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Official Barefaced Bass Cab Club

I'm wondering if we grab a crossover, would we be able to use my BB2 as a "sub" and actually have it sound good? I've got a Crest ProLite 3.0 that I can use to power it but I don't want to bother if it's going to sound like crap or not work very well. I know it isn't ideal, but neither is buying a new sub that's ginormous and won't fit in any of our cars or venues we typically play for that matter.

I believe they made a sub to work with the BB2/FRFR as mains. I'd take that as a hint that a solo BB2 might not be a great sub. I can't say for sure, but I'd be hesitant to try it, and certainly have limited expectations. But I'm just guessing.

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I believe they made a sub to work with the BB2/FRFR as mains. I'd take that as a hint that a solo BB2 might not be a great sub. I can't say for sure, but I'd be hesitant to try it, and certainly have limited expectations. But I'm just guessing.

View attachment 4404903
[colorful string of complimentary and envious vulgarity]
 
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I figured they'd make killer tops but wasn't sure about the sub side of things...

I've primarily used my BB2 pair as a PA system for electronic noise with lots of low end content and they've delivered. But I feel like feeding them just "sub" frequencies and expecting them to perform like subs might be underwhelming. That said, I have a power amp with a built in crossover, and it had crossed my mind more than once to try it. I've quasi retired from gigging and jamming, so I probably won't be able to experiment in the foreseeable future.
 
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So my super twin arrived from FedEx a little while ago, and there are instructions on the bottom to remove the screws and attach the rubber feet.

I went to remove one of the screws and I heard something shift or fall inside, then the screw suddenly became very hard to turn and won't come out. It also won't go back into the cabinet.

w1ku4Ee.jpg


UPxEebY.jpg


The second image shows what I mean.

It's just stuck there. I can push it back in, but it will fall right back out to where it is now.

If I try to turn it, it feels like something is coiling around it and preventing it from moving. If I let go, it uncoils and spins. Also as I'm turning it, I can hear something moving along the entire length of the cabinet and that seems weird.

Does anyone here know how it might be attached on the other side and what's causing all the sounds? I assume it's probably a washer or a spring attached to something else. And is there a way to open up the cabinet and fix this without hurting something?

I sent an email to Barefaced about it, but my experience so far is that it takes a week or two to get a response and I'd like to get this fixed before the weekend. I can put something in front of the cab to lift it up a couple of inches so that it's level, but I'd really rather it just be fixed.
 
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So my super twin arrived from FedEx a little while ago, and there are instructions on the bottom to remove the screws and attach the rubber feet.

I went to remove one of the screws and I heard something shift or fall inside, then the screw suddenly became very hard to turn and won't come out. It also won't go back into the cabinet.

View attachment 4406891

View attachment 4406892

The second image shows what I mean.

It's just stuck there. I can push it back in, but it will fall right back out to where it is now.

If I try to turn it, it feels like something is coiling around it and preventing it from moving. If I let go, it uncoils and spins. Also as I'm turning it, I can hear something moving along the entire length of the cabinet and that seems weird.

Does anyone here know how it might be attached on the other side and what's causing all the sounds? I assume it's probably a washer or a spring attached to something else. And is there a way to open up the cabinet and fix this without hurting something?

I sent an email to Barefaced about it, but my experience so far is that it takes a week or two to get a response and I'd like to get this fixed before the weekend. I can put something in front of the cab to lift it up a couple of inches so that it's level, but I'd really rather it just be fixed.
Huh? Why does the cab ship with the rubber feet unattached? Never seen that before.
(I have my suspicions but I'll keep them to myself).

If it were me, I'd pop the rear jack plate off and try to see what's going on inside.
 
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Huh? Why does the cab ship with the rubber feet unattached? Never seen that before.
(I have my suspicions but I'll keep them to myself).

If it were me, I'd pop the rear jack plate off and try to see what's going on inside.

I've tried to, but even with all the screws out that plate does not want to budge. I suppose if I got a flathead or a knife I could pry it off, but since this is a $1400 cab and not a Peavey, I really don't want to risk breaking something.

Plus the plate is at the very top rear of the cab and I need to see the very bottom of the front. So I doubt I'd be able to see what I need even with it off.

Maybe if I took the grill off I'd be able to see, but I've read that the barefaced grills shouldn't be removed.
 
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I've tried to, but even with all the screws out that plate does not want to budge. I suppose if I got a flathead or a knife I could pry it off, but since this is a $1400 cab and not a Peavey, I really don't want to risk breaking something.

Plus the plate is at the very top rear of the cab and I need to see the very bottom of the front. So I doubt I'd be able to see what I need even with it off.

Maybe if I took the grill off I'd be able to see, but I've read that the barefaced grills shouldn't be removed.
I had to remove a metal grill from my Two10 to fix one of the crap spade connectors on one of the drivers and it came off with a bunch of gentle(ish) but persistent persuasion.
I haven't had to do that on a cloth grill cab and I understand that they're even tougher to get off but it should be possible. If it isn't, I wouldn't bother buying one.
I'm sure that the rear panel is just a bit "stuck" and should come off with some more "gentle persuasion". If it doesn't come off without damaging the cab…. Well that's just poop and I'd be sending it back.
 
It sounds to me as though the dampening material inside is caught up on the screw.
Its also possible that there's a small wooden block that acts as the rubber foot screw reinforcement that's glued to the inside of the bottom panel and maybe the wood block has become "detached" from the inside of the bottom panel but the glue is still adhering to both the block and the panel. Hence the "reverse twist".
 
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Anyone here using barefaced cabs with a walkabout head? If so, what's your preferred cab configuration?
I ordered a Super Compact to use with my Walkabout a couple of weeks ago - agonized for a few weeks beforehand whether to get the Super Twin instead since I'd get about 5dB more headroom out of it. I measured peak power I typically put into my GS212 at louder gigs and determined that the SC should have sufficient headroom ("loud" for me is medium sized clubs where waitstaff can still take drink orders without reading lips or getting spittle in their ear). I'm hoping to find out if I got this right sometime in October.

By the way, I string most of my basses with flats although I often run the tone wide open with the amp treble between 11 and 1 o'clock, so response out past 4kHz is not a concern for me.
 
I had a rattle in my One10 that turned out to be a little mettle bracket that the screws securing the driver connect to on the backside, which had fallen off and (being very light) was stuck to the driver magnet. I had to remove the cloth grill, then the driver, to locate the buzz (thinking it might be a bad driver which BF said it likely was - in fact they were so sure that they sent me a new driver which I did in fact install since 1) they were convinced and 2) it was there, delivered in 24 hrs from Brighton UK to the Chicago area). But I am 90% certain (like the google search doctor who is always near certain :) ) that it was that bracket oscillating on the magnet when I played through it. I mean, it COULD have been a bad driver like Alex said (it was a week-old cabinet so maybe a unit faulty at manufacture by his supplier), but if so there was coincidentally also this loose bracket stuck on the magnet.In either case I'll never know for sure which since I took care of both things at once.

I must say Alex gave very good instructions for getting the grill off without harm, and while I nervously expected a difficult job, it was far less difficult than I thought. It went smoothly - though I was uber careful and followed the directions religiously. Bad driver or loose bracket, I never had that problem after that.

So- possible that your problem - and the sound of something falling inside - was one of those little clamp/brackets falling and becoming a free flyer from the driver; or, in your case, more likely a clamp that receives that screw inside, which might also be a small/light piece originally held by glue but meant to ultimately adhere by force of the tightened screw pulling it into/onto the wood of the cabinet.

Just my 2 cents, I am probably wrong, insert additional disclaimer here.
 
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