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Pickup mounting rant

Well, except for the fact that solderless mechanical connections (when done correctly) are more reliable and provide better signal integrity than soldered connections... especially in any areas prone to vibration.

This is a completely wrong statement. There is no vibration that you can produce that will cause a GOOD solder joint to fail. The only time solder joints fail is if they are done improperly.

Soldering is a more difficult skill that it looks and the excess heat can damage the components. Why bother when you don't have to?

This too is incorrect. The amount of heat it would take to ruin any part of a pickup swap by soldering is such that only pure negligence would cause it.

I stand by my statement that the best and most reliable way to do any pickup wiring is by soldering. A good solder joint will last for decades without any work. Butt connectors, screw terminals or any other mechanical connector will fail long before any good solder joint does.
 
Jimmy,

The luthier I use (Gene Liberty) experimented with some standarized brackets and quick connect wiring for pickups on some of his guitars and basses but gave up the idea because of lack of consumer interest. I've taken up the idea on my own for a prototype instrument that I'm working on as the "best bass for metal" :D . It has interchangeable pickup holders that are infinitely adjustable and quick connect wiring so I can swap pickups back and forth eas easily as possible (and avoid having multiple screw holes in the bass body). I don't know how viable this is for the commercial builder, though. Let me see if I can get some pictures to post.
 
I wonder if some folks feel they suck at soldering, or that its difficult, because the irons they have are giving them issues? I spent countless hours cursing and burning my fingers on cheap radio shack irons and even the wellers you can get at HW stores. I just spent about $20 on a hakko at fry's recently, so not even that much of an upgrade. But its SOOOOO much better than any of the others I had before. That, and I finally figured out how to keep the tip clean. Now I feel like the solder king. I am in and out and done with the pickup installation in what feels like seconds.
 
I wonder if some folks feel they suck at soldering, or that its difficult, because the irons they have are giving them issues? I spent countless hours cursing and burning my fingers on cheap radio shack irons and even the wellers you can get at HW stores. I just spent about $20 on a hakko at fry's recently, so not even that much of an upgrade. But its SOOOOO much better than any of the others I had before. That, and I finally figured out how to keep the tip clean. Now I feel like the solder king. I am in and out and done with the pickup installation in what feels like seconds.


HUGE +1
 
This is a completely wrong statement. There is no vibration that you can produce that will cause a GOOD solder joint to fail.

False.

The point at which the solder ceases wicking into the wire creates a vibration failure point - a stiff to flexible transition that concentrates forces (see: stress riser).

Now, this shouldn't be an issue in a bass - but it's reality.

The only time solder joints fail is if they are done improperly.

No... solder joints fail due to tin whiskers, corrosion, and any number of other things even when done correctly.

Remember also - a correctly done crimp connection is a "cold weld".

Butt connectors, screw terminals or any other mechanical connector will fail long before any good solder joint does.

Lets just say the boating industry (solder connections not allowed by insurance industry due past failure issues), home wiring (heat related solder drips causing fires), and much military and aerospace - just doesn't agree.
 
I wonder if some folks feel they suck at soldering, or that its difficult, because the irons they have are giving them issues? I spent countless hours cursing and burning my fingers on cheap radio shack irons and even the wellers you can get at HW stores. I just spent about $20 on a hakko at fry's recently, so not even that much of an upgrade. But its SOOOOO much better than any of the others I had before. That, and I finally figured out how to keep the tip clean. Now I feel like the solder king. I am in and out and done with the pickup installation in what feels like seconds.

It makes a big difference.

I hate using anything cheaper than one of the low end temp controlled Weller units. I can solder with just about anything, but it makes the job a lot easier with the correct tools.

If you have to desolder as well, I highly recommend something like my Pace MBT vacuum soldering station.
 
False.

The point at which the solder ceases wicking into the wire creates a vibration failure point - a stiff to flexible transition that concentrates forces (see: stress riser).

Now, this shouldn't be an issue in a bass - but it's reality.

Thank you. Every short I've encountered has been right there.

Also, I'd like to +1 Scolba's point about ineffective tools.
 
False.

The point at which the solder ceases wicking into the wire creates a vibration failure point - a stiff to flexible transition that concentrates forces (see: stress riser).

It helps to used pre tined wire. It wicks in better

No... solder joints fail due to tin whiskers...

Tin whiskers aren't much of a problem with solder with lead in it.
 
*queue foggy memory machine*

I remember Gibson had a Les Paul guitar a decade or so ago that had the pickup sections routed completely through the body for the purpose of test driving all of their pickups. They loaded all of their various pickups on wood blocks that fit snug in the routes, and attached via 9V connector. I thought that would have been the smartest damn innovation ever. I even wrote Gibson a letter asking them if I could purchase one.

Denied. :(

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I think I may know where one is...

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
Here is what an Electrical Engineer is telling you - a correctly done crimp connection has no worse electrical conductivity than a correctly done solder joint.

Agreed. This electrical engineer is also telling you: In certain cases, a crimped connection can be more durable than a solder joint.

Wire-wrap boards were the standard for many years in digital systems, and none of those were ever soldered. Lots of them still work great.
 
It helps to used pre tined wire. It wicks in better

True, but it still creates a stress riser.

Truth is that in this application - it really doesn't matter much. Either a solder or mechanical connection done correctly is highly unlikely to fail, and neither is likely to work any better than the other.

Whatever you're most comfortable doing well is going to be the best.



Tin whiskers aren't much of a problem with solder with lead in it.

They just take longer to appear and are generally smaller - but whiskering is still an issue even with lead solders.