Hi all. I've seen lots and lots of posts on here about proper neck relief and how to measure it. And several references as to where to measure it, but these can vary widely between posters. Setup guides also vary on this topic; the Bass Player online archive says to measure at the 8th fret, while the Gary Willis guide doesn't specify. I've recently been looking for another bass, and noticed a lot of basses (including some high-end models) seem to have their relief point set around the 10th or 11th fret. To my mind, this is a Very Bad Thing(tm). With the relief point that high, it's almost like people are using relief to adjust neck angle - and it seems horrifying to think an expensive neck-thru bass would require this type of band-aid shortcut to get a good setup. I've also been working with a new midrange model that seems to require this type of adjustment - with a straighter neck, the saddle screws aren't tall enough to kill the fret buzz. Maybe this neck is set too high in the pocket? Many years ago I was taught the relief point for a guitar should be at the 7th fret, and on a bass it should be in the range of the 7th to 9th fret. I've been doing my own setups for 20 years without all the fancy gadgets like capos and feeler gauges, just eyeball the neck from the bridge end and see where it begins to "lift off". I like my relief point to be at the 7th fret, period. I don't use the truss rod to adjust the action, I use it to adjust the neck so the relief point is at it's proper location. The bridge is for adjusting the action. Now I'm questioning my way of thinking. I see expensive basses with crappy setups using a relief point high enough to be a cheap neck angle adjustment, then I search posts here and find various comments to the ultimate effect of "the relief point doesn't matter." So my question is very simple - where should the relief point be on a bass neck? Does it matter? I'd be very interested in a pro tech or luthier's opinion on this. Also, can a wooden neck be "trained" to get the break angle at the point I want it? I was thinking this might be accomplished by combining truss adjustments with varying string tension, by detuning so the neck straightens to the desired point and letting it sit for a few weeks. Not sure it would work though.