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Painting chrome knobs

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by Same, Oct 28, 2018.

  1. Same


    Aug 22, 2018
    10F2C5E4-7026-404B-AA9E-29A47ABA776A. I dont really care for the chrome knurled knobs that come on everything, so I just painted mine with some black rustoleum and I feel like it came out decent. But we’ll see how it holds up, I’m sure it won’t stick too good, but it'll work until I find something else. Anyone else painted their stuff??
  2. cmgkhn


    Oct 12, 2018
    Looks good to me. Got any other photos showing the whole bass?
  3. Slater

    Slater Leave that thing alone. Supporting Member

    Apr 17, 2000
    The Great Lakes State
    I guess I’m fortunate enough to live near a couple of music stores so that I could have went to the music store and purchased some new knobs in less time than it would take for the paint to dry. ;)
  4. Same


    Aug 22, 2018
    Here’s the whole thing, I’m stuck on if I should darken the headstock or just leave it be. 2C0DFC42-C7DD-4846-ABC7-4E07C295D84A.
    And it wasn’t bad to paint, also free. I just painted a dime to check If the paint had dried enough, and used a q-tip to clean paint out of the set screw. Went from looking like this to on the guitar playing a show in like 24 hours
  5. It’s likely not to last long unless you were able to sandblast the chrome first. Better to find some black knobs on reverb.
    Jeff Scott and Picton like this.
  6. JRA

    JRA my words = opinion Supporting Member

    sure. i've used the "rubberized" paint on knobs (red and black): works fine. you can always paint them again when you start feeling self-conscious about painting them in the first place. just don't tell anyone...they'll laugh at you. :D


  7. Malak the Mad

    Malak the Mad Over the River and through the Looking Glass Supporting Member

    I'm a big fan of Smoked Chrome (aka Black Nickel/Cosmo Black), but finding hardware with that finish can be a difficult process. Then I stumbled across this…

    Shadow Chrome Black-Out Coating - Aerosol Kit | Dupli-Color

    It's a binary process. Once the surface is clean and free of any oils or fingerprints, you spray a layer or two of the shadow coating, then a couple of layers of clear coat.

    I first tried it out on an inexpensive bridge and control plate. That was certainly a learning experience! :rolleyes:

    First, I learned not to wave the blackout can around too fast. It makes the coating go on too speckle-y and rough to the touch, so slow, even passes is the key.

    Secondly, don't skimp on the clear coating. I only did one layer on the bridge and all it took to peel bits off was the low-adhesive artists tape I used to prep it for installation. :facepalm:

    I did do one thing right the first time around, though. To keep the bridge saddle's screw-threads from getting all gummed-up, I plugged up the holes with toothpick tips. Once it was fully dried and cured, I just popped them out…easy-peasey.

    Additionally, to make sure I didn't glue the parts down to the work surface (a thick sheet of corrugated cardboard), I used a bunch of toothpicks to created a "platform" to suspend them above.

    Ultimately, while my initial results were so-so, I'm much better prepared should the need to use the kit arise again. It's kinda like being back in art school…these are the ups and downs of learning to use new materials. :bookworm:


  8. Same


    Aug 22, 2018
    Dang I might have to look into that, I was just looking the bridge thinking it should be darker also but not painted, and I think that would be a nice look though I might try it out

    Thanks man!
    Malak the Mad likes this.
  9. Malak the Mad

    Malak the Mad Over the River and through the Looking Glass Supporting Member

    No problem! :thumbsup:

    I know the pics aren't the greatest, since they were taken in direct sunlight, but this how-to-video is a much better example of the results one can get.

    Skillet likes this.

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