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Old cabs - new drivers

can any 1 plz help me i own own 2a pair of eminence pro 500 XL serise 2 speakers and cabinets , unfortunetly the main 15inch speker stopt working without any warning i have lernt that the problem is a blown capaciter inside and im finding it near imposable to find replacments cud any 1 help me. they are Philips blue capaciters joined together each 1 has numers on . ! 031k0 / 68u - 63v/ -10/+50%
thanx ppl :help:
 
can any 1 plz help me i own own 2a pair of eminence pro 500 XL serise 2 speakers and cabinets , unfortunetly the main 15inch speker stopt working without any warning i have lernt that the problem is a blown capaciter inside and im finding it near imposable to find replacments cud any 1 help me. they are Philips blue capaciters joined together each 1 has numers on . ! 031k0 / 68u - 63v/ -10/+50%
thanx ppl :help:
 
How about leaving the fried ten in there as a passive radiator?

That's probably of little value, and I suspect it would screw up calculations. Its motion allows the active woofer to produce greater displacement, because it acts like a "springy port."

A passive radiator doesn't have a heavy magnet. Probably wouldn't be worth its extra weight.
 
Hey, I'd just like to say a big THANKS to you guys.
I have this same BXR Spectrum cabinet and one of the inductors on the circuit board / crossover circuit has fried! I've been trying to find schematic info for so long now and today I got lucky on google with this old thread!

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!

I'm actually powering the cab from a Fender BXR Dual 400 head, with the crossover and 2 line outs, so I can run the cab ok from this one head (using the low and high jacks on the back of the cab), but if I ever wanted to try another power amp, I would be wasting half the cab each time (running just the 10's or the 18 on their own. :(

Here's my problem:

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I have no idea if it's for the low or high pass filter. I just needed to know what part to replace, and Submonkey, you little rippa :) You listed the part I'm looking for in your post!

I'll try and digest all this info you've all posted and maybe think if there's a more appropriate value part to replace to get a better frequency cut off. The circuit board appears to be in still allright shape so I think I can rewire this ok.

A classic example of how not to build a crossover, inductors of too small a gauge and all electrolytic caps. In a word, cheap. In two words, cheap junk.:rollno:

I'd follow the advice up in the thread on calculating component values and start from scratch.
 
I also have a Fender BXR Spectrum. Can somebody help me with the specifications of the 10 inch speakers? They need being replaced.

There's a label on one of them which states:
026739 10332 8Ohm
67-8912 G3


On the other speaker:
026739 10332 6Ohm
67-8750 G3
 
I also wonder if it's possible to check the impedance of the cabinet via the full range input. I get a nice result when measuring the low and high input, but strange (negative values, changings values) results when measuring the full range input, probably due to the cross-over circuit (capacitors etc.).
 
I've got one of these cabs, too; I think the crossover on mine is croaked, too. I'll have to drag it home from church next week and take a look inside. What makes this crossover different is the switches on the board that isolate the speakers when you plug into that jack.

If I decide to eliminate the bi-amp capability, just going with a regular crossover - even a prepackaged one - should be pretty straightforward....
 
Courtesy of Jeff K* at Fender, here is the schematic of the crossover in that cab.

*Who is clearly one heck of a fine human being!
 

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