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Removing Material Under Pickguard To Reduce Weight

How's the B? Mine is awful. Hoping it is something to do with the integrity of connection of bridge to body (screw) or nut to neck (glue), mine have both been compromised but functional because of redundancy. I wonder if it is affecting the B, which is so incredibly bad I am almost embarrassed on having spent what I did on this instrument.
The B-string on mine is fantastic. Tight and punchy and articulate, and it sounds like the other strings on the bass.

It's hard to say what the problem with yours might be, but could be anything from pickup heights to string twisting to poor neck/body joint to overall setup. I've also found with MANY basses over the years that a lighter touch makes for a better B-string, regardless of scale length. I've adapted my technique to get the most out of a B-string and it's worked out well on the many I have. Still, my Gecko is at the top of the heap of my B-string basses (6 total), and I don't have a single bad one.
 
I know some say it’s not worth it, but I’m in the camp that says removing ounces can matter. Of course there’s a point where either you get to diminishing returns, or get an unbalanced instrument.

I’ve routed beneath the Pickguard before , as well as other weight reduction tricks….and the way I approach it is to …..

1) make sure the bass is well balanced “as is”…. If not, you’re fighting a losing battle mostly. Although you can use some of the following tricks to get some of that balance back…. As well as trying things like moving strap buttons, etc….

2) change to an ultralight tuner set like Hipshot or Gotoh UL’s. Then I’ll measure the weight difference between old tuners and new ones. This is usually 3-6 ounces difference.

3) knowing that if I have, say “4 ounces of difference by changing tuners” … I then know I can take away 4 ounces of weight in the body and keep it balanced. This weight can come from moving to a lighter weight bridge, or routing under the guard, lighter weight knobs, etc. The one thing I’d keep in mind is that if you’re changing to a lighter bridge, keeping toward the “same” amount of weight reduction as the tuners is more important because the bridge is typically at the the furthest end of the body, so removed weight has a more extreme effect on balance.

4) if I’m removing by routing under the guard, I find I can remove a bit more weight in wood than the tuner swap saves…. Nearly 1.5-2x the amount. UNLESS I’m swapping a bridge as well.

To simplify, if I’ve saved 4 ounces by swapping tuners, I can use a 4 ounce lighter bridge and keep pretty close to the same balance. Weight savings would be 1/2 lb.

If I’m swapping tuners and ONLY relieving weight under the Pickguard, I can remove 6-8 ounces of wood from under the guard. On a lighter body, you’re unlikely to be able to remove this much, but on something like a heavy mahogany body, taking away 6-8oz can feel massively different, at least to me. To get that kind of weight removal generally requires routing though, a forstner but wound usually do it.

Of course as I’m doing these things I’m consistently testing balance on a strap. There are plenty of times where you can do all the weight saving things…. Tuners, bridge, knobs, and under guard relief. But I wouldn’t try all of it without testing balance each step of the way. But I’ve saved close to a lb on a bass before by doing this, and believe me…there is a HUGE difference between a 10lb bass and a 9lb bass to a gigging bassist with a bad back ! :)

Long winded post, I know…..


PS: you can also save a little by ditching the heavy neck plate on bolt on necks and using ferrules instead.

I’m not saying that any of these things into themselves are usually a dramatic difference, but when you add them all up it certainly can be.
 
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I know some say it’s not worth it, but I’m in the camp that says removing ounces can matter. Of course there’s a point where either you get to diminishing returns, or get an unbalanced instrument.

I’ve routed beneath the Pickguard before , as well as other weight reduction tricks….and the way I approach it is to …..

1) make sure the bass is well balanced “as is”…. If not, you’re fighting a losing battle mostly. Although you can use some of the following tricks to get some of that balance back…. As well as trying things like moving strap buttons, etc….

2) change to an ultralight tuner set like Hipshot or Gotoh UL’s. Then I’ll measure the weight difference between old tuners and new ones. This is usually 3-6 ounces difference.

3) knowing that if I have, say “4 ounces of difference by changing tuners” … I then know I can take away 4 ounces of weight in the body and keep it balanced. This weight can come from moving to a lighter weight bridge, or routing under the guard, lighter weight knobs, etc. The one thing I’d keep in mind is that if you’re changing to a lighter bridge, keeping toward the “same” amount of weight reduction as the tuners is more important because the bridge is typically at the the furthest end of the body, so removed weight has a more extreme effect on balance.

4) if I’m removing by routing under the guard, I find I can remove a bit more weight in wood than the tuner swap saves…. Nearly 1.5-2x the amount. UNLESS I’m swapping a bridge as well.

To simplify, if I’ve saved 4 ounces by swapping tuners, I can use a 4 ounce lighter bridge and keep pretty close to the same balance. Weight savings would be 1/2 lb.

If I’m swapping tuners and ONLY relieving weight under the Pickguard, I can remove 6-8 ounces of wood from under the guard. On a lighter body, you’re unlikely to be able to remove this much, but on something like a heavy mahogany body, taking away 6-8oz can feel massively different, at least to me. To get that kind of weight removal generally requires routing though, a forstner but wound usually do it.

Of course as I’m doing these things I’m consistently testing balance on a strap. There are plenty of times where you can do all the weight saving things…. Tuners, bridge, knobs, and under guard relief. But I wouldn’t try all of it without testing balance each step of the way. But I’ve saved close to a lb on a bass before by doing this, and believe me…there is a HUGE difference between a 10lb bass and a 9lb bass to a gigging bassist with a bad back ! :)

Long winded post, I know…..


PS: you can also save a little by ditching the heavy neck plate on bolt on necks and using ferrules instead.

I’m not saying that any of these things into themselves are usually a dramatic difference, but when you add them all up it certainly can be.
This post inspired me, thanks.
Discovering forstner drill bits was a LOT of fun.
The mistake I made (crack in the finish) were because I got over zealous with my chisels but that's my bad for rushing at the end. It's a keeper bass that was already modded so I was never going to sell it.

My dodgy DIY chambering took off 230g. Swapping to gotoh gb350s another 200g saving. A roughly equivalent reduction head and body. No noticeable change to the balance. A noticeable change to the pull on my shoulder.

Happy with the weight change outcome and I learnt a lot in the process

IMG-20240909-WA0003.jpeg
 
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I agree that shaving off a few ounces here and a few ounces there can make a noticeable difference in the comfort of playing a bass. It's worth the effort.

On my own Scroll Basses that I build, I've found a big difference in comfort and feel between one that's 8 lbs and one that's 9 lbs. For a full size bass, 8 lbs is a nice weight range that most players will notice and prefer.

And yes, you do need keep it balanced while removing weight. The combination of lighter tuners and some chambering in the forward part of the body is a good plan.
 
I agree that shaving off a few ounces here and a few ounces there can make a noticeable difference in the comfort of playing a bass. It's worth the effort.

On my own Scroll Basses that I build, I've found a big difference in comfort and feel between one that's 8 lbs and one that's 9 lbs. For a full size bass, 8 lbs is a nice weight range that most players will notice and prefer.

And yes, you do need keep it balanced while removing weight. The combination of lighter tuners and some chambering in the forward part of the body is a good plan.
You hit the nail right on the head Bruce. One pound is a big difference on the shoulder. My VM jazz bass is my least used jazz because it’s 10 pounds. My main 9 pounder feels significantly more comfortable on the shoulder. The only thing I ascribe to is not carving away wood in the nut through bridge “highway”.