I like using poly finishes on my basses and this is the first time im using Cocobolo, i wiped the wood down before with lacquer thinner to try and remove the oils right before i put on the first coat of poly and its taking forever to dry, any ideas how to speed it up, or how to do it properly next time?
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polyurethaning cocobolo
- Thread starter MNbassist
- Start date
The problem with all oily woods (coco being the worst IMO) is that the oil is constantly migrating toward the surface. So the longer you wait between planing/sanding and gluing/finishing the worse this problem is.
So anything you do with coco requires that you do it as soon as possible after planing/sanding. Wipe down with acetone (like Wilser said) until you get very little oil off (you'll never get zero oil off), then apply your first coat within 5 minutes of wiping down.
Even then, if the finish you're spraying takes awhile to cure (like most uncatalyzed polys, or worse yet, nitro), then the oil is migrating up into the finish layer, and it might never cure hard. What kind of poly did you use, and how long has it been?
I've heard that you can seal with shellac or McFadden's http://www.grizzly.com/products/H5758, then clear coat over that.
A option I know works is to use a pre-catalyzed finish (polyurethane, polyester, or conversion varnish) that sets up ~10 minutes. But you need proper HVLP spray guns, and the fumes will kill you faster than crack (so you need a proper respirator or forced-air helmet when spraying).
I know one guy who just sanded to 12,000 and waxed.
So anything you do with coco requires that you do it as soon as possible after planing/sanding. Wipe down with acetone (like Wilser said) until you get very little oil off (you'll never get zero oil off), then apply your first coat within 5 minutes of wiping down.
Even then, if the finish you're spraying takes awhile to cure (like most uncatalyzed polys, or worse yet, nitro), then the oil is migrating up into the finish layer, and it might never cure hard. What kind of poly did you use, and how long has it been?
I've heard that you can seal with shellac or McFadden's http://www.grizzly.com/products/H5758, then clear coat over that.
A option I know works is to use a pre-catalyzed finish (polyurethane, polyester, or conversion varnish) that sets up ~10 minutes. But you need proper HVLP spray guns, and the fumes will kill you faster than crack (so you need a proper respirator or forced-air helmet when spraying).
I know one guy who just sanded to 12,000 and waxed.
im using minwax high gloss BRUSH on poly. I dont trust spray guns. and i thought about shellac, but it gives an orange tint to the wood (and im not talking about tinted shellac)
Musiclogic
Commercial User
- Aug 6, 2005
- 6,505
- 73
- 60
- Disclosures
- Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O
you don't trust spray guns??? Has one ripped you off at some time?...LMAO
Sometimes you have to develop a knack for using a piece of equipment.
Sometimes you have to develop a knack for using a piece of equipment.
and in my experience using a spray gun has been THE most difficult thing I've had to learn about building basses.
Musiclogic
Commercial User
- Aug 6, 2005
- 6,505
- 73
- 60
- Disclosures
- Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O
Fan, Pattern, needle depth, and gauge, dwell setting, pressure....it gets darn annoying sometimes, but once it's set, it's always set, as long as you keep it clean.
