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Double Bass need some help!

K-Funk

K-Funk

Sep 24, 2007
1,182
21
Auburn Hills, MI
#1
I've been playing the electric bass (fretted and fretless) for about 4 or 5 years now. I'm changing majors at school from music, but wish to remain involved in the music department. I have no desire to pursue the euphonium now that I'm changing my major, so at the reccomendation of my professor, I'm picking up the upright.

After messing around on the beast for a few days, I've got my intonation down pretty well (transferring my ear from fretless electric) and am generally doing well teaching myself with a few method books, etc.

I can't afford to just run out and buy a bass right now, so I've gotta choose between the school's two loners: two basses of unknown brand. One is a full-size and the other is a 3/4 scale. What's the "standard", and what would you recommend? I'm about 6'2" with an athletic build and longer arms, if that means anything.

Also, any other advice you could hit me with for the changeover would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!:D
 
#2
Well, if there is a standard, maybe it would be that most basses being made today seem to have a string length (measurement between the nut and bridge) between 41-42". Older basses can have lengths up to 44" and even longer. If you are going to eventually buy a newer instrument, you might start on the bass closer to today's "standard". What is the string length of the 2 school basses? I would probably stay away from anything over 43".

There are other variables, such as body size, the way the bass is set up, that you can take into account, too. Longer arms means you would have an easier time getting around on a bass with wider upper bouts, say, over 20", than someone with shorter arms. If there is a bass teacher at your school, you should talk with them. They can check out the basses and see how they "fit" you.

If the basses are set up poorly (very high strings that can't be lowered, for instance), I would avoid starting on them. You don't want to hurt yourself.
 
#3
yeah.... that's the thing. Both basses have pretty high action. The girl that plays bass in the symphony let me try out her 40's Kay, and it had a fantastic setup; the strings were nice and low. So, there's no way to lower the strings on a double bass yourself? That's another problem for me: the closest luthier is located over two hours from where I live :[ I've got this really old violin (unknown maker, made in 1904 in Kalamazoo, MI) that I had restored, the guy does really good work, it's just that it's a road trip to reach him!
 
#4
K-Funk said:
That's another problem for me: the closest luthier is located over two hours from where I live :[ I've got this really old violin (unknown maker, made in 1904 in Kalamazoo, MI) that I had restored, the guy does really good work, it's just that it's a road trip to reach him!
Click to expand...


My luthier is over 3 hours away. It's no big thing when you need quality work done.
 
#5
very true...

well, I logged about 4 hours on the loaner bass yesterday, and today I got to play this guy's well-set-up Englehardt Swingmaster ES9. What a huge difference!! I could fly on that thing! now I'm tempted to try and find one for myself. He said he got his from Upton, and total cost with a gig bag and bow was $2400. sheesh........ and I guess that's just a beginner model! aren't Englehardt's imported?
 
#6
Engelhardt's are imported . . . from Elk Grove Village, Illinois. Engelhardt-Link bought the templates and plans from the old Kay compnay after Kay went out of business in the late 1960s. $2400 for a WELL SET-UP Engelhardt does not sound bad and vintage Kay's can go for $3K and up.

For that matter, expect to pay from $1800 - $2500 for an "entry level" laminate or hybrid bass. You may get one cheaper somewhere but proceed with caution. Before dropping that much money, I would try a number of basses from dealers who specialize in them. Take a trip to Chicago, NYC or another place where basses abound. There's a great dealer in Grand Rapids as well.

Good luck.

Bass Barrister, who plays the bass and the euphonium but never at the same time.
 
#8
K-Funk... from what I can tell, it sounds like the bridges on these loaners are non-adjustable (meaning their legs/feet don't have a round, turning knob with threaded screw below them), correct? These basses are property of your school, so who knows if they'd cover such a thing, but one option would be to have adjusters installed. Another would be to specify what your ideal string height is (measure the string height of the Kay), and have the bridge re-cut (and possibly the nut, depending on how high that is), resulting in a lower string height. This all depends on whether or not your school would cover the costs (yup, I have a slight idea of what that answer might be). If you do want your own bass, you might just want to put the money you'd spend on a repair to something that isn't even yours towards your own bass (I already hear a mounting cacophony of fff "duhs").
 
#9
actually, just a couple of hours ago I switched my bass out for a third loner they have. It's a 50's Kay plywood with an adjustable bridge, and the bass guy here set it up for me. It's a 3/4 scale and in much better shape than the other one I was using. But, I'm pretty certain I'll eventually be searching for my own instrument fairly soon.
 
#11
yeah, with my funds combined with the International Bank of Dad, I've got roughly $2500 to go for a bass, maybe a little more. Englehardts and old Kays are looking better and better...... but I'm going to shop around in Lansing and Grand Rapids first.
 
#13
Kevin Hsieh said:
you could also try an upton laminate. :] be sure to check out your other options!
Click to expand...

absolutely. All options are open at this point. I just need to try out some basses and see what feels good (and is built well). I'm really digging this Kay though. After Andy lower the action on it it plays really well. The problem is, they supplied me with a French bow. Aren't German bows supposed to be easier to use?
 
#14
K-Funk said:
absolutely. All options are open at this point. I just need to try out some basses and see what feels good (and is built well). I'm really digging this Kay though. After Andy lower the action on it it plays really well. The problem is, they supplied me with a French bow. Aren't German bows supposed to be easier to use?
Click to expand...

Beware of the trap into which many EB to DB converts fall. That is, lowering the string height so that it "feels good." I think it's fair to say that what most newbie players think is a good height is usually way lower than what is typical or advised when learning. (Yes, I know that there are pros who play DB with very low heights but that is a matter of style best chosen after learning, IMO.)
 
#16
How high is it? How many mm off the end of the fingerboard are the G and E strings? Measure from the surface of the board to the bottom of the string. I usually do this by placing a ruler against the outside edge of the fingerboard.
 

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