1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  

Peavey Pro 1600

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by ebozzz, Jan 15, 2004.

  1. ebozzz

    ebozzz Supporting Member

    May 17, 2001

    more info here

    January 15, 2004
    Peavey announced the new Pro 1600 bass amplifier head, the latest addition to the Pro Series of bass amplifiers and enclosures.

    Peavey crammed 1600 Watts of power into the Pro 1600 head, with several operational modes accessible through its built-in crossover. Users can switch among bi-amp, mono, stereo and full-range with sub modes to route the amp's power into various loudspeaker configurations. The power amp and supply use Peavey's Power Shift system, which allows the amp to be reconfigured when changing between modes.

    When the amp is switched to stereo or full-range with sub modes, the amp puts out 800 Watts into 2 Ohms per side. When in mono mode, it automatically bridges the two amps to create a massive 1600 Watt amp that drives 4 Ohms. Since the sub output typically requires more power than the high output, the Pro 1600 automatically shifts the power to the sub when the amp is in bi-amp mode, resulting in a 1200 Watt amp for the lows and a 400 Watt amp for the highs. This Peavey Power Shift technology creates a bi-amped system that is as loud as if the amp were a typical 2400 Watt power amp, but without the extra size and weight.

    The Pro 1600 also features three-band fully parametric EQ (low mid, mid and high mid) switchable from wide to narrow bandwidth and adjustable from 40 Hz up to 8 kHz for total sound control. This feature allows bassists to boost or cut amplitude and adjust frequency and bandwidth to carve out entirely individual tones. Traditional low and high EQ controls and a contour control also offer opportunities for tweaking tone.

    Peavey DDT compression protects the amplifier and speakers from clipping and distortion. This bass amp head also features a tube preamp. This amplifier also includes a Mute function; Pad for reducing the input level by 10 dB; two effects loops; XLR line outs; and 1/4" and Neutrik outputs.


    800 Watts per side into 2 Ohms; 1600 Watts into 4 Ohms bridged
    Built-in crossover with four modes: bi-amp, mono, stereo and full range with sub
    Peavey Power Shift and DDT technology
    Three-band, fully parametric EQ
    Two individual effects loops
    Mute and Pad functions
    Switching power supply
    DDT speaker protection
    1/4" and Neutrik inputs
    Two rack spaces
    U.S. MSRP $1999.99
    The Pro 1600 will be available in April 2004.

    I can just hear nickelseye going :bawl:! :D ;)
  2. Yep, I saw this in the new Bass Player. My actual expression was more like :eek: ! Looks like Peavey is addressing the low wattage issue...in a big way. Too bad the amps weren't released together...the 1600 would be mine! Maybe I'll get it anyway, use the 500 for small clubs, and the 1600 for the larger gigs, and for whenever I feel like drowning out the guitarist!! :bassist:

    This weekend I'll be using the 500 with an Aguilar GS212 (4ohm) and SWR Goliath Jr. (8 ohm)
    I want to see how the 500 will do at 2.67 ohms. A review will follow, I promise.

    Is anyone else using this amp? Am I the only one on TB?

  3. ebozzz

    ebozzz Supporting Member

    May 17, 2001
    It looks like they kinda used the old Kilobass head as a blueprint but spiced it up significantly. I've yet to see the Pro 500 in any of my local Peavey shops and I'd love to hear it. And, yes you seem to be the only person thus far to go with the 500. :)
  4. inazone


    Apr 20, 2003
    I think Rockley music has one. Give them a call to see if its still there.
  5. ebozzz

    ebozzz Supporting Member

    May 17, 2001
    My man! ;) Thanks for the heads up.
  6. the power amp is essentially the CS1200H. the switching power supply is proprietary for the pro1600.

    it's a pretty cool amp. i think it's going to be in the $2k range -- it's essentailly the stu hamm signature. if it's not, we're making a signature of the same, but i think it's most like the former.

  7. brianrost

    brianrost Gold Supporting Member

    Apr 26, 2000
    Boston, Taxachusetts
    Where does it end?

    Prior to the SVT and Acoustic 360 in 1968, the most powerful bass amps in the world were 100 watts.

    By 1990, amps in the 400-500 watt range were common.

    By 2000 Ampeg had broken the kilowatt barrier with the SVT-IV; Peavey and Walter Woods had also sold amps of 1000 watts or more.

    Now Peavey, Carvin and others have busted the 1500 watt barrier...in fact Carvin claims 1900 watts, can 2K be far away? After all some rack users are already using 2000+ watt power amps.

    When do we decide we finally have enough power? It wasn't that long ago I was playing gigs with 50 watt amps, for pete's sake.
  8. rcz-

    What's the weight (lbs) of the Pro 1600? I'm currently using a DPC 1400X with a Max Bass Preamp. I think I would really enjoy the extra EQ options the 1600 offers. Any ideas on weight would be greatly appreciated.

  9. i believe it's in the realm of that combination. in the grand sense, it's not miraculously light, but for peavey, making a 1600W 2U bass head and making it sub-30lbs. is pretty groundbreaking.

    now, if you need a buyer for your DPC, i would be interested.... :D we don't get a very good employee purchase plan here, unfortunately, so the price may be right.

    but that's neither here nor there. i'm really proud that we're finally making lightweight stuff. now if i could only get the loudspeaker guys to design some lightweight loudspeakers...

  10. my .02:

    Modern, clean, full range bass tone, from low B on up, requires lots of power. That's the reason why. You need that power to get adequate headroom to allow for transients without clipping.
  11. Well the power figures will soon hit a ceiling, there's only so much current available from a wall outlet...let's see, if the receptacle can deliver 15 amps at 120 volts, that's 1800 watts of power IF the amp is 100% efficient (which of course is impossible).

    If the Peavey draws 15 amps at 120 volts and produces 1600 watts, that makes it 89% efficient, which is pretty darn good.

    By going to a 20 amp receptacle you could get 2400 watts at 100% efficiency; at the same 89% efficiency you would have 2136 watts.

    I gotta agree with brianrost, I played many years with only 130 watts or so. 500 seems like an awful lot. 1000 or more is unbelievable.
  12. bill, you know as well as i do that these are "continuous" power ratings. the amp won't be able to supply that kind of current for more than a few cycles.

    in fact, in most amplifiers designed that way (PLX series comes to mind, or even the 2500W crown K2), the power supply is able to store more energy than the wall can instantaneously source. but it's able to source enough current to the load to be rated as such.

    of course, attempts to sustainably source that kind of current to the load will result in the automatic shutdown of the amplifier, if not an open in the wall circuit breaker.

  13. lo-freq

    lo-freq aka UFO

    Jan 19, 2003
    DFW, Texas
    Just curious about the subject of current draw.
    1. The figures you give here are based on a formula; I assume the results are the same regardless of whether you're talking RMS power or short pulses of output. Am I correct?

    2. How about regular 120VAC outlets, are the current ratings (i.e. 15A/20A/etc) based on a continuous output (of current) or short pulses?

    [As to the couple of quotes along the lines of how much power is enough, I think it depends on how loud, deep, and dynamic you want your sound to be. The more power you have on tap (assuming your cab(s) can handle it), the more flexibility you have in what you can do with your sound. Does everyone need that flexibility? Nope, but I'd rather have it and not need it than to need it and not have it (especially considering some of the PA systems and soundmen out there).]
  14. I have indeed assumed the figures Peavey gave are the true RMS power figures, and are therefore continuous sustainable power. For what it's worth, on the Peavey gear I've got, their power ratings held up--when I put their amps on a 4 ohm dummy load, driving it with a 1 kHz sine wave, I've measured the same power output they claimed. So when they claim 1600 watts into 4 ohms, I'm assuming it's RMS continuous, sustainable, and NOT "peak power" or "program power" ...if that's the case, then the current draw will be different.

    But a SMPS doesn't store any energy to speak of, unlike a linear power supply, which has a few thousand mfd of capacitors, so I don't think there's much headroom available there. Maybe a cycle or two, I dunno, I'm not an expert on switch modes. Regardless, there's still a ceiling on the maximum amount of power available from the wall outlet, the only question is "what is that ceiling" and that number could be debated depending on how one measures the amp's output or how the amp's power supply draws its current.

    Anyhow, the figures I gave are indeed from a formula: P=VI where P is power in watts, V=volts, I-current in amps. For DC this is about as easy as it gets, however in a house we're dealing with single-phase AC. The same formula still holds, however the Voltage is the RMS voltage of your AC supply. Your wall outlet doesn't store any voltage, so if you've got 120 volts available, that's the number to use, doesn't matter if it's for a millisecond or an hour. Current is the other half of the equation. Generally, and this is a broad generalization, you'll have several outlets, typically rated 15 amps, all wired into a circuit with a 20 amp circuit breaker. YMMV. The concept of "load diversity" allows this, they figure you'll have a few devices, all less than 15 amps, plugged into different receptacles, and the total load on the circuit at any one time will be less than 20 amps.

    If nothing else is plugged into that circuit, you could conceivably plug in an amp that draws 20 amps. Does that exceed the rating of the 15 amp receptacle? Yes, though the receptacle probably will survive (might not though, so don't ever plan on exceeding a rating). Will the breaker trip if you go over 20 amps? Let's hope so, though breakers don't always trip like they're supposed to. Can the breaker handle a few milliseconds of overcurrent before tripping? I don't know, I'm not familiar with the specs on breaker response. But I think that the current draw would not be able to exceed the breaker's rating for more than a tiny fraction of a second before the breaker trips...so effectively, a "short burst" of extra current draw should trip the breaker.
  15. the ratios are the same, but the actual figures are multiplied by the square root of 2, which is about 1.414. although, now that i think of it, i'm not entirely certain that a 15A wall outlet breaker won't trip at 15A peak instead of 15Arms.

    regardless, the illustration is useful only to the point of amplifiers with power supplies large enough to source current to the load continuously for a long period of time.

    these amplifiers are few, however. most amplifiers fall into the category of those which have a power supply which stores enough energy to source rated current into the load for a few cycles, typically 10ms or so. these amplifiers are able to achieve higher rated powers than the wall can source continuously, so they're not bound by 120V * 15A = 1800VA (W).

    well, as i demonstrated before, my knowledge on this isn't exactly comprehensive. but in either case -- whether it's peak or RMS -- the circuit breaker will trip when it reaches that point. so as long as you never draw more than what will trip the breaker, you can draw that current as long as you want. theoretically. i've never tried it, so i don't know how much the wires in the walls heat up and potentially cause damage.

    more germane to the argument, it really is a matter of taste. back in the day (i.e. 150W bass rigs), the bass tone was 4strings, hard to hear over the guitar and drums, and very mid-friendly and overdriven.

    more recently, actually producing fundamentals, especially the low B, has demonstrated the need for much greater amounts of power to do so cleanly and accurately. and since good speakers can take pretty much whatever you give them, people are getting more and more power for the sake of headroom.

    remember the Pro1600 isn't just some nerdy dick-flashing "look what i can do" for some jackass. it's a "signature" amp for stu hamm. the man knows what he wants and he knows how to use it.

  16. lo-freq

    lo-freq aka UFO

    Jan 19, 2003
    DFW, Texas
    Thanks for the response guys.

    Sounds like a well-designed, conventional power supplied amp not only might have better dynamic headroom than a "switching" amp, but it might be better able to 'dodge' the circuit-tripisity thing at the upper limits of power availible from your friendly(?) neighborhood electric power company while playing regular music (not using an e-bow or electric drill to excite your B sting).
  17. to clarify for those who don't know, SMPS stands for "switch-mode power supply", like in the crown i-tech or the qsc plx series amps.

    i have to disagree with you on this, Bill. a SMPS is just another type of AC to DC converter. you'll still need some sort of capacitance in which to store DC energy, just like a low frequency power supply (there's nothing linear about rectification, after all). for the power amp SMPS i've worked on, there was always capacitance to store energy. they're not just for lowpass filtering ripple currents.

    if anything, i'd say the opposite. most typically, a low frequency (big transformer) power supply is not regulated, and you therefore get a rail "sag" on the most demanding notes. a SMPS, on the other hand is more often regulated. if it able to source enough current, the bass will be tight and deep. if there isn't enough current, the bass will be thin.

    regardless, though, a SMPS is generally better at controlling power in and out. of course, the best way to reduce instantaneous current draw from the wall is to employ a PFC circuit. PFC stands for "power factor correction", and it greatly increases efficiency and decreases power consumption.

  18. gozbass


    Apr 6, 2009
    I played through a 500 for about 5 years and it sounded great. Ran it through a Peavy TX 8/10 cab @ 4 ohms. Loud as you could ask for and all kinds of tone once you figure out all the midrange controls(9). Used it a few times with a SWR 4-10 and it still sounded fine (8 ohms). Strong clean consistant power not too susceptible to brown outs and never had any issues. I'm using a Hartke 7000 now and the Peavy was the better sounding of the two. It just didn't work bi-amped to run my 18 and 4-10. Never knew they made the 1600 until i saw one on e-bay. If i could afford it right now i would buy it.
  19. BbbyBld


    Oct 13, 2005
    Meridian, MS
    I wouldn't do it. It was never released because it was thought to be too expensive, so the project was cancelled. The ones that are out there are prototypes and were sold as scrap. Some of them may work, but definitely not 100%.
  20. gozbass


    Apr 6, 2009
    Too bad , it sounds like a great piece. I hadn't ever heard of it and did not know about the details. I had the old Max 800 head for a long time and loved it.The one in a built in road case with the cs800 in the bottom. Ran it through a Peavy 18/2-10 cab for bottom and an old Ampeg V-4 guitar bottom with 4-12s for highs. Used a Crown 300 watt head and a Fender Showman bottom with 2-JBL 15s for the drummer to hear. It was all stolen when i put my rig in storage to make room for a christmas tree. Just missed one on e-bay last month. Now someone wants to sell 2 of them for $1,000. Wish i could afford them.

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.