Following on from my previous threads where I ignored the collective TB wisdom and headed to Chicago last October, and an aborted attempt to get to New Orleans this year (Thanks to Taylor Swift!), I took myself to Lisbon in Portugal for a little holiday.
Thought I'd post a wee report on the trip, in case anyone's thinking of heading there.
Day 1: Arrival from Dublin@1045. Bought a Navegante card (basically a pre-paid card covering ALL of Lisbon's transport system...Metro, trams, buses, ferries and local regional trains ) and loaded up with 30 Euro credit. A quick trip using 2 metro lines and a bit of an uphill walk got me to my AirBnB where my hostess got me settled in. Had a bit of a nap, then walked to the National Tile Museum, (about 20 minutes away, stopping at a local restaurant for a Bifana (pork sandwich), which, I'll be honest didn't impress me much. The Museum was excellent, plenty of history, some amazing tile-work, and a nice cafe too, where I had my first Pastel De Nata of the trip.
From there, I walked towards the city centre, luckily timing arrival at the Miradouro Santa Luiza for sunset. Great atmosphere here. Wandered around that area a bit, then took the Metro back towards my apartment, getting a really good pizza at a place called Jezzus Pizzaria.
Day 2: Breakfast at Cafe Nicola (excellent pancakes!), then went to the MUP Police Museum and MNAC art museum around the corner from that and then after a bit more wandering found myself at Manteigaria for another Pastel (I'll just say here that after a week of comparative tasting, I think these guys are my favourite!) Sunset at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, which was madly busy (I had thought this time of year would be pretty much off-season, but clearly not...and the excellent weather was a a bonus). Dinner at a cool spot called Jesus E Goes, lovely staff and amazing food. Next a concert by an Angolan Pop singer called Dom Kikas at the Coliseu dos Recreios, a very fine venue. Then made my weary way home.
Day 3: Bus to Belem, walked along the riverside a bit, breakfast at a small cafe then to the QUAKE experience, which was excellent, covering the 1755 quake/tsunami that destroyed a lot of Lisbon. This was really well done, I'd absolutely recommend it. Next visited the Botanic gardens of Belem, a nice quiet spot where I sat for an hour or so reading my Kindle. Sadly still no restaurant here though.
I then walked back towards Lisbon, stopping at the LX Factory for an early dinner at a Mexican restaurant (Mex Factory, I think it was called) which had a fantastic live band playing outside, great atmosphere and really good food. I actually spent over 2 hours there, chatted a bit with the band, then finished the visit to this area with an ice-cream. Bus back to Cais Do Sodre, then Metro back to my apartment.
Day 4: Happy Birthday to me! Had a lazy morning, reading for a couple of hours at the Miradour Monte Agudo just near my apartment. Then off to Oriente Metro station, lunch and a bit of shopping at the Vasco Da Gama shopping centre. Back to apartment with the shopping (some clothes and food) then back to the same area and the MEO Arena to see Nick Cave in concert. What a great show! (disappointingly, he was supported by a Dublin band called The Murder Capital, which I have to say I found boring)
Day 5: Train to Sintra, where I was met my two locals (lads I work with in Dublin who were happily home for a vacation). We ignored Sintra's attractions altogether, as I'd visited here a couple of years back and took a drive to Cascais, stopping at Cabo De Roca, Europe's most westerly point. Hiked a bit there, then headed, via a nice beach bar at Guincho, into Cascais, and a fantastic Brazilian BBQ Buffet place called Fogo De Chou. It's a bit off the main drag of restaurants, but wow, well worth it. Wandered around Cascais a bit, then back to Sintra, coffee and pasteis and a chat then train back to Lisbon and bed.
Day 6: Metro to Cais Do Sodre, then a ferry across to Cacilhas. Visited a fascinating museum featuring a submarine and an old frigate, then grabbed a lovely acai bowl for lunch, before a bit of a hike via the grafitti-ed riverside walk toward the famous Christo Rei Statue. What a view from there!
Got the bus back to the ferry, then had a Portugeuse Stew sandwich at an open-air market in the Baixa Market near Rossio Metro. That was a very cool happy discovery.
Day 7: Walked to Sao Vincente de Fora Church, took in the amazing roof-top views from there, then had a nice lunch at Fora Pastry just across the road. Did a bit more wandering, wrote a few postcards and sent them off, bought a couple of books at Livrario Bertrand, Europe's oldest bookstore.
Back to apartment for a rest, then out to see a Tokyo punk band called The FadeAways in NAV, at Campo Pequeno. That was pretty wild. Great young band, serious energy levels. They were supported by a local ska band called The Pages, also really good.
Day 8: Early start. Breakfast at a local cafe, then metro to Airport and a smooth trip home.
Overall a great time was had. I got great use of my Navegante card, which covered all public transport, was happily surprised at how reasonable my coffees and pastries cost (indeed, all my meals were pretty cheap and cheerful, and apart from that first bifana, food quality overall was excellent. I'm a guy that likes simple food, don't really care for fancy restaurants.)
Lisbon is a fantastic place to visit, and I'll definitely be back.
Thought I'd post a wee report on the trip, in case anyone's thinking of heading there.
Day 1: Arrival from Dublin@1045. Bought a Navegante card (basically a pre-paid card covering ALL of Lisbon's transport system...Metro, trams, buses, ferries and local regional trains ) and loaded up with 30 Euro credit. A quick trip using 2 metro lines and a bit of an uphill walk got me to my AirBnB where my hostess got me settled in. Had a bit of a nap, then walked to the National Tile Museum, (about 20 minutes away, stopping at a local restaurant for a Bifana (pork sandwich), which, I'll be honest didn't impress me much. The Museum was excellent, plenty of history, some amazing tile-work, and a nice cafe too, where I had my first Pastel De Nata of the trip.
From there, I walked towards the city centre, luckily timing arrival at the Miradouro Santa Luiza for sunset. Great atmosphere here. Wandered around that area a bit, then took the Metro back towards my apartment, getting a really good pizza at a place called Jezzus Pizzaria.
Day 2: Breakfast at Cafe Nicola (excellent pancakes!), then went to the MUP Police Museum and MNAC art museum around the corner from that and then after a bit more wandering found myself at Manteigaria for another Pastel (I'll just say here that after a week of comparative tasting, I think these guys are my favourite!) Sunset at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, which was madly busy (I had thought this time of year would be pretty much off-season, but clearly not...and the excellent weather was a a bonus). Dinner at a cool spot called Jesus E Goes, lovely staff and amazing food. Next a concert by an Angolan Pop singer called Dom Kikas at the Coliseu dos Recreios, a very fine venue. Then made my weary way home.
Day 3: Bus to Belem, walked along the riverside a bit, breakfast at a small cafe then to the QUAKE experience, which was excellent, covering the 1755 quake/tsunami that destroyed a lot of Lisbon. This was really well done, I'd absolutely recommend it. Next visited the Botanic gardens of Belem, a nice quiet spot where I sat for an hour or so reading my Kindle. Sadly still no restaurant here though.
I then walked back towards Lisbon, stopping at the LX Factory for an early dinner at a Mexican restaurant (Mex Factory, I think it was called) which had a fantastic live band playing outside, great atmosphere and really good food. I actually spent over 2 hours there, chatted a bit with the band, then finished the visit to this area with an ice-cream. Bus back to Cais Do Sodre, then Metro back to my apartment.
Day 4: Happy Birthday to me! Had a lazy morning, reading for a couple of hours at the Miradour Monte Agudo just near my apartment. Then off to Oriente Metro station, lunch and a bit of shopping at the Vasco Da Gama shopping centre. Back to apartment with the shopping (some clothes and food) then back to the same area and the MEO Arena to see Nick Cave in concert. What a great show! (disappointingly, he was supported by a Dublin band called The Murder Capital, which I have to say I found boring)
Day 5: Train to Sintra, where I was met my two locals (lads I work with in Dublin who were happily home for a vacation). We ignored Sintra's attractions altogether, as I'd visited here a couple of years back and took a drive to Cascais, stopping at Cabo De Roca, Europe's most westerly point. Hiked a bit there, then headed, via a nice beach bar at Guincho, into Cascais, and a fantastic Brazilian BBQ Buffet place called Fogo De Chou. It's a bit off the main drag of restaurants, but wow, well worth it. Wandered around Cascais a bit, then back to Sintra, coffee and pasteis and a chat then train back to Lisbon and bed.
Day 6: Metro to Cais Do Sodre, then a ferry across to Cacilhas. Visited a fascinating museum featuring a submarine and an old frigate, then grabbed a lovely acai bowl for lunch, before a bit of a hike via the grafitti-ed riverside walk toward the famous Christo Rei Statue. What a view from there!
Got the bus back to the ferry, then had a Portugeuse Stew sandwich at an open-air market in the Baixa Market near Rossio Metro. That was a very cool happy discovery.
Day 7: Walked to Sao Vincente de Fora Church, took in the amazing roof-top views from there, then had a nice lunch at Fora Pastry just across the road. Did a bit more wandering, wrote a few postcards and sent them off, bought a couple of books at Livrario Bertrand, Europe's oldest bookstore.
Back to apartment for a rest, then out to see a Tokyo punk band called The FadeAways in NAV, at Campo Pequeno. That was pretty wild. Great young band, serious energy levels. They were supported by a local ska band called The Pages, also really good.
Day 8: Early start. Breakfast at a local cafe, then metro to Airport and a smooth trip home.
Overall a great time was had. I got great use of my Navegante card, which covered all public transport, was happily surprised at how reasonable my coffees and pastries cost (indeed, all my meals were pretty cheap and cheerful, and apart from that first bifana, food quality overall was excellent. I'm a guy that likes simple food, don't really care for fancy restaurants.)
Lisbon is a fantastic place to visit, and I'll definitely be back.
. 
