Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Nitro over tung oil
- Thread starter cstar
- Start date
Hopkins
Commercial User
Honestly, I wouldn't want to spray nitro over any kind of oil. I have never tried it, but I don't see it adhering correctly.
gbarcus
Commercial User
- Jul 20, 2008
- 398
- 12
- Disclosures
- Owner of Barcus Basses barcusbasses.com
Since tung oil typically isn't very thick, I would just sand it completely off down to the bare wood.
Although, if you don't get it all off, you could see variations in coloring once the nitro has been applied.
Although, if you don't get it all off, you could see variations in coloring once the nitro has been applied.
I talked to a buddy who turns fine bowls and wooden artifacts and he uses a lot of Tung oil.
His words - pretty much of a quote: "No way! Oil (eg: Tung oil) will soak into deeper layers than one might think and there's no way to get it out or off the surface until you've cut a lot of wood out of the body".
Once Tung's in the wood, nothing else will likely work over it ever again. There MAY be an exception to this thought and his experiences, but I'd not bet on it.
Well --- come to think of it: transmission fluid might successfully go on over Tung.
His words - pretty much of a quote: "No way! Oil (eg: Tung oil) will soak into deeper layers than one might think and there's no way to get it out or off the surface until you've cut a lot of wood out of the body".
Once Tung's in the wood, nothing else will likely work over it ever again. There MAY be an exception to this thought and his experiences, but I'd not bet on it.
Well --- come to think of it: transmission fluid might successfully go on over Tung.
adam.beauchene
Commercial User
I feel like I'm going against the grain of the other comments here, but I think it won't be a problem so long as the tung oil is sufficiently polymerized. I wouldn't spray nitro over tung that I applied last week, or even last month-- but a year ago, it will probably be fine. I'm finding that a wash coat of shellac (1 lb cut or less), followed by a fine sanding and wipedown with lacquer thinner just prior to spraying, makes nitro lay down fine on everything I've tried to far.
I'll be watching and hopefully eating my friend's words for him.
If this works, I'll cut that page out of my book of experiences and add a new chapter.
If this works, I'll cut that page out of my book of experiences and add a new chapter.
Hmmmm....I'm not sure you're getting very good advice so far.
First, there are different types of Tung. Some has dryers in it and some does not. Pure tung doesn't really ever dry, but the stuff you get at home improvement stores does. The safe bet is to call the manufacturer (their number is often on the side of the can). If the number isn't on the can, look it up online.
I did this when I wanted to put poly over tung. I called Minwax and they recommended that I wait 14-21 days and then sand lightly with 220 to create tooth for the poly to adhere to. I followed their instructions and have had no problem whatsoever.
I have no experience with nitro, but your best bet is to take the advice of the chemists who work for the manufacturers. They know what they're doing. The rest of us would just be guessing.
First, there are different types of Tung. Some has dryers in it and some does not. Pure tung doesn't really ever dry, but the stuff you get at home improvement stores does. The safe bet is to call the manufacturer (their number is often on the side of the can). If the number isn't on the can, look it up online.
I did this when I wanted to put poly over tung. I called Minwax and they recommended that I wait 14-21 days and then sand lightly with 220 to create tooth for the poly to adhere to. I followed their instructions and have had no problem whatsoever.
I have no experience with nitro, but your best bet is to take the advice of the chemists who work for the manufacturers. They know what they're doing. The rest of us would just be guessing.
I've used nitro over oil with no problems but I'm not sure if I am clear on what the OP is asking. If you are talking about spraying nitro over an instrument previously finished in tung oil, that I would avoid though I cant say it wouldnt work. On the other hand I sometimes use oil before my nitro when I want the grain to pop on a piece of wood and I dont mind the amber tone, essentially using the oil as a stain. Again I would probably not use tung oil. I prefer linseed oil as it doesnt dry into a film like tung oil. Its important to let the oil dry at least 3 days or so but I've never had issues spraying over linseed. The vinyl sealer I use under my nitro also seems to a fine job of adhering to the linseed oil once its dry.
Regarding the OP. Whatever you are finishing over you'll want to sand it back a bit to remove contaminents (dirt, skin oil) from the surface.
Regarding the OP. Whatever you are finishing over you'll want to sand it back a bit to remove contaminents (dirt, skin oil) from the surface.
adam.beauchene
Commercial User
I've used pure tung oil (Rockler's) extensively, before I started spraying nitro. It does indeed dry by itself, it just takes a very long time, hence my warning to wait until it is sufficiently polymerized. Not everyone in the LC is just guessing, thanks.
Please forgive me for hijacking slightly but I was only last night wondering a very similar thing although I have a bass body that I finished in Danish oil which has part linseed oil in the mix along with a small part wax I believe. It was applied about 9 months ago so is well cure and looks great but it offers pretty much zero protection to the body.
I have found a great source for nitro in a can here in tjhe U.K. And I'm in the process of vintage tinting the neck but will I be able to coat the body after all the Danish oil? Of course after sanding it back as far as I can. Thoughts?
I would be concerned about wax in the finish. Maybe someone else here will.have more specific knowledge than me but wax is way up the list of things I wouldnt want under a clear cloat. If I were to refinish an instrument thays got wax mixed in an oil finish I would be inclined to sand the finish off completely. Again, someone else may have firsthand experience with this that I dont.
Yes I have reservations myself. I know I'll not be able to remove all the Danish oil as it has so much of it soaked in there being the type of oil that doesn't just sit on the surface of the wood. Shame because it looks stunning and is well sealed from moisture but is absolutely not ding resistant. It's a very light alder body which has a beautiful grain surprisingly but it is just so soft and marks so easily.
I guess if it gets so bad I could always sand it back as far as I can then just try it with the nitro and if that fails I'd just have to sand it back again and stick with the oil. Not sure if I have time for all that though!
Thanks for helping
If I were you I and seriously considering this I would find another piece of alder and use it as a sample. Apply your original oil/wax finish and then let it dry suitably. This will give you a test piece that you can try different finishes and techniques on without creating an issue with your finished instrument.
I'm always happy to help but unfortunately I dont have the practical experience to answer your question conclusively but some body here does. Good luck.
