic. It's actually excruciatingly slow since it's not really meant for wiring diagrams, so I make everything from scratch, pots start out as circles. But I'm getting much faster, I can crank out simple diagrams quickly now, but of course, I never have to draw the simple ones since they already exist online, so it usually does take me a while. Since I mod quite a bit, I'm trying to start a collection of reliable "old favorites" for my own personal use.

On that particular bass, after drawing it, I decided to go with VV since I wanted a parallel/series on the Bartolini bridge humbucker (it's an MM-J type bass) and that's easier with VV, so I also drew this up:

 

[saranam]

unfortunately my drawing is not upto honeys standard but perhaps someone could confirm what i have filled in and hopefully let me know how to hook up the rest. if anyone can then identify perhaps if a contact point is not used and could mark that for me as well, i may be able to work it out but as you know these things are not designed to be handled and soldered to often cheers in anticipation
lennie

 

[Growlmonkee]

Lennie, without going any further than the output jack as a start, you have "jack socket" "ground", and "hot x2" written there, that might be a problem, the 3 pins on the output jack are used for ...tip-output signal, ring-battery negative, (it's here that the battery ground is mechanically connected to system ground, completing the preamp circuit), and lastly sleeve, (system ground wire, that connects to all ground connections), so..there's only one "hot" output wire to the jack, that goes to the "tip" connection, the other 2 are used for ground, and battery ground. (just trying to help you get that jack wired right, the jack doesn't get 2 signal wires, (if that's what you meant by "hot x 2 " on the drawing)

 

[saranam]

Lennie, without going any further than the output jack as a start, you have "jack socket" "ground", and "hot x2" written there, that might be a problem, the 3 pins on the output jack are used for ...tip-output signal, ring-battery negative, (it's here that the battery ground is mechanically connected to system ground, completing the preamp circuit), and lastly sleeve, (system ground wire, that connects to all ground connections), so..there's only one "hot" output wire to the jack, that goes to the "tip" connection, the other 2 are used for ground, and battery ground. (just trying to help you get that jack wired right, the jack doesn't get 2 signal wires, (if that's what you meant by "hot x 2 " on the drawing)

Thanks GM sorry for the delay but other things have kept me too usy.Yeah got that in my head now thanks ands i have got the passive working but I cant get a signal through the active side I have resoldered all the joints on the PCb and i have a circuit tested using a small led so may be a component unless you can think of anything else I could test but it would seem that having the circuit but no sound can only be the signal missing but the inputs and outputs must be correct for the passive to work, left scratching my head yet again I am sure I am missing somewthing

cheers
lennie

 

[Growlmonkee]

I was only able to comment on the most simple part of what was obviously wrong, (the wiring at the jack) in your description, and diagram, assuming all the components were working, the description of what was happening at the output jack was wrong, so I chimed in. Even if the diagrams were complete, and the pics showed everything hooked up correctly, there are too many possibilities, even more so, now that you have the passive output working, without having the bass, which include: a bad component, (a wire, a pcb, the jack, the battery connector, a pot), or, still faulty wiring. It's only my opinion that it might be time for an experienced tech to have at it, that might be a bargain, as compared to time spent by you, at this point. That's honestly what I think.