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Double Bass Oiling your Fingerboard (Olive Oil)

Understood, but you were responding to a post that cited information about what electric bass manufacturers recommend, and you seemed to be stressing the ebony composition of the fingerboard as being the primary factor. No?
Actually, no. The OP asked about an ebony fingerboard on a double bass. Then, the situation was confused by citing what EB manufacturers recommend. That information is, IMO, irrelevant to the advice being sought. One post about EBs even asserted that the same principles apply to DBs. As for EBs and DBs having ebony fingerboards, I can certainly understand why what is recommended in one case would be ill-advised in the other. So, I return to what I said. An ebony fingerboard on a double bass is best treating by using what respected luthiers use. I'm not aware of any that use or recommend lemon oil. That's not to say that lemon oil is, necessarily, harmful in any way.

Fingerboards should be finished with a drying oil(linseed, walnut, watco danish) after a dressing. I don't understand the need or desire for anything more.
Exactly!
 
I'll take the word of a reputable and trusted luthier any day over that of the instrument manufacturer.

So, companies with warranty costs at stake may not know what they're talking about when they make recommendations about instrument care, but an individual guy who works on instruments will no doubt have the correct science based truth superior to that of the manufacturer.

That's just funny right there, I don't care who you are....
 
So, companies with warranty costs at stake may not know what they're talking about when they make recommendations about instrument care, but an individual guy who works on instruments will no doubt have the correct science based truth superior to that of the manufacturer.

That's just funny right there, I don't care who you are....
It seems you don't know much about double basses. Double bass "manufacturers" do not typically provide advice with regard to care of their fingerboards. That's largely because the proper care of ebony fingerboards is hardly controversial (except in threads like this) and luthiers have known for years how to care for them. As I said, it's no mystery. Those "individual guys" who work on double basses, when they are reputable luthiers as I specified tend to be consummate experts for whom I have substantial respect. Again, as I said, there is no reason to believe that any one double bass "manufacturer's" ebony fingerboard requires some unique treatment. Tried and true practice has been established. Double basses tend to be turned out by "makers" rather than entities we'd call "manufacturers." Not so much with EBs, which seem to be about what you know. Now, just for the sake of argument, if some builder or maker of double basses recommended something quite different for the care of his/her ebony fingerboard with no reason to believe that his/her fingerboards were somehow unique, then, yes, I would follow a trusted luthier's advice rather than that of the maker. There would be no reason to believe that that maker's knowledge about ebony fingerboards, in general, would be superior to the collective knowledge that's shared by expert luthiers. In the absence of information to the contrary, there would be no reason to think that that maker's ebony fingerboards would be unique. The way a double bass fingerboard is oiled is not what would trigger a warranty issue unless someone puts some awful substance on it. This, however, is all hypothetical. I am not aware of a single double bass maker that specifies the use of oil on his/her/their ebony fingerboards such that the recommendation conflicts with what reputable luthiers have been using for decades (centuries). Do you know of one? If not, then you're just whistling "Dixie." :) Trusting expert luthiers has served me very well since the early 70's. I never felt the need to call the maker of a bass I owned to check what his/their recommendation was. It's actually easy for me to do that these days because my luthier made my bass. Guess what. He oils my ebony fingerboard in the same manner that any other reputable and knowledgable luthier would do it. So with regard to the double bass, how long have you been at it? Do you own and/or play a double bass?
 
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So, companies with warranty costs at stake may not know what they're talking about when they make recommendations about instrument care, but an individual guy who works on instruments will no doubt have the correct science based truth superior to that of the manufacturer.

That's just funny right there, I don't care who you are....
That's not funny, and I do care who you are. Are you an expert in instrument repair and restoration? No? Then why are you arguing with legitimately credentialed experts?

My bass was made long before I was born, and whatever "warranty" it may have had expired with the maker. Hell, the fingerboard isn't even original. Unless my bass has a non-ebony board, or was glued to the neck with something other than hide glue, I will trust the collective knowledge of expert luthiers in the care of my instrument. They seem to be in agreement over how best to care for a standard ebony board.
 
Hemp oil? No. Linseed oil is the usual medium for artists oils.

http://www.winsornewton.com/products.aspx?PageID=296
Linseed oil has only been in vogue since hemp has came under criminal scrutiny in last 80-90 years. Linseed oil is cheap, it is a good second choice. But hemp oil HAS been used for centuries in fine oil paints.

From the 'Net...
Hemp oil is a "drying oil", as it can polymerize into a solid form. Due to its polymer-forming properties, hemp oil is used on its own or blended with other oils, resins, and solvents as an impregnator and varnish in wood finishing, as a pigment binder in oil paints, as a plasticizer and hardener in putty. It has uses similar to linseed oil and characteristics similar to tung oil.

Rembrandt and Van Gogh both painted on hemp canvas, using oil paints made from hemp oil.

Seems to me hemp oil would be an excellent choice all around.
 
Not while Eric Holder is around! I wonder if drug prisoners could be taught luthiery skills. Since they are already being used for slave labor, maybe having them make basses for a buck a day could help offset the trade imbalance with China? Having all those sharp tools around probably wouldn't go over well with authorities at the for profit prisons though...
 
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Linseed oil has only been in vogue since hemp has came under criminal scrutiny in last 80-90 years. Linseed oil is cheap, it is a good second choice. But hemp oil HAS been used for centuries in fine oil paints.

From the 'Net...
Hemp oil is a "drying oil", as it can polymerize into a solid form. Due to its polymer-forming properties, hemp oil is used on its own or blended with other oils, resins, and solvents as an impregnator and varnish in wood finishing, as a pigment binder in oil paints, as a plasticizer and hardener in putty. It has uses similar to linseed oil and characteristics similar to tung oil.

Rembrandt and Van Gogh both painted on hemp canvas, using oil paints made from hemp oil.

Seems to me hemp oil would be an excellent choice all around.
Can you provide links to any citations? Thanks.
 
I hope to add to this without hijacking too much...
Olive oil does go rancid. My personal preference is to avoid anything that may contaminate (silicones), create a stench or leave a detectable residue on the playing surface.

I use Fret Doctor on my pau ferro electric bass fingerboard, but did not get around to trying it on my upright. Does anyone have any experience with this on ebony? Fret Doctor is formulated to soak in and slow down the effects of relative humidity swings, which sounds like a good thing for an upright fb, but I'm wondering if there is any reason to avoid it. If the goal is also to harden the surface slightly, such as how a drying oil would, then Fret Doctor may not be a great choice. Either way, it makes pau ferro look really nice!
 
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After you didn't provide any citations, only a link to a disgusting sales site. I can't believe you question my assertion. Google it, don't trust a bunch of bass players!:rage:
Winsor is a "disgusting sales site"? No, its where real artists get supplies.

I did Google it and found nothing of substance. Is there any substantiating data?

My father painted in oils and I grew up to the smell of turps and linseed oil in every house we lived in. I never heard the word 'hemp' pass his lips, so...
 
Holy crap, it's amazing how this thread about essentially nothing has descended into a battle of egos and miasma of hurt feelings. It matters not one bit what you put on your ebony fingerboard! Put olive oil, tung oil, linseed oil, 3-in-one oil, or Gorgonzola cheese spread if that's what you like. Ebony is incredibly dense and nothing is going to penetrate very deeply. If you use something that goes rancid, a few wipes with mineral spirits or another solvent will fix things in a jiffy. Ebony does not need anything to stay in good shape, but a little oil does make it a bit more slippery, and it looks pretty. For what it's worth, in my shop we use Watco if we can let it dry overnight, Walnut oil if not. We apply it, wait about 30 seconds, and wipe it off and polish it. Geez, it must be a slow bass news week!
 
Holy crap, it's amazing how this thread about essentially nothing has descended into a battle of egos and miasma of hurt feelings. It matters not one bit what you put on your ebony fingerboard! Put olive oil, tung oil, linseed oil, 3-in-one oil, or Gorgonzola cheese spread if that's what you like. Ebony is incredibly dense and nothing is going to penetrate very deeply. If you use something that goes rancid, a few wipes with mineral spirits or another solvent will fix things in a jiffy. Ebony does not need anything to stay in good shape, but a little oil does make it a bit more slippery, and it looks pretty. For what it's worth, in my shop we use Watco if we can let it dry overnight, Walnut oil if not. We apply it, wait about 30 seconds, and wipe it off and polish it. Geez, it must be a slow bass news week!

Bah! I was wading through all the turgid oily posts only to get to the end, so i could call a massive bullsh*t ... and Arnold beat me to it :-)
 
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I have zero comprehension why owners seek advice from luthiers or (far more commonly) anonymous opinionated people on the web, when the bass manufacturers give specific instructions for the care of their instruments.

It seems you don't know much about double basses. Double bass "manufacturers" do not typically provide advice with regard to care of their fingerboards. That's largely because the proper care of ebony fingerboards is hardly controversial (except in threads like this) and luthiers have known for years how to care for them. As I said, it's no mystery. Those "individual guys" who work on double basses, when they are reputable luthiers as I specified tend to be consummate experts for whom I have substantial respect. Again, as I said, there is no reason to believe that any one double bass "manufacturer's" ebony fingerboard requires some unique treatment. Tried and true practice has been established. Double basses tend to be turned out by "makers" rather than entities we'd call "manufacturers."

Agreed with all of the above from Drurb. Reputable luthiers are NOT the guy in the back at Guitar Center, or some guy manning a router machine at the Fender factory.

Holy crap, it's amazing how this thread about essentially nothing has descended into a battle of egos and miasma of hurt feelings. It matters not one bit what you put on your ebony fingerboard! Put olive oil, tung oil, linseed oil, 3-in-one oil, or Gorgonzola cheese spread if that's what you like. Ebony is incredibly dense and nothing is going to penetrate very deeply. If you use something that goes rancid, a few wipes with mineral spirits or another solvent will fix things in a jiffy. Ebony does not need anything to stay in good shape, but a little oil does make it a bit more slippery, and it looks pretty. For what it's worth, in my shop we use Watco if we can let it dry overnight, Walnut oil if not. We apply it, wait about 30 seconds, and wipe it off and polish it. Geez, it must be a slow bass news week!

Looks like a reputable luthier has chimed in! Thanks Arnold!

As for me, I'll keep my mouth shut when I see the C.G. Testore bass owner again. I'm pretty sure he's set in his ways with olive oil, and if it works for him it works for him.

I've never oiled a fingerboard myself, but my luthier did apply a drying oil after dressing my fingerboard a few months ago. Haven't needed to apply anything since (or before, for that matter), and it seems I will never need to - I'll take Arnold's advice on that one. I've never oiled the ebony board on my Shen either and it's been fine since 2001 (the year it was made).

Thanks for your input, everybody. Sorry my seemingly innocuous question turned into contention!
 
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Agreed with all of the above from Drurb. Reputable luthiers are NOT the guy in the back at Guitar Center, or some guy manning a router machine at the Fender factory.



Looks like a reputable luthier has chimed in! Thanks Arnold!

As for me, I'll keep my mouth shut when I see the C.G. Testore bass owner again. I'm pretty sure he's set in his ways with olive oil, and if it works for him it works for him.

I've never oiled a fingerboard myself, but my luthier did apply a drying oil after dressing my fingerboard a few months ago. Haven't needed to apply anything since (or before, for that matter), and it seems I will never need to - I'll take Arnold's advice on that one. I've never oiled the ebony board on my Shen either and it's been fine since 2001 (the year it was made).

Thanks for your input, everybody. Sorry my seemingly innocuous question turned into contention!
Oh no, no apologies bassmanchu. While Arnold, the reputable luthier tells us that neither olive oil nor Gorgonzola cheese spread are damaging, neither are what he'd use. What he does use, when he does use something, is in the same class of oils that other reputable luthiers generally use.
 

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