I need a new pickguard for my Squier jazz bass. I was wondering if a standard fender 10-hole would suffice.
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New pickguard
- Thread starter jblmusic1994
- Start date
How old is it and what series does it belong to?
I had a Standard Jazz that I mounted a Fender Black Pearl pickguard onto.
It's original matte-black pickguard fit perfectly onto an Affinity Jazz, but the Fender guard needed some…massaging. Specifically, I had to take a Dremel to the neck pocket and alongside the control plate. Some time later, I had to do the same for the pickup hole when I put it's original pickup back on. The screws were close enough to stay on, but it was cutting it pretty close.
So, would it be a close fit? Probably, but don't be surprised if you need to apply a little elbow grease.
I had a Standard Jazz that I mounted a Fender Black Pearl pickguard onto.
It's original matte-black pickguard fit perfectly onto an Affinity Jazz, but the Fender guard needed some…massaging. Specifically, I had to take a Dremel to the neck pocket and alongside the control plate. Some time later, I had to do the same for the pickup hole when I put it's original pickup back on. The screws were close enough to stay on, but it was cutting it pretty close.
So, would it be a close fit? Probably, but don't be surprised if you need to apply a little elbow grease.
if i remember correctly the squier and fender pickguards have different screw patterns. some will line up and some won't. you could use a power drill to get a hole going for the new screws- or just screw them in like i did 
I'm not sure what kind :/ it it natural wood finish, with black block inlays all the way to the 1st fret and has stock Duncan j style pickups. I think there is 1 kind like this. Maybe modified jazz? I have no clue :/
Sounds like a Vintage Modified Jazz. Is this it?
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I've never even picked one up to try, let alone own and modify. (the natural maple look really isn't my thing)
Here's a couple of possibilities;
1. Remove the guard, trace it out EXACTLY (include the screw holes) onto graph paper and take it to a music store that stocks replacement pickguards. Hold it up to what they've got and see if it's a close match. If I remember correctly, the guards with the notch in the neck pocket are for the American-made Fenders. I suspect the standard MIM's would be a bit closer, but don't hold me to that.
2. I've recently been looking into having a custom-made pickguard and have found a number of places that stock a variety of types. Some of them will even reproduce it with a new color scheme. You just have to mail your original to them (x2 the shipping, though).
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www.terrapinguitars.com
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…just to name a few.
If you can't get a solid confirmation on "this fits that" from here, but don't want to buy one that "almost, but not quite, fits", give some of them a call.
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I've never even picked one up to try, let alone own and modify. (the natural maple look really isn't my thing)
Here's a couple of possibilities;
1. Remove the guard, trace it out EXACTLY (include the screw holes) onto graph paper and take it to a music store that stocks replacement pickguards. Hold it up to what they've got and see if it's a close match. If I remember correctly, the guards with the notch in the neck pocket are for the American-made Fenders. I suspect the standard MIM's would be a bit closer, but don't hold me to that.
2. I've recently been looking into having a custom-made pickguard and have found a number of places that stock a variety of types. Some of them will even reproduce it with a new color scheme. You just have to mail your original to them (x2 the shipping, though).
Invalid Link Removed
www.terrapinguitars.com
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
…just to name a few.
If you can't get a solid confirmation on "this fits that" from here, but don't want to buy one that "almost, but not quite, fits", give some of them a call.
I want a black picgard for my '08 Am St P5 to replace the standard white one of my Cola Red P5. So far, Jeannies, whom I've used in the past to make two pgards for my Skyline JoBo 5er, still needs my original pgard off my P5 to make a new one.
Thought by now, they'd have a template of a '08 P5 in stock. They say they have made one for a 2010 P5. I could chance it but not sure it would fit my '08. I imagine it would though. But they don't want to chance it. I can't disable my P5 for that long; it does all my gigs these days.
Maybe I should Plasti-size it or paint it. Anyone have good results just painting a white pgard flat black?
Thought by now, they'd have a template of a '08 P5 in stock. They say they have made one for a 2010 P5. I could chance it but not sure it would fit my '08. I imagine it would though. But they don't want to chance it. I can't disable my P5 for that long; it does all my gigs these days.
Maybe I should Plasti-size it or paint it. Anyone have good results just painting a white pgard flat black?
First, you need to lightly texture your PG to give the paint something besides smooth to adhere to.
400-600 grit wet sandpaper is good, but even a ScotchBrite will help--the rough green side of some kitchen sponges is pretty much the same thing.
You want to use plastic-specific paint, so Krylon Fusion is probably the way to go, if you don't want to do the research.
All good paintjobs, from cars to guitars to bikes or restored Coke machines have three parts, with multiple coats of each.
Spend the extra $$ for a can of primer to improve adhesion under the paint and a gloss or flat clear coat on top.
Wash and de-grease the PG after roughing the surface.
Practice spray painting scraps to learn the right distance and technique before ruining your part.
Wait for a day with mild temps and low humidity if you can.
Let the primer/paint/clear fully cure (or not) before the next coat, according to product directions.
Or just spray and pray.
I wish I had heard Keith's advice back when I tried painting a white pickguard black. The directions on the can said to wait about an hour between coats. A day in-between would've probably worked better. That and the sanding part.
As far as the clear coat goes, I'd recommend doing at least two coats…possibly even three, with a day between coats.
My old results weren't bad, but I was getting a slowly-forming "smudge" near the pickup where my thumb was anchored while playing the E-string. THAT was probably because of the lack of sanding and not enough time between coats.
As far as the clear coat goes, I'd recommend doing at least two coats…possibly even three, with a day between coats.
My old results weren't bad, but I was getting a slowly-forming "smudge" near the pickup where my thumb was anchored while playing the E-string. THAT was probably because of the lack of sanding and not enough time between coats.
