In my experience, other coated strings can sound good and can last a bit longer than normal strings; but no other coated string has ever lasted as long for me as Elixirs. In addition to the durability of the coating, I think it is to do with the fact that Elixirs may be the only coating that is applied after the entire string is made. Effectively sealing out not only oxidation, but also crud buildup. Whereas most other brand coatings are applied to the winding and then wound onto the core. This leaves space for crud to build up between the windings, just like any other string.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
NPS String Experimentation
- Thread starter invalidprotocol
- Start date
The brightest, clangiest, longest lasting strings I've ever used are Dean Markley SR2000's, and I didn't like Blue Steels at all.
I've used D'Addario Pro Steels for the last couple years. They are good, but don't last as long, are pretty stiff, and sound much different than the SR2000's...not bad, but a very different bright.
I've used D'Addario Pro Steels for the last couple years. They are good, but don't last as long, are pretty stiff, and sound much different than the SR2000's...not bad, but a very different bright.
I've got DR Dragon Skins coated strings on my two main basses. The B string is dead and sounds too different than the E-G, but the E-G are nice...bright enough, and more flexible than anything I've used in years. I'd stick with them if it weren't for that awful B string.
I love the 4 string Dragon Skins, but I haven't tried the B string on anything yet because of the teeny .125 size. I should try it, but I've never been able to get a good B string sound out of anything that small. I need at least a .135.
Elixirs also cost 3 times as much
come on man, don't be spreading false info like that. They cost about $10 more than comparable DRs.
I stock up on DR's when they have a BOGO sale which makes them about $15 a set compared to $35 for Elixir.
Looks like a couple more sets of strings coming up to TB classifieds near you.
I've taken the Dunlop SS off. I like the feel of these strings but steel just isn't warm enough for what I'm after. They don't fit the theme of this post anyway.
I gave the set of Dean Markley NPS Blue Steels a good cleaning and put them back on for the time being. They just sound good on this bass. I went ahead and ordered two more sets to tide me over for now. I'm debating even trying the DR Nickel Low Riders and thinking about skipping on to coated. I'll save those DR's for my jazz and compare them to the Sunbeams and Foderas.
Now as for coated strings... I did not like DR Dragon skins or their colored strings (Black Beauties, etc.) which were nothing more than coated Sunbeams. Sunbeams should stay naked! I didn't like the texture to the Dragon skins and I didn't care for the fingerstyle tone of the Black Beauties.
I'll give the Elixirs a shot. What would I liken their tension too? That way I make sure to get the correct gauge.
Also, what about Cleartone or Rotosound Nexus? Any comments on either of these?
I've taken the Dunlop SS off. I like the feel of these strings but steel just isn't warm enough for what I'm after. They don't fit the theme of this post anyway.
I gave the set of Dean Markley NPS Blue Steels a good cleaning and put them back on for the time being. They just sound good on this bass. I went ahead and ordered two more sets to tide me over for now. I'm debating even trying the DR Nickel Low Riders and thinking about skipping on to coated. I'll save those DR's for my jazz and compare them to the Sunbeams and Foderas.
Now as for coated strings... I did not like DR Dragon skins or their colored strings (Black Beauties, etc.) which were nothing more than coated Sunbeams. Sunbeams should stay naked! I didn't like the texture to the Dragon skins and I didn't care for the fingerstyle tone of the Black Beauties.
I'll give the Elixirs a shot. What would I liken their tension too? That way I make sure to get the correct gauge.
Also, what about Cleartone or Rotosound Nexus? Any comments on either of these?
The tension with Elixirs is tough to really pin down, because the default sets are not balanced from string to string. Look at their tension chart and you'll see what I mean.
they are a little less flexible than comparable hex core uncoated strings. though not nearly as much as they used to be, due to the newer nanoweb coating. I would compare them to SIT rock bright nickels or Daddario XL, which I feel are both slightly higher tension hex core strings, when strung on my basses.
But as I said, you can custom build a set in the nickel plated version. So you can effectively make a balanced .105 set or a somewhat balanced .100 set.
they are a little less flexible than comparable hex core uncoated strings. though not nearly as much as they used to be, due to the newer nanoweb coating. I would compare them to SIT rock bright nickels or Daddario XL, which I feel are both slightly higher tension hex core strings, when strung on my basses.
But as I said, you can custom build a set in the nickel plated version. So you can effectively make a balanced .105 set or a somewhat balanced .100 set.
Tension wise, Elixirs feel just like D'Addarios in the same gauge, just very slippery. I think you should try them or the EXP's, again, they were not my cup of tea but they are unique. The only problem I had was the Elixirs shredded slightly when I played with a pick but it didn't seem to effect the tone.
Been using the Foderas on my jazz. Loving these strings on that bass. Just a hair more tension which is actually a good thing. More clarity and growl. Going to play out with them tomorrow and see what they do for me in the mix.
As compared to Sunbeams? I've been curious about Foderas for a bass of mine that needs round-core flexibility. It's been wearing dragon skins for awhile. Sunbeams didn't do good things tonally on this bass. but I'm curious about Fodera.
Yes, compared to Sunbeams.
Sadly my A string just went dead with only about 12 hours on them. Like shifting intonation dead. The rest of the strings are broken in but still sound great. I must have had a slight twist on the string when I moved them over from the Schecter to the Fender. I am super careful not to allow that to happen but I can't imagine why else it would have. Bummer.
Sadly my A string just went dead with only about 12 hours on them. Like shifting intonation dead. The rest of the strings are broken in but still sound great. I must have had a slight twist on the string when I moved them over from the Schecter to the Fender. I am super careful not to allow that to happen but I can't imagine why else it would have. Bummer.
I ended up releasing the tension on the A and straightening out the string before tightening it back up. The string is behaving better. Enough to squeeze out a few more sessions.
your strings are at the end of their life at 16 hours? for me, that's the beginning of their life
Yes. Depending on the particular brand of nickels, anywhere from 10-24 hours of play time. I don't sweat a lot but my ph doesn't agree with them.
Still playing on the Fodera's and I'm at the 24 hour mark now. Running my tone at 60-70% and still going strong. Noticing some loss of sustain but these strings remain crunchy sounding and translate the wood warmth. If these were Sunbeams they would be dark sounding even at 100% open tone or genuinely dead. It will be interesting to see just how far I can push these Fodera's before they die or I hate the tone.
The bite they retain reminds me of stainless steel strings, just with warmth.
The bite they retain reminds me of stainless steel strings, just with warmth.
Latest posts
-
-
Curious what the percentage of bass players use rounds vs flats is.- Latest: Watchootognbout
-
-
