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Double Bass Realist Lifeline failing?

Hi everyone. I've asked a few questions here and settled on a set up with an AI S4+ and blending a DPA mic and Realist Lifeline pickup. I was playing an outdoor gig today and started hearing some noisy static/scratching/shorting out sound so I turned down and finished the tune without the amp. Figured it was the chord, switched out cables and then no longer got any sound.

Went home, tried one more cable - can confirm that both channels work on the mic end, but seems like my pickup is no longer picking anything up. If I tap right by the adjuster where it's installed, I can hear some tapping coming through the amp but no audible volume from the bass.

Pretty alarmed how quickly it failed - I did self install using the instructions from Gollihur about two months ago. Has anyone experienced something similar? I'm not sure if there's perhaps a problem with my installation. I live near Upton Bass so I know I can bring it in, but not sure who is typically helpful with pickups. Open to anything.

Thanks!
 
I‘m pretty sure you get a replacement.
It might have had a manufacturing flaw that made it that sensitive to failure.

On the other hand, these pickups are basically slotted piezo disks with some reinforcement to avoid bending (and maybe with a thicker ceramic and different sensitivity orientation).
The cable outlet from the sensor might not be fixed well enough or something pulled at the cable which might have put stress on the soldering inside the sensor that could have detached the thin silver plating at the solder point from the piezo ceramic.

But always the first and easiest to check is the jack. Resoldering inside the jack (if something got broken in there) is the easiest and quickest thing.

Anyway, after two weeks you should get a replacement.
Just always be cautious with the pickup cable, regardless which pickup you use.
 
A couple years ago I thought my lifeline was toast due to a similar buzzing issue. The issue happened to actually be that the pickup wasn’t making total contact with the bridge. You have to make sure the center of the pickup is snug right up next to the adjuster. I’d personally double check that before sending it in for a warranty issue. The lifeline I have on my main bass is 10 years old and still going strong.

If it is a defect, call David Gage’s shop and they’ll sort it out. I had a Realist Woodtone break on me after a month, so they had me send it in and gave me a Copperhead for no extra charge.
 
A couple years ago I thought my lifeline was toast due to a similar buzzing issue. The issue happened to actually be that the pickup wasn’t making total contact with the bridge. You have to make sure the center of the pickup is snug right up next to the adjuster. I’d personally double check that before sending it in for a warranty issue. The lifeline I have on my main bass is 10 years old and still going strong.

If it is a defect, call David Gage’s shop and they’ll sort it out. I had a Realist Woodtone break on me after a month, so they had me send it in and gave me a Copperhead for no extra charge.
Yes, the pickup must make full and even contact with the bridge. Any gaps can cause the symptom you describe. Also, I’ve experienced problems with a certain cable (Planet Waves) no making full contact to the tip + in the jack. The Lifeline is a good pickup.
 
Yes, the pickup must make full and even contact with the bridge. Any gaps can cause the symptom you describe. Also, I’ve experienced problems with a certain cable (Planet Waves) no making full contact to the tip + in the jack. The Lifeline is a good pickup.
Yep, that was it! Re set it and rolling just fine now! Thanks y’all!

recommend having a luthier set it up? Does this tend to happen every few months if not?
 
A number of folks, with a variety of pickups that have failed, have been turning to Vic's Model B as an inexpensive but nice quality backup piezo pickup, with a high level of satisfaction. The Model B is a lot of a wing pickup for $50US (dual piezo chips in a single pickup, current price listed, NFI), and people may even get away without a pre-amp.

For some of us, Vic's pickups are the only piezo systems we use.
 
I'm having the same problem. It would work, or not, according to its whims.
It has been mounted for a couple of years though plugged in very few times.
Sometimes it would work, others not.
Now it is not working at all.
I've tried the advice found here...repositioning, good contact with adjustment post, make sure the socket is clean...tested with various patch cords that work with other instruments...
I think it is a brilliant design but I can't afford a second one.
I can't find a trouble-shooting guide anywhere for the Realist Lifeline.
I'm at a loss. I've unmounted the pickup.
It looks brand new, but I cannot get it to give a signal to the amp.
Should there be some signal to the amp if I rub the pickup or snap it with my fingernail...or squeeze it?
I'm getting nothing and I don't know the likely failure points, how to test, and how to repair them.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I haven't heard anything back from David Gage yet.
Thanks, :)
 
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Hopefully you can repair the lead. If not there are cheaper options like Vic’s Pickups or the KNA DB-1. Attempting a “repair” on a piezo pickup isn’t
something I’ve ever done. After having two Realist (Copper Foil) fail on me I moved on to the Ehrlund EAP/RedEye Twin Preamp combination just my take.
 
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Most Piezo pickup are ceramic based piezos, either a thin disc on a metal plate (mostly bending sensitive) or a thicker cut (few mm) of a disc that is cut to be mostly pressure sensitive. A few are piezoelectric synthetic foils.

The ceramic itself is not solderable, so either a large area conductive glue or a paint of liquid silver is used to catch the electrons and be able to solder wires on.

Either the shielding wires are all broken due to mechanic stress or the wire solders torches thin silver coating has detached from the piezo material (also mostly because of mechanic stress).
I have repaired a Shadow SH-450 (similar to an Underwood) two times where the shield broke due to mechanical stress.

I tried the liquid silver repair one or two times on a piezo disc, but it needs a long time to get really dry to not getting detached again. And still didn‘t hold as well as the original coating.
It seems that the connections to the piezo (open ring at the Lifeline) is not accessible on the Lifeline, so the piezo connections are hardly repairable at all.

I would instead get a single element Yamahiko. The cable there is detachable and available as a replacement part. Maybe a bit different in sound and more expensive, but worth the extra cost.
 
Thanks for all your suggestions.
Until I can perform some kind of definitive function test as it is, I'm leery of cutting any wires.
I did receive a reply from Judy at David Gage. They've been on vacation but hope they can help me in some way so the future looks less grim.
Very nice people to get back to me so quickly....as are you lot :)
Thanks again