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Rattlecan help ?

Trying to do a 2-color metallic(not flake) burst on my diy jazzbass kit, got some runs/splutter while applying the second color ( Darn cheap rattlecans / greedy me )

Question : Can I sand this out before clearcoat or do I have to re-paint the whole thing? Also : if I can sand it how fine grit do I have to use ? Kinda regretting the whole burst-thing as the first coat/color was pretty decent.:hiding:

any advice would be helpful, kind of a noob with finishes . . .
 
we cannot answer this, because we do not know how bad the runs, how long you waited between coats, or any of the other specifics.

I would say scrap the idea, and have a paint shop do it, if you want a nice finish. You said yourself the first coat was "pretty decent". You did not say it was good. The fact that you are asking paint questions on here is not indicative of someone who knows what they are doing.

people notice shotty work. They will see the finish on that bass. have it done right.
 
we cannot answer this, because we do not know how bad the runs, how long you waited between coats, or any of the other specifics.

I would say scrap the idea, and have a paint shop do it, if you want a nice finish. You said yourself the first coat was "pretty decent". You did not say it was good. The fact that you are asking paint questions on here is not indicative of someone who knows what they are doing.

people notice shotty work. They will see the finish on that bass. have it done right.

Paying a shop to paint it would cost more than the bass ( Its a harley benton kit Invalid Link Removed ).
I'm doing this for fun/learning so if the bass is playable when I'm done I'll be happy ;)
 
we cannot answer this, because we do not know how bad the runs, how long you waited between coats, or any of the other specifics.

I would say scrap the idea, and have a paint shop do it, if you want a nice finish. You said yourself the first coat was "pretty decent". You did not say it was good. The fact that you are asking paint questions on here is not indicative of someone who knows what they are doing.

people notice shotty work. They will see the finish on that bass. have it done right.

If everyone had this attitude, no one would ever learn how to do anything.

OP do you have any pictures of what you are dealing with. It would help to see the problem you are having.
 
Hi.

Metallic paints generally can't be just sanded and clear-coated. Regardless of the applying method.

The particle orientation deeper in the paint layer is not uniform because that orientation is determined and forced by the suface tension in the liquid state to keep the particles flat(ish).
The sunken in particles don't have a specific orientation, so the runs and splatters "jump out" as having less metallic particles when You sand them.


A few tips from a few decades of occasional use of rattle cans.

Do not cheap out, cheap paint/can results automatically a cheap looking paint job unless You can wet-sand it smooth and buff it later.
Un-necessary or easier with quality paints.

PRACTISE:
That may sound ignorant, "everyone can paint with rattle cans", but IMHO as a someone who has painted cars for living at one point, I'd say using rattle cans are at least twice as hard as painting with a gun. Even a cheap gun.

With the new EU regulations, rattle cans are so darn expensive as well that using them for anything other than an occasional use will be very expensive.

A good tip with any rattle can is to warm the paint in warm water before spraying. That usually thins it and makes it to flow more constantly.
It's also advisable to let the can sit upright for a few minutes after shaking it, but on some metallics the particles may separate rather quickly.

If You have to (want to) shake the can while You're painting, clear the pick up tube of the air bubbles before you spray at the surface.

Always start and stop the spray outside the surface being painted.

Good luck, ignore the naysayers and once again, PRACTISE.

Regards
Sam
 
Hi.

or maybe some things are better learned from someone with experience, not just tried as a shot in the dark...

While I do agree that on hand learning with a pro is preferable, not everyone has that luxury.
IME experienced painters are a prime example of people who usually are very protective about their "secrets" as well, so getting one to teach You may prove to be difficult to say the least.
One thing is certain though, if You show up with a cheap rattle can to the "lesson", all you're going to get is :eyebrow:.

AND

While I do agree that learning from the mistakes of the others is better than making Your own, nothing teaches better than making a mistake and learning how to avoid that in the future.

Regards
Sam
 
Hi.

Metallic paints generally can't be just sanded and clear-coated. Regardless of the applying method.

The particle orientation deeper in the paint layer is not uniform because that orientation is determined and forced by the suface tension in the liquid state to keep the particles flat(ish).
The sunken in particles don't have a specific orientation, so the runs and splatters "jump out" as having less metallic particles when You sand them.


A few tips from a few decades of occasional use of rattle cans.

Do not cheap out, cheap paint/can results automatically a cheap looking paint job unless You can wet-sand it smooth and buff it later.
Un-necessary or easier with quality paints.

PRACTISE:
That may sound ignorant, "everyone can paint with rattle cans", but IMHO as a someone who has painted cars for living at one point, I'd say using rattle cans are at least twice as hard as painting with a gun. Even a cheap gun.

With the new EU regulations, rattle cans are so darn expensive as well that using them for anything other than an occasional use will be very expensive.

A good tip with any rattle can is to warm the paint in warm water before spraying. That usually thins it and makes it to flow more constantly.
It's also advisable to let the can sit upright for a few minutes after shaking it, but on some metallics the particles may separate rather quickly.

If You have to (want to) shake the can while You're painting, clear the pick up tube of the air bubbles before you spray at the surface.

Always start and stop the spray outside the surface being painted.

Good luck, ignore the naysayers and once again, PRACTISE.

Regards
Sam

The answer to what I was asking . Thank you Sam :)
 
or maybe some things are better learned from someone with experience, not just tried as a shot in the dark...

I learned by doing, watching videos on youtube and reading. I never had anyone show me anything. I have gotten pretty good at building and finishing.

Like I said with that attitude we would never learn anything new.
 
I have experimented with Valspar and Rustoleum metallic rattle cans just to test the advice of so many "experts" that say you can't use non-lacquer based metallics with lacquer clear coats. Well, that proved to be incorrect...it's a matter of application. And one of the things I have learned that Sam mentioned is getting the can warm first...and that's with any rattle can, not just metallics. But I have never been able to wet sand a spot and go from there...always have to respray touch up areas. Work with lighter coats when using the metallics, and I have also found that you get better results if you spray your final metallic coat a little farther away than your other coats. It creates a better settling pattern for the metallic particulates and although it creates a little more "dusting" effect, once it is FULLY dried, you can hit it with a tack cloth to get the dust off of it. The final rule...patience. You can't rush any paints...they won't let you. Give things a time to cure, especially if you are using lacquer.

r/Chris