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Reflections on the Charvel San Dimas Pro Mod IV (kinda long)

Bar Band Bassman

Supporting Member
Aug 26, 2010
2,862
5,770
Land of Mary
I've been following various threads, reviews, etc. on the San Dimas. Managed to get one at a good price and thought I'd share my experience:

Got a blue one "Used". Good thing. The white was too plain and the green was, well, green... Came with all the original packing and tags, still had plastic on the tuners and backplate. Not a horrible set-up but not great. This thing is a beast. Some folks described it as "punchy". Yeah, like Mike Tyson! I would say "aggressive". Like "My guitar wants to kill your momma" (thx F. Zappa) aggressive. It was also pretty noisy. I want to keep it so I did Low End Lobster's shielding approach (thx! Video on YouTube). I had all the materials left from previous projects so all it cost was time. That solved the noise issue. I don't feel that the preamp is unusable, in fact I like it. I have lots of basses with lots of different preamps and this one is pretty OK. You can adjust the gain with the trimpot on the preamp, which I tried, but opted to return it to the original setting. What I discovered is the preamp, with all the tone controls set to minimum, is about unity gain with the passive bypass (vol push/pull). So, for me, the way to operate this preamp effectively is all about cut rather than boost (which is how I use my other active basses). It's different, but not inherently bad.

On to the set-up: I was not able to lower the "G" string to the action I wanted as the bridge sits too high. The saddle was set to it's lowest point. I removed the neck and put in a shim. I only shim the end, not the entire pocket, which gives the neck a slight rake that I actually prefer, as it makes lower fret access more comfortable. I really wish more mfrs. would make their neck pockets slightly deeper with a tilt adjustment and/or slightly angled back. One of my pet peeves and a reason I love my Kubicki Ex Factor. One thing the shim facilitated was it gave me the ability to set the p/u heights to even out the output, a common complaint on this bass and P/J's in general. A tip here - put a bit of bar soap (not liquid) on the p/u height screws before reinstallation, they will work far more easily. Nice that the foam they use is thick enough and firm enough to offer a wide range of height adjustment (are you paying attention, Squier?).

Now, shimmed, shielded and set-up, I'm ready to go! But wait - the open "A" string buzzes horribly on the first fret! Upon further investigation, it turns out the nut is cut very poorly! The "G" string slot is much too high, the "D" is OK, the "A" and "E" are too low. Out come the nut files, super glue, and baking soda. Cut the "G" string slot to proper depth, a touch of super glue and a sprinkle of baking soda on the "E" and "A" slots (a really handy repair technique, also works for stripped screw holes), re-cut to desired depth and NOW I've got a bass that's a pleasure to play. Not for every gig, but it will have its place.

I see why folks have issues with these basses. Seems QC is spotty. Am I happy with this bass? Yes. Am I happy it took so much effort to make it that way? Definitely not. As you might gather, I have a real fondness for maximizing the potential of my basses. A bass that's perfect out of the box is, frankly, a bit disappointing. There's a world of difference, though, between tweaking and tinkering, and full-on repair before it's usable. I wonder if these "used" basses are unmarked factory seconds of some kind.

Thanks for reading. I welcome any comments.
 
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Thanks for sharing! I have very nearly pulled the trigger on this same bass (blue San Dimas) multiple times, but the example I had in hand locally had a lot of finish issues I couldn't get past for the price. It played great and sounded fab, if a bit noisy.

Glad you got a solid one and work out the kinks! I will keep my eyes peeled for a used one around me. If I could get a clean example with a good neck in the $500-600 range I'd jump right on it!
 
I should add - I'm considering a Kickass bridge. Might want a bit wider string spacing than the current bridge offers. Also, in regards to shimming the neck - I'm well aware it may cause "toe up" in the long run but my experience over the years is that has not been an issue on previous basses, and the older I get the shorter the "long run" gets...
 
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On bolt on necks the end where the neck/body joint is will sometimes, over a long period of time, bend up slightly, causing notes high up the neck, typically above the 12th fret, to "fret out", i.e. fretting or buzzing badly on a fret higher than the one being fretted. Shimming can sometimes exacerbate this. It's not common, but frequent enough that we have a name for it!
 
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On bolt on necks the end where the neck/body joint is will sometimes, over a long period of time, bend up slightly, causing notes high up the neck, typically above the 12th fret, to "fret out", i.e. fretting or buzzing badly on a fret higher than the one being fretted. Shimming can sometimes exacerbate this. It's not common, but frequent enough that we have a name for it!
Interesting. I’ve never experienced this before… I think. Hard to say, really. I’ve certainly played basses that had the problem of fretting out up high on the neck but having never known about “toe-up” as a phenomenon, I’ve never looked for it. I’ll keep my eye out going forward. Thanks for sharing!
 
I have been looking hard at a blue one at a local shop. I find I like everything about it except the lack of a B string. I know about the 5 string but I don't like the colors and I would miss the cream pickups.

I dont have any use for a 4 string bass right now but the tone, looks, neck and weight/balance seems just right.
 
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I have been looking hard at a blue one at a local shop. I find I like everything about it except the lack of a B string. I know about the 5 string but I don't like the colors and I would miss the cream pickups.

I dont have any use for a 4 string bass right now but the tone, looks, neck and weight/balance seems just right.
^This 1000%

If the Blue/cream combo were available in a 5 I would have purchased LONG ago. It's everything I want in a 5, except for the 5th string. I already have two 4-string PJs and would love a 5 to go with them, but I just can't do gold hardware and am not wild about those colors.

Then Fender releases the MonoNeon, another awesome bass configuration with a roasted maple neck but terrible colors and gold hardware! oof! Please Fender just make a nice P or J with a roasted maple neck and non-gaudy colors/hardware! Just gunna hafta make my own again, I guess.
 
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I have been looking hard at a blue one at a local shop. I find I like everything about it except the lack of a B string. I know about the 5 string but I don't like the colors and I would miss the cream pickups.

I dont have any use for a 4 string bass right now but the tone, looks, neck and weight/balance seems just right.
Both of the Jazz versions have the cream pickups, if that’s of any interest to you.

Also, the Model J does come in a cream version so you could always buy new ones and swap them out, or ask around and see if anybody wants to trade pickup covers with you. Just an idea.
 
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Just in case anybody comes along in the future looking for some detailed info on these basses, I’ve just measured the tuners and post holes in the headstock. All measurements are +/- 1-2mm, as my callipers aren’t the best.

Headstock holes: 18.5mm
Bushing crown (the part at the top that covers the hole): 20.7mm
OG Charvel tuner post diameter: 13.6mm

This means that the tuners and holes are sized for GOTOH tuners, not Hipshot ones. I verified this myself, by trying to install a set of 1/2” USA Ultralights: the posts are comically small, and the bushings are too. You’ll want to make sure that your set comes with the extra crown piece that covers the rest of the hole (which are often not included when you buy these used from ppl). Of course, you can add tape or whatever to make the hipshots fit but if you want a truly drop-in replacement, you’ll want gotoh or other similarly-sized ones. I think the Schaller ones are also slightly larger than Hipshot. :thumbsup:
 
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This means that the tuners and holes are sized for GOTOH tuners, not Hipshot ones. I verified this myself, by trying to install a set of 1/2” USA Ultralights: the posts are comically small, and the bushings are too. You’ll want to make sure that your set comes with the extra crown piece that covers the rest of the hole (which are often not included when you buy these used from ppl). Of course, you can add tape or whatever to make the hipshots fit but if you want a truly drop-in replacement, you’ll want gotoh or other similarly-sized ones. I think the Schaller ones are also slightly larger than Hipshot. :thumbsup:

I love Hipshot ultralights, but this is a common problem. All I do is put a couple wraps of electrical tape around the ferrules to make them a little thicker and fit the headstock holes better. I’ve never had a problem doing it that way.
 
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I should add - I'm considering a Kickass bridge.
Did you get the kickass bridge? I’m curious as to whether the kickass saddles would fit on the existing Charvel bridge, since they’re very similar in design.

This means that the tuners and holes are sized for GOTOH tuners, not Hipshot ones.
As an update, I was wrong about this. I’ve since installed USA ultralights on my 5J. If you buy a set of 18” adapter bushings direct from Hipshot, they fit very nicely with a little bit of electrical tape around the business before installation!
 
Did you get the kickass bridge? I’m curious as to whether the kickass saddles would fit on the existing Charvel bridge, since they’re very similar in design.

I did not. Maybe in the future.


As an update, I was wrong about this. I’ve since installed USA ultralights on my 5J. If you buy a set of 18” adapter bushings direct from Hipshot, they fit very nicely with a little bit of electrical tape around the business before installation!
 
Did you get the kickass bridge? I’m curious as to whether the kickass saddles would fit on the existing Charvel bridge, since they’re very similar in design.


As an update, I was wrong about this. I’ve since installed USA ultralights on my 5J. If you buy a set of 18” adapter bushings direct from Hipshot, they fit very nicely with a little bit of electrical tape around the business before installation!
I’m back again to update this post - I should probably have started my own thread, since this one is basically dead lol

Anyway, the stock bridge is made by Kluson. I haven’t been able to find replacement saddles but you can certainly buy the entire thing from Kluson if you ever need to replace it.

Some Hipshot bridges will fit as a drop in replacement, and it’s easy to find replacement saddles and parts for Hipshot, so that might be the way to go if you’re looking to swap out your bridge.

I received a PM from another member asking about the adapter bushings for the headstock. The ones I got were the 1/2” adapters for 18mm holes. They press fit perfectly after I applied a little electrical tape around the post of the bushing. They didn’t necessarily need the tape but my thought was that tighter is better, so that’s what I did.

Here are a couple pictures of the headstock after the swap:

IMG_4868.jpeg
IMG_4869.jpeg
 
I’m back again to update this post - I should probably have started my own thread, since this one is basically dead lol

Anyway, the stock bridge is made by Kluson. I haven’t been able to find replacement saddles but you can certainly buy the entire thing from Kluson if you ever need to replace it.

Some Hipshot bridges will fit as a drop in replacement, and it’s easy to find replacement saddles and parts for Hipshot, so that might be the way to go if you’re looking to swap out your bridge.

I received a PM from another member asking about the adapter bushings for the headstock. The ones I got were the 1/2” adapters for 18mm holes. They press fit perfectly after I applied a little electrical tape around the post of the bushing. They didn’t necessarily need the tape but my thought was that tighter is better, so that’s what I did.

Here are a couple pictures of the headstock after the swap:

View attachment 5051967 View attachment 5051968

I installed Hipshot Ultralites on my Charvel and have the same exposed screw holes. Did you end up filling the holes, adding back the old screws, or leaving as-is?
 
I installed Hipshot Ultralites on my Charvel and have the same exposed screw holes. Did you end up filling the holes, adding back the old screws, or leaving as-is?
I just left them. It doesn’t hurt anything and i don’t look at the back of the headstock. And also, if I ever end up selling the bass the old tuners might get put back on and I don’t want to have to re-drill the holes
 
I’m back again to update this post - I should probably have started my own thread, since this one is basically dead lol

Anyway, the stock bridge is made by Kluson. I haven’t been able to find replacement saddles but you can certainly buy the entire thing from Kluson if you ever need to replace it.

Some Hipshot bridges will fit as a drop in replacement, and it’s easy to find replacement saddles and parts for Hipshot, so that might be the way to go if you’re looking to swap out your bridge.

I received a PM from another member asking about the adapter bushings for the headstock. The ones I got were the 1/2” adapters for 18mm holes. They press fit perfectly after I applied a little electrical tape around the post of the bushing. They didn’t necessarily need the tape but my thought was that tighter is better, so that’s what I did.

Here are a couple pictures of the headstock after the swap:

View attachment 5051967 View attachment 5051968
Every now and again, somebody ‘likes’ this post or messages me to ask questions, so I thought I’d just say this here: If you’re wanting to replicate the look of my bass here, please note that you have to get the mini clover tuners. They have both a smaller head and a shorter tuning post than the regular Hipshot USA clovers (and are certainly far smaller than the stock ones).