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ProSteel SS vs. DR Lo-Riders SS: Your thoughts?

#21
MarTONEbass said:
@Double Agent: Good tip on the LaBella's, Iwill definitely have to give them a try. How's the tension on those?
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I used the 40-128T set on my Jazz and the tension was nice. I usually use 45-130 and I preferred the reduced tension of the lighter gauge. La Bella markets them as being "super-flexible and long-lasting" and that was pretty consistent with my experience. They were not sloppy loose, but very easy to play. I would imagine the 45-128T set would have slightly lower tension than Lo-Riders, but probably not enough to make a huge difference in feel or create a need to adjust your truss rod.

Another note on the La Bellas....I am a dyed-in-the-wool fan of all DR strings across the board. I have loved every set I have tried. But, the B string of the La Bella HRS was noticeably superior IMO to any B string from DR that I have used yet (nickel and ss lo-riders, DDTs, and fat beams). It felt tighter and spoke clearer all the way up and down the neck. I actually really like the response on DR B-strings and find it better than most mass-market string varities. But, the La Bella B spanked it. I went back to DRs only because I still really like them and they are easier to find and less expensive for me.
 
#22
I love the nickle plated lo-riders. I use them on one of my Aria Pro II SB's (which are known for their mid-range emphasis) and they sound smashing. They're a bit stiffer than most strings I use but I actually like about them for that particular bass.
 
#23
MarTONEbass said:
Ed Friedland uses the Fatbeams on his Carvin J basses and I believe I saw a review he did. IIRC, he said the added bottom due to the slower winding gives the string a slightly scooped sound. But like you said, your ears, my ears and our amp/bass combinations could be radically different.
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Not putting words in Ed's mouth, but in that instance I believe he was comparing FatBeams directly to Hi-Beams - as Hi-Beams were likely the only other stainless steel roundcore bass string that DR offered at the time. So the "added bottom" and "slightly scooped sound" was as compared directly to the Hi-Beams - not to stainless steel strings in general. :hmm:

MM

P.S. How did those ProSteels ever work out on your MTD? :hmm:
 
#24
Correct, I was comparing the Fat Beams to HiBeams.... essentially the same materials, but the Fat Beams are wound slower. They do sound different. You can hear for yourself Invalid Link Removed.

I have also used D'Addario Pro Steels quite a bit. They are a little higher tension than DR LoRiders, but using a .40-.100 set felt great. I used them on my old seafoam Lakie with ChiSonics. You can hear several examples of the bass on Youtube from clinics I did in the past. In fact, I used the D'Ads and detuned my E to low C and it was tight and clear. Pretty amazing for a .100!

 
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#28
After a long time of trying many different brands, my attitude towards strings is this: it's all about application. What bass are you going to put them on? What type of sound are you trying to achieve? What kind of music do you play? How do you approach the bass physically?

I have a lot of basses, and for me it's a process of deciding what kind of duty I want that instrument to pull, and matching it up with the right string. I use several brands, models, gauges... and sometimes.. I change my mind. For a while I had Jamerson flats on my Stingray... now I have Circle K rounds... Right now, I'm thinking about what strings I want to put on my recently bought 75 Ripper.... It's still getting cleaned up at the shop, so I haven't really had a chance to play it yet... so I'm starting out with some Ernie Ball Slinkys... but who knows? It's a process of figuring out what I want , and which string will get me closest.

I remember when I would lock into one brand, or set... and if I didn't have them... I felt off balance. One great thing about playing so many basses is I've learned to be more flexible, and adjust, as well as understand how to play on different setups. YMMV.
 
#29
edfriedland said:
After a long time of trying many different brands, my attitude towards strings is this: it's all about application. What bass are you going to put them on? What type of sound are you trying to achieve? What kind of music do you play? How do you approach the bass physically?

I have a lot of basses, and for me it's a process of deciding what kind of duty I want that instrument to pull, and matching it up with the right string. I use several brands, models, gauges... and sometimes.. I change my mind. For a while I had Jamerson flats on my Stingray... now I have Circle K rounds... Right now, I'm thinking about what strings I want to put on my recently bought 75 Ripper.... It's still getting cleaned up at the shop, so I haven't really had a chance to play it yet... so I'm starting out with some Ernie Ball Slinkys... but who knows? It's a process of figuring out what I want , and which string will get me closest.

I remember when I would lock into one brand, or set... and if I didn't have them... I felt off balance. One great thing about playing so many basses is I've learned to be more flexible, and adjust, as well as understand how to play on different setups. YMMV.
Click to expand...

I agree with this. One brand (or gauge) of strings doesn't work to get the optimal performance out of all basses. You have to experiment to see what works with each instrument. I love Hi-Beams but they don't work on every bass. Different strings will bring out different characteristics of your basses tone. It's a balancing act between tone, feel and playability.
 
#30
edfriedland said:
After a long time of trying many different brands, my attitude towards strings is this: it's all about application. What bass are you going to put them on? What type of sound are you trying to achieve? What kind of music do you play? How do you approach the bass physically?

I have a lot of basses, and for me it's a process of deciding what kind of duty I want that instrument to pull, and matching it up with the right string. I use several brands, models, gauges... and sometimes.. I change my mind. For a while I had Jamerson flats on my Stingray... now I have Circle K rounds... Right now, I'm thinking about what strings I want to put on my recently bought 75 Ripper.... It's still getting cleaned up at the shop, so I haven't really had a chance to play it yet... so I'm starting out with some Ernie Ball Slinkys... but who knows? It's a process of figuring out what I want , and which string will get me closest.

I remember when I would lock into one brand, or set... and if I didn't have them... I felt off balance. One great thing about playing so many basses is I've learned to be more flexible, and adjust, as well as understand how to play on different setups. YMMV.
Click to expand...

a big +1

M
 
#31
EagleMoon said:
I agree with this. One brand (or gauge) of strings doesn't work to get the optimal performance out of all basses. You have to experiment to see what works with each instrument. I love Hi-Beams but they don't work on every bass. Different strings will bring out different characteristics of your basses tone. It's a balancing act between tone, feel and playability.
Click to expand...

and +1

M
 
#32
So I was just perusing this thread again, for the first time in many months...and I noticed that the OP never followed up with his string change experimentation.

What's up, MarTONEbass? What did you ultimately decide re: ProSteels vs. steel Lo-Riders on your MTD and your Lull? And how did it all work out? :confused:

MM
 
#33
I agree OP should follow up.

If wanna offer my two cents. They're like opposites of eachother!
Prosteel: Very bright and low tension. Squeaky sounding and it doesn't seem to go away.
Lo-rider: Dark and high tension, surface is easier on the fingers. Almost reminds me of flats or pressurewounds once played in for a month.
 
#34
markanini said:
….
Lo-rider: Dark and high tension, surface is easier on the fingers. Almost reminds me of flats or pressurewounds once played in for a month.
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:confused: you're kidding, right? sorry, I know it is your experience, but it is not even close to my experience!
I don't get the thing about the lo riders being hi tension, IME they have a pretty average tension and are pretty solid and punchy, definitely not dark!
:smug:
 
#36
I switched from DR Hi Beams to Pro Steels. saving money with each purchase. I like to slap and they do the job fior me just as well. I say it's your money, your axe, your tone, your choice play on what you want. I have a fresh pack of Ernie Ball Super slinky's on reserve if I'm ever in a pinch. I have a set of musicians gear on my Geddy Lee Jazz. After I wiped them down they sound good when new too. The Pro Steels were recommended to my by Rodney Skeet Curtis, bass player for Maceo. I'm a funk guy. so how could I go wrong in listening to a guy who has my dream gig? On average I'm saving about $10.00 per purchase. I also do not find the pro steels to be clanky. Clanky is technique, amp, bass settings related.
 
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