I understand your point perfectly. As a bunch of ageing rockers we never grew up beyond the seventies and eighties and just like the old fashioned approach.
1972 rules, but with lighter gear!!
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I understand your point perfectly. As a bunch of ageing rockers we never grew up beyond the seventies and eighties and just like the old fashioned approach.
I'm wondering if we grab a crossover, would we be able to use my BB2 as a "sub" and actually have it sound good? I've got a Crest ProLite 3.0 that I can use to power it but I don't want to bother if it's going to sound like crap or not work very well. I know it isn't ideal, but neither is buying a new sub that's ginormous and won't fit in any of our cars or venues we typically play for that matter.
I believe they made a sub to work with the BB2/FRFR as mains. I'd take that as a hint that a solo BB2 might not be a great sub. I can't say for sure, but I'd be hesitant to try it, and certainly have limited expectations. But I'm just guessing.
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Oh, you.I figured they'd make killer tops but wasn't sure about the sub side of things...

[colorful string of complimentary and envious vulgarity]I believe they made a sub to work with the BB2/FRFR as mains. I'd take that as a hint that a solo BB2 might not be a great sub. I can't say for sure, but I'd be hesitant to try it, and certainly have limited expectations. But I'm just guessing.
View attachment 4404903
I figured they'd make killer tops but wasn't sure about the sub side of things...
Huh? Why does the cab ship with the rubber feet unattached? Never seen that before.So my super twin arrived from FedEx a little while ago, and there are instructions on the bottom to remove the screws and attach the rubber feet.
I went to remove one of the screws and I heard something shift or fall inside, then the screw suddenly became very hard to turn and won't come out. It also won't go back into the cabinet.
View attachment 4406891
View attachment 4406892
The second image shows what I mean.
It's just stuck there. I can push it back in, but it will fall right back out to where it is now.
If I try to turn it, it feels like something is coiling around it and preventing it from moving. If I let go, it uncoils and spins. Also as I'm turning it, I can hear something moving along the entire length of the cabinet and that seems weird.
Does anyone here know how it might be attached on the other side and what's causing all the sounds? I assume it's probably a washer or a spring attached to something else. And is there a way to open up the cabinet and fix this without hurting something?
I sent an email to Barefaced about it, but my experience so far is that it takes a week or two to get a response and I'd like to get this fixed before the weekend. I can put something in front of the cab to lift it up a couple of inches so that it's level, but I'd really rather it just be fixed.
Huh? Why does the cab ship with the rubber feet unattached? Never seen that before.
(I have my suspicions but I'll keep them to myself).
If it were me, I'd pop the rear jack plate off and try to see what's going on inside.
I had to remove a metal grill from my Two10 to fix one of the crap spade connectors on one of the drivers and it came off with a bunch of gentle(ish) but persistent persuasion.I've tried to, but even with all the screws out that plate does not want to budge. I suppose if I got a flathead or a knife I could pry it off, but since this is a $1400 cab and not a Peavey, I really don't want to risk breaking something.
Plus the plate is at the very top rear of the cab and I need to see the very bottom of the front. So I doubt I'd be able to see what I need even with it off.
Maybe if I took the grill off I'd be able to see, but I've read that the barefaced grills shouldn't be removed.
It sounds to me as though the dampening material inside is caught up on the screw.
Its also possible that there's a small wooden block that acts as the rubber foot screw reinforcement that's glued to the inside of the bottom panel and maybe the wood block has become "detached" from the inside of the bottom panel but the glue is still adhering to both the block and the panel. Hence the "reverse twist".It sounds to me as though the dampening material inside is caught up on the screw.
I second this@phillipkregg I wouldn't do anything until I'd emailed Barefaced.
You don't know why you have this situation so don't start taking the cab to pieces until you do know.
I ordered a Super Compact to use with my Walkabout a couple of weeks ago - agonized for a few weeks beforehand whether to get the Super Twin instead since I'd get about 5dB more headroom out of it. I measured peak power I typically put into my GS212 at louder gigs and determined that the SC should have sufficient headroom ("loud" for me is medium sized clubs where waitstaff can still take drink orders without reading lips or getting spittle in their ear). I'm hoping to find out if I got this right sometime in October.Anyone here using barefaced cabs with a walkabout head? If so, what's your preferred cab configuration?