Old... I mean, "vintage" Jointer "restoration"

[Phil Mastro]

Yes, many air quotes here.

Basically, I inherited a 1954 Duro 5" jointer, and though it was it decent shape, it needs some work to get it to do fairly precise work (let's not talk about the lathe that was also purchased in 1954).

Essentially this machine: Invalid Link Removed

Basically, I need to flatten the tables a bit, get the infeed and outfeet tables coplanar, clean/replace the bearings, find a new spring for the guard, clean the head and fix/replace the blade jibs (gibs?). The knives are actually quite sharp, so at least there's that.

Anywho, the big issue I currently have is that the blade jibs are in really rough shape, so I was planning on buying some flat stock and making new ones and getting new screws. However, the existing ones have a groove on one edge which I wouldn't be able to replicate (Invalid Link Removed(no, not my picture, and yes, the blades are inserted in backwards in the picture)). I'm assuming this helps with chip ejection? Is it really necessary? Would flat stock not work?

Thanks in advance.

 

[T_Bone_TL]

That's an odd part to be in "rough shape" - pictures of the actual ones you have might provide some food for cogitation.

 

[Phil Mastro]

That's an odd part to be in "rough shape" - pictures of the actual ones you have might provide some food for cogitation.

Basically the threads on both the jibs and the screws are in terrible shape. Some are damaged, some are completely stripped, and some, I assume, are acceptable. The jibs themselves are rusty and not very flat, but that's pretty easy to fix.

 

[inchoate]

if your budget allows track down a helical cutterhead. they make life so easy.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

If you are lucky, @Bruce Johnson, our resident old machinery expert and all around brilliant Engineer can advise you, but I’m guessing he’ll want to see photos, the more the better!

 

[arbiterusa]

It's "gib", for future reference.

You have one hell of a job on your hands. Good luck.

 

[TerribleTim68]

if your budget allows track down a helical cutterhead. they make life so easy.

That sounds easy on paper. I have the 6" version of this same model line and finding helical cutters for a 1950s jointer isn't as simple as just whipping out a catalog. The first thing I found on mine was that it's not actually a 6" jointer, it's more like 6-1/4" or something.

I got crazy lucky on mine and picked it up for $60 used and the beds are dead flat, everything works. Good luck OP, I probably would have passed on it if the beds were off, that's a big deal there.

 

[Phil Mastro]

if your budget allows track down a helical cutterhead. they make life so easy.

I've checked, and my budget definitely doesn't allow, and anyway I haven't actually seen a 5" one. If they were cheap and available, this thread would probably not exist.

 

[Phil Mastro]

It's "gib", for future reference.

Damn you, Interwebz

Is it gib as in giblets or Andy Gibb? I would presume the former, but I've been fooled before

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Yes, many air quotes here.

Basically, I inherited a 1954 Duro 5" jointer, and though it was it decent shape, it needs some work to get it to do fairly precise work (let's not talk about the lathe that was also purchased in 1954).

Essentially this machine: Invalid Link Removed

Basically, I need to flatten the tables a bit, get the infeed and outfeet tables coplanar, clean/replace the bearings, find a new spring for the guard, clean the head and fix/replace the blade jibs (gibs?). The knives are actually quite sharp, so at least there's that.

Anywho, the big issue I currently have is that the blade jibs are in really rough shape, so I was planning on buying some flat stock and making new ones and getting new screws. However, the existing ones have a groove on one edge which I wouldn't be able to replicate (Invalid Link Removed(no, not my picture, and yes, the blades are inserted in backwards in the picture)). I'm assuming this helps with chip ejection? Is it really necessary? Would flat stock not work?

Thanks in advance.

Hello Phil;

Yep, my other hobby, in addition to building basses, is restoring antique machinery. I've got 5 or 6 planers and jointers around here which use that style cutterhead.

Yes, that part is usually called a Gib, and its job is to clamp the blade in place in the cutterhead. It's a long bar of mild steel with a couple of short hex head machine screws threaded into it. Those screws and the threads in the gib can get messed up by corrosion or overtightening or abuse.

That curved groove along the outer edge of the gib isn't absolutely necessary, but it's there for a reason. It helps the wood chips being shaved by the blade to be curled around and ejected by the cutterhead. Without the groove, the blade will still cut, but it may tend to clog up in heavy cutting.

Also, be aware that many gibs are designed as a narrow wedge. The two faces aren't parallel. This is an extra safety feature. You can see that in the gibs of the cutterhead in the picture you showed. Your Duro's gibs may be a simpler parallel design.

The best way to make up a new set of gibs is to machine them to the same dimensions and geometry using a milling machine. But I'm guessing you don't have one, or you wouldn't be asking!

Another option would be to rebuild the existing gibs, drilling and tapping new holes in different locations from the bad holes. Maybe use four new screws in place of the original three? The location of the screws isn't critical; they just push against the wall of the slot in the cutterhead. Do the same thing on all three of the gibs.

Whether you make new ones or rebuild the existing gibs, check to make sure they weigh the same amount when they are done. You don't want the cutter head to vibrate from being out of balance.

 

[Phil Mastro]

@Bruce Johnson, thanks for the advice.

I had considered drilling new holes on the existing gibs, but since it's just a 5 inch head, the new bolts would be pretty close together (seems inefficient) and the bolts closest to the ends of the blades would still be too far from the ends for my personal comfort. Thankfully, my gibs aren't wedged, so replacing them with steel flat stock sounds reasonable. I've never been one to take heavy cuts on a jointer (kinda scares the crap out of me), so the idea of cleaning it out every now and then - or even after every use - seems fine to me. On the other hand, maybe I can find screws that are a tiny bit bigger and oversize the holes and retap them. Maybe metric screws?

If I ever manage to get some extended time away from my kids at a point I'm not completely exhausted, I'll try and document the thing and post pictures. Just taking the thing apart is a decent task, the darn thing is heavy.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Maybe something along the lines of Helicoils to repair the threads?

Heli-Coil® Kits: Thread Repair Kits | STANLEY® Engineered Fastening

There’s a couple of different versions. I actually use a copy brand for inserts on some of the wood knobs I make but repairing threads in metal is what they were actually made for.

 

[Bloomfield]

What size are the existing threads? You might be able to drill them out and tap them to a larger size, it would save making a new set from scratch.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Maybe something along the lines of Helicoils to repair the threads?

Heli-Coil® Kits: Thread Repair Kits | STANLEY® Engineered Fastening

There’s a couple of different versions. I actually use a copy brand for inserts on some of the wood knobs I make but repairing threads in metal is what they were actually made for.

That's another way to approach it: Fix the threads on the existing gibs. Any screws that are frozen or broken, grind them down flush, drill and re-tap. If the threads are stripped, fix them with Heli-Coils. That's probably less work than making up new ones.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Did we ever decide if it’s giblet gib or Andy Gibb gib? In need to sleep tonight!!!

 

[Phil Mastro]

This is my first time hearing about thread repair inserts, and they seem like the very obvious solution. A couple stores seem to have them in stock in my area, as well. Thanks.

 

[Phil Mastro]

What size are the existing threads? You might be able to drill them out and tap them to a larger size, it would save making a new set from scratch.

I'm not sure I can go for larger bolts. Although I have no actual measurements to back up this statement, larger bolt heads may not fit properly in the slot without having issues turning them or poking out of the slot. It's worth considering, for sure.

 

[tr4252]

Without being able to see the problem, it's tough to guess on a fix, but it sounds like heli-coils would work for the screws. A little practice at hand tapping would be a good idea if you don't already have the experience. If you're interested, I could suggest a few tricks to help with that.

I think you stated your gibs were in "rough shape"; are they still good enough to be repaired or need to be scrapped? Does your old machine have up to date safety equipment such as guards, anti kickback devices, magnetic starter, etc.? What RPM does your spindle run at?

It's a cute little machine

Good luck!

Tom

 

[Leigh Semmens]

Just remember the old axe story. It's had 6 new heads and ten new handles, but it's still a good old axe.........[gets back in box]

 

[Phil Mastro]

Just remember the old axe story. It's had 6 new heads and ten new handles, but it's still a good old axe.........[gets back in box]

The axe of Theseus

Without being able to see the problem, it's tough to guess on a fix, but it sounds like heli-coils would work for the screws. A little practice at hand tapping would be a good idea if you don't already have the experience. If you're interested, I could suggest a few tricks to help with that.

I think you stated your gibs were in "rough shape"; are they still good enough to be repaired or need to be scrapped? Does your old machine have up to date safety equipment such as guards, anti kickback devices, magnetic starter, etc.? What RPM does your spindle run at?

It's a cute little machine

Good luck!

Tom

The gibs are mostly damaged at the holes, with the threads being the most problematic part. I'm assuming they're mild steel, and I was able to clean up one side of one pretty quickly with a diamond stone, so no issues as far as the integrity of them goes. They are thin, at 1/4", so I am a bit worried about finding really shallow inserts.

The only safety measure it has is a guard. According to the manual (original from 1954, thanks grandpa) the spindle should turn at 4000 rpm, though I haven't done the math to check.