NordyMute - level of decay

[ZB5]

I just picked up a NordyMute to try in the never ending quest to get the right muted tone that doesn’t impact intonation. While it’s only minimally impacting intonation (enough I could live with considering it wasn’t exactly perfect for guys like Jamerson), the level of mute is really severe, there’s basically no decay whatsoever. If you listen to Motown or stuff the Wrecking Crew did, while there was a faster decay than what is a modern tone, the notes were still ringing, just without the overtones. Have measured my bridge to make sure size was correct, played around with position and angling, but can only get a barely usable tone for what I’m going for with it barely touching the strings, which of course runs into issues if I ever pluck toward the bridge, as I’ve accidentally knocked it off during busier runs.

If anyone has any helpful hints would be grateful. I love the look of this thing, really elegant, but felt taped over the bridge is a much more usable tone, just not that nice to look at. Before buying this considered a bridge cover with foam, but I like the on-off flexibility something like NordyMute delivers. The only thing I’m loving with it so far is for deeper dub/reggae sort of thing. Would love to make this little tool work better for my needs, considered trying to cut the neoprene a touch wider for the openings, but obviously don’t want to unless I’ve exhausted other options as it definitely cost a pretty little penny!

 

[sunbeast]

A couple thoughts-
How are you measuring your string-spacing? You should measure from center of string to center of string for each string. Being off one mm can make a big difference as some of the strings will be pushed laterally on one side rather than pinched lightly from both sides.

if you look at the string grooves, you’ll see that one side pinches in together and the other is a bit wider. Put the tighter pinched side closest to the bridge.

I assume you are pushing the mute right up against the saddles? With some bridges the intonation screws protrude in front of the saddle and make this impossible without picking up shorter screws or cutting the current ones to size. Some bridges also make this difficult- I’m a big fan of the Hipshot Model A bridge, but the bridge design limits how I can mount a NordyMute

If your intonation settings create a very extreme angle of your saddles from E to G you’ll want to avoid angling the mute completely to the saddle angle- obviously the cuts run straight/perpendicular so any angling will put extra muting/lateral-twisting pressure on the strings.

What strings are you using? I’ve had luck with a variety from stainless Roto rounds to TI flats to tapewounds, but I imagine tension and size matter somewhat.

One thing to consider with the old recordings is that they tend to have a fair amount of compression added. That said, I feel like the NordyMute should be able to give you light muting-

The part about it falling off while playing is a real concern though depending on how you play. When I pick without a mute I tend to palm-mute near the saddles, and my hand still tries to naturally gravitate there even with the mechanical mute in place which makes it in the way! With some practice I don’t have this issue though. I don’t have an issue knocking it off playing fingerstyle because I tend to play over one of the pickups, so a generous distance away.

 

[ZB5]

A couple thoughts-
How are you measuring your string-spacing? You should measure from center of string to center of string for each string. Being off one mm can make a big difference as some of the strings will be pushed laterally on one side rather than pinched lightly from both sides.

if you look at the string grooves, you’ll see that one side pinches in together and the other is a bit wider. Put the tighter pinched side closest to the bridge.

I assume you are pushing the mute right up against the saddles? With some bridges the intonation screws protrude in front of the saddle and make this impossible without picking up shorter screws or cutting the current ones to size. Some bridges also make this difficult- I’m a big fan of the Hipshot Model A bridge, but the bridge design limits how I can mount a NordyMute

If your intonation settings create a very extreme angle of your saddles from E to G you’ll want to avoid angling the mute completely to the saddle angle- obviously the cuts run straight/perpendicular so any angling will put extra muting/lateral-twisting pressure on the strings.

What strings are you using? I’ve had luck with a variety from stainless Roto rounds to TI flats to tapewounds, but I imagine tension and size matter somewhat.

One thing to consider with the old recordings is that they tend to have a fair amount of compression added. That said, I feel like the NordyMute should be able to give you light muting-

The part about it falling off while playing is a real concern though depending on how you play. When I pick without a mute I tend to palm-mute near the saddles, and my hand still tries to naturally gravitate there even with the mechanical mute in place which makes it in the way! With some practice I don’t have this issue though. I don’t have an issue knocking it off playing fingerstyle because I tend to play over one of the pickups, so a generous distance away.

Thank you so much for this thoughtful response, I did measure from center of string. I also am pushing up close to the saddles but the intonation screws do protrude from the bridge, and have the tighter openings on the bridge side. I have the standard low mass bridge on my MIA P, my Jazz has a high mass and tried it on there after posting, the level of decay is more useable there, so it may be the bridge. As for strings I have TI Flats on both of my basses.

On the falling off part, that’s due to the minimal application of the mute. I pick near the neck, usually fingers just in front of or behind the neck / P pickup on either case. I think it’s the light application with the fact my forearm is just above the bridge when playing pick style.

The mute effect does feel slightly less extreme as it’s sitting on the bass, wondering if I should exercise a little more patience. The compression note on older recordings is definitely something to keep in mind, I’m not playing with any compression normally.

I may have also had different expectations on the result than what it delivers. I’ve gotten very used to the felt method taped over the bridge and the level of mute that employs, which cuts out all the overtones but does still have some sustain. The bridge comment you made is interesting, I definitely hadn’t considered that. I may just have to use it on the J for now with the high mass bridge, or take a look at cutting the intonation screws on the P.

Really appreciate the response!

 

[sunbeast]

Good luck! To me the NordyMute seems like a pretty genius novel solution (I’ve tried lots of failed makeshift removeable mute ideas and the Nord one was like “I shoulda thought of that!!”). It definitely isn’t a perfect solution for everybody though!

I’m super used to palm-muting while picking for a similar effect, but I like how the Nord frees my right hand to move around for different tones while retaining the muting. For finger style it’s just a new vibe I can use in a song without having to fiddle too much with installing/removing/adjusting tuning/intonation between songs.

My Lakland P had intonation screws that protrude that needed trimming for the Nord, but doing so really worked well.

 

[ZB5]

That’s really great info re: your Lakland P. It wasn’t something I’d considered but may go down that road. For a lot of stuff I like to play (old soul, rock and roll, jazz), I love the tone with a mute, particularly that on a P. Thanks again!

 

[thegeoffsmith]

Just got a Nordy mute and been trying it on all my P Basses. Yes, the intensity of the muting and lack of decay is intense. I also am mostly a palm-muter but wanted to give this a try. I had a thought: what is the best way to trim the rubber foam to make the spaces a bit wider and would that make the muting less "muted"?

 

[sunbeast]

Just got a Nordy mute and been trying it on all my P Basses. Yes, the intensity of the muting and lack of decay is intense. I also am mostly a palm-muter but wanted to give this a try. I had a thought: what is the best way to trim the rubber foam to make the spaces a bit wider and would that make the muting less "muted"?

Do your bridges also have protruding screws that limit how close the mute can be mounted to the saddles? Ideally you want the mute right up against the saddles for the least amount of muting. Also to repeat what I mentioned earlier in this thread about making sure to have the tighter side of the mute grooves oriented towards the saddles. As far as trimming goes I’d guess an Exacto knife is your best bet. I think the original grooves were cut with a laser if I remember correctly

 

[thegeoffsmith]

Do your bridges also have protruding screws that limit how close the mute can be mounted to the saddles? Ideally you want the mute right up against the saddles for the least amount of muting. Also to repeat what I mentioned earlier in this thread about making sure to have the tighter side of the mute grooves oriented towards the saddles. As far as trimming goes I’d guess an Exacto knife is your best bet. I think the original grooves were cut with a laser if I remember correctly

Thank you so much!!!!!! Getting right up next to the saddles is night and day. Wow. It sounds like what I was wanting it to sound like.