Looks great, what size router bit did you use for the pickup routes?, im doing the same to mine but im not sure which bit makes the corners that tight
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Nordy Big Single P'upgrade for Squier DJAV
- Thread starter tedsalt
- Start date
Thanks skiscem!
A not to scale Nordy Big Single 5 (P2) template is located here - http://www.bestbassgear.com/diagrams/nordstrand-dimensions-5-string-soapbars.jpg
RO.1875
radius = .1875 = 3/16; therefore diameter = 3/8
I ended up using a Whiteside # 1021 Straight Cut Double Flute Bit 3/8" D x 3/4" CL, 2-1/4" OL, and a Whiteside Precision 3/8" OD Template Guide Bushing. I did not use a top-bearing router bit. The bushing served as the top-bearing.
I bought the acrylic P2 template from bestbassgear (http://www.bestbassgear.com/bass-pickup-routing-templates.htm#), then to adjust for the depth of the route, I used 1/2" plywood to make a working template. It took me four tries to make a good working template from my original. This was good practice for the actual routing I was to do on the bass body.
After dis-assembling the bass, I covered the top of the body in blue painters tape to protect the finish. I used double-sided tape to set the working template on the bass in the location I wanted it. Then more blue tape to hold it down. Tape it good, as the template may still move a little due to the forces of the router. I centered the P2 template over the jazz pickup cavities. This worked well.
body after routing with wide blue painters tape covering top. notice the expanded route is approximately the same depth as the existing j pup route (where the black (shielding?) paint remains).
*** blue painters tape may have an adverse affect on some finishes. test the tape on the finish in an area that won't be noticed. I don't believe it affects any of the Squier CV or VM bass finishes; it didn't mine anyhow.
A not to scale Nordy Big Single 5 (P2) template is located here - http://www.bestbassgear.com/diagrams/nordstrand-dimensions-5-string-soapbars.jpg
RO.1875
radius = .1875 = 3/16; therefore diameter = 3/8
I ended up using a Whiteside # 1021 Straight Cut Double Flute Bit 3/8" D x 3/4" CL, 2-1/4" OL, and a Whiteside Precision 3/8" OD Template Guide Bushing. I did not use a top-bearing router bit. The bushing served as the top-bearing.
I bought the acrylic P2 template from bestbassgear (http://www.bestbassgear.com/bass-pickup-routing-templates.htm#), then to adjust for the depth of the route, I used 1/2" plywood to make a working template. It took me four tries to make a good working template from my original. This was good practice for the actual routing I was to do on the bass body.
After dis-assembling the bass, I covered the top of the body in blue painters tape to protect the finish. I used double-sided tape to set the working template on the bass in the location I wanted it. Then more blue tape to hold it down. Tape it good, as the template may still move a little due to the forces of the router. I centered the P2 template over the jazz pickup cavities. This worked well.
body after routing with wide blue painters tape covering top. notice the expanded route is approximately the same depth as the existing j pup route (where the black (shielding?) paint remains).
*** blue painters tape may have an adverse affect on some finishes. test the tape on the finish in an area that won't be noticed. I don't believe it affects any of the Squier CV or VM bass finishes; it didn't mine anyhow.
Sorry selowitch, I didn't understand your question earlier. Now I do. It's just a wire lug (crimp terminal?) you can buy at radio shack. In my case I crimped one end around a wire, and screwed the other end into the bottom center of the paint shielded pickup cavities. Then I ran the wire to the control cavity to connect grounds. All grounds must be connected as one.
I crimped the lug so it would be flat when screwed into the bottom center of the (paint shielded) pickup cavity.
For passive basses (maybe active also, not sure) you also need to have a wire from the bridge to the common control cavity ground also.
If you shield your pickup cavities with copper foil, you can just solder the wire to the copper. It may be a more durable connection if you use the wire lugs and screw them in though. I found that using copper foil in the pickup cavities was a tight fit and installing the pickups scrunched the copper foil in places, so I pulled the foil out and used four coats of shielding paint from stewmac to shield the pickup cavities. I still use the copper foil to shield the control cavity.
I crimped the lug so it would be flat when screwed into the bottom center of the (paint shielded) pickup cavity.
For passive basses (maybe active also, not sure) you also need to have a wire from the bridge to the common control cavity ground also.
If you shield your pickup cavities with copper foil, you can just solder the wire to the copper. It may be a more durable connection if you use the wire lugs and screw them in though. I found that using copper foil in the pickup cavities was a tight fit and installing the pickups scrunched the copper foil in places, so I pulled the foil out and used four coats of shielding paint from stewmac to shield the pickup cavities. I still use the copper foil to shield the control cavity.
Thanks!!! im planning to re-create my stolen squier, i had someone do the cavities for me back then, im a bit more confident now so im gonna do it myself, this is what it used to be
I'm loving my Big Singles the way they are, but I think the varitone will open up my tonal options. I'll try to get some clips up when it's all done.
Skiscem -
Just do your homework up front, practice routing by making a working template (remember, routing is directional), practice routing more if necessary, and plan, measure three times, and take your time. Good luck with your project!
Just do your homework up front, practice routing by making a working template (remember, routing is directional), practice routing more if necessary, and plan, measure three times, and take your time. Good luck with your project!
Thanks, im doing lots of research first and i have scrap wood ready to be routed, i have access to a laser cutter so i can make my own templates, shoot me a pm if you need one, i can cut any shape.
Laser cutter? Sweet! Don't burn up those wood based working templates!
It sounds like you're on the right track. I'll keep your offer in mind. I'm good right now though, thanks!Post your project as you go along. I'd like to see it, and it's a good way for others to learn how to do this stuff. I've been wanting to do work like this for a long time, but I've always been apprehensive about it. It does take some tools and some tool skills. Mostly it takes research and a can do attitude!
As the varitone wouldn't fit because the fourth pot hole was too close to the side of the control cavity, I had to take some copper shielding out and dremel some wood out in this area.
Varitone rotary switch now fits without any obstructions
Took the varitone back out and re-shielded this area. Tacked the pieces of copper together with some solder. Installed the varitone and kill switch, and soldered everything up.
Plugged into my amp, and ... nothing. Switch the kill switch. Nothing. Changed the output jack leads in case I goofed that up. Nothing. Arrrggh.
After troubleshooting for a little while, I ended up disconnecting the kill switch and going directly to the output jack. Plugged back into the amp, and it worked. I'll worry about the kill switch later. I can always use my tuner mute!
Varitone rotary switch now fits without any obstructions
Took the varitone back out and re-shielded this area. Tacked the pieces of copper together with some solder. Installed the varitone and kill switch, and soldered everything up.
Plugged into my amp, and ... nothing. Switch the kill switch. Nothing. Changed the output jack leads in case I goofed that up. Nothing. Arrrggh.
After troubleshooting for a little while, I ended up disconnecting the kill switch and going directly to the output jack. Plugged back into the amp, and it worked. I'll worry about the kill switch later. I can always use my tuner mute!
Laser cutter? Sweet! Don't burn up those wood based working templates!
Post your project as you go along. I'd like to see it, and it's a good way for others to learn how to do this stuff. I've been wanting to do work like this for a long time, but I've always been apprehensive about it. It does take some tools and some tool skills. Mostly it takes research and a can do attitude!
Im actually using 3/8" thick acrylic sheets for the template so they can be used many times, i just need to get my own router, a couple bits and im good, i will sure post my project and thanks for the whole tutorial, very informative
Skiscem - that was one badass Squier! I like that flat black look. Sorry to hear it was stolen. That just plain sucks!!! I don't know how I missed that post/pic. I think I follow TB too much at work or on my phone, where I don't get the pics. I think Tabdog (?) has/had one like that too. That's where I got the idea for my project.
Best wishes for your project. May this one turn out better than the one you lost!!!
My next step is to install a better nut on this puppy. I've ordered a couple of tusk nut blanks and a set of bass nut files. Someday maybe I'll put a brass nut and bridge on it. I've got a good source for brass at a shop here called metalbythefoot.com. In the mean time, the hi mass bridge that's on here isn't too bad.
Best wishes for your project. May this one turn out better than the one you lost!!!
My next step is to install a better nut on this puppy. I've ordered a couple of tusk nut blanks and a set of bass nut files. Someday maybe I'll put a brass nut and bridge on it. I've got a good source for brass at a shop here called metalbythefoot.com. In the mean time, the hi mass bridge that's on here isn't too bad.
I haven't been that wild about the varitone, so today I took it out. Rewired using 250k linear taper control pots and a 250k audio taper tone pot, and and orange drop cap .047 uF. I had been using 250k audio taper control pots and a 250k linear taper tone pot. All are/were CTS. Also wired in a DPDT on/on switch for series/parallel. Not liking the tone as much as I did with the varitone, as it doesn't have the full range that I like. It's missing that high end definition. I want it all. As I still have an extra pot hole in the body, in the morning I'm gonna replace the .047 orange drop with the varitone.
So I'll end up with V/V/T/varitone/series/parallel. I should be able to find something I like, and will prolly find several settings I like ...
So I'll end up with V/V/T/varitone/series/parallel. I should be able to find something I like, and will prolly find several settings I like ...
Ok, it's back where I want it, with the tone I'm looking for. Using two CTS 250k linear taper control pots, one CTS 250k audio taper tone pot, and a 6 position varitone switch, along with a DPDT on/on series/parallel switch.
Still to do -
black pickup screws
chrome straplock buttons
hipshot chrome 3 string retainer
hipshot vintage bridge?
maybe ultralite machines?
It's getting there ... slowly but surely!
Still to do -
black pickup screws
chrome straplock buttons
hipshot chrome 3 string retainer
hipshot vintage bridge?
maybe ultralite machines?
It's getting there ... slowly but surely!
I want to do this with a white one and Big Splits, but AWESOME JOB on yours!
I had the Hipshot retainer on my old one, it was a fantastic upgrade.
Always wanted to do Hipshot ULs and an A-Style bridge on a SDAJV. Felt like that would make a really good bass, MUCH BETTER.
I had the Hipshot retainer on my old one, it was a fantastic upgrade.
Always wanted to do Hipshot ULs and an A-Style bridge on a SDAJV. Felt like that would make a really good bass, MUCH BETTER.
^^ Thanks rojo!
I like the idea of the Hipshot hardware because it would make changing strings so much easier, and keep the strings from contacting the body.
I'm kind of up in the air about whether I'd use the vintage or an A or B style bridge, but I like the aesthetics of their latest vintage bridge and it's made of brass, so it may be heavy enough to do the trick.
I like the idea of the Hipshot hardware because it would make changing strings so much easier, and keep the strings from contacting the body.
I'm kind of up in the air about whether I'd use the vintage or an A or B style bridge, but I like the aesthetics of their latest vintage bridge and it's made of brass, so it may be heavy enough to do the trick.
ted, great work
i found using 500k pots on single nordies brings out some nice detail without getting brittle
Thanks m.oreilly! I've been considering 500k pots. I may try that sometime also.
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/pot-shootout-250k-vs-500k-audio-vs-linear-671456/ is an interesting thread regarding different pots, however, when I listened to the clips, I didn't really hear much difference. Of course, I was using some of the cheapest iPod earbuds imaginable, which probably didn't help. I'll have to check it out more thru some better speakers ...
Of course, the best test is to just throw 'em in and run it thru your own rig! Which I will probably do at some point ...
