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Repairing pulled strap buttons on basswood body

gil_mor

gil_mor

Apr 24, 2006
407
151
Talent, OR
www.myspace.com
#1
Hey folks,
My main bass has a basswood body and my bottom strap button screw pulled out clean mid-set last night. I shoved it back and finished the set.
The one on the horn is probably going to go next. I use strap locks if that matters.

AI tells me to drill the holes out to 3/8 inch and gluing 3/8" Hardwood dowel using Titebond, let it sit for a day flush cut them, drill new pilot holes, and reinstall the hardware.
Does this sound like a good, long-term solution?
Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.
 
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#3
There's a couple of options. The AI one you mentioned is good. If possible, try to find a hardwood dowel. A better option is, instead of a dowel, get a 3/8" plug cutter and cut face grain plugs to glue in the hole so the screw isn't going into end grain. The one most people do is get toothpicks wet with Titebond original, shove in enough to fill the hole, trim or break them off flush and screw in the strap button with the Titebond still wet.
 
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#4
Matt Liebenau said:
There's a couple of options. The AI one you mentioned is good. If possible, try to find a hardwood dowel. A better option is, instead of a dowel, get a 3/8" plug cutter and cut face grain plugs to glue in the hole so the screw isn't going into end grain. The one most people do is get toothpicks wet with Titebond original, shove in enough to fill the hole, trim or break them off flush and screw in the strap button with the Titebond still wet.
Click to expand...
Using toothpicks was my initial plan, but AI said that because the basswood is soft and weak, this won't be a good long term solution. I do like your idea, sounds like a quick fix.
 
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#5
gil_mor said:
Using toothpicks was my initial plan, but AI said that because the basswood is soft and weak, this won't be a good long term solution. I do like your idea, sounds like a quick fix.
Click to expand...

Bull****. Use the flat toothpicks and TiteBond and you should be good-to-go. The key is jamming-in what will fit and re-introducing the screw while the glue is still wet. Once cured, you can remove the screw and wick some super-thin CA onto the new threads to toughen up the fibers.

Riis
 
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#10
TeaTime said:
I've done the dowel. I've done the edge cut plug to match grain. Both work.

But fill the hole with glue, cram toothpicks in, and screw the button in while still wet? Fast, easy to do anywhere, and has never failed me.
Click to expand...

Should be a permanent fix and NOT needing renewal. Tip: use hard-to-find flat toothpicks, not round, as they more readily deform and conform while filling the voids. Round toothpicks have the tendency to act more as a shim, forcing the screw up against one side of the screw hole.

Riis
 
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#11
I'm not arguing against the toothpick fix--that works too.

On the drill and install a dowel fix, 3.8 seems kinda big, might be visible around the felt washer/strap button. Maybe a 5/16 or 1/4 dowel better?
 
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#14
DanAdams said:
10 comments in, and no has said longer screws yet?
Glue and plugs is good too.
I've never understood why those screws are so short when loose strap buttons has been an issue since the beginning of bass guitars.
Click to expand...

Billy Sheehan famously secures his bass straps by directly bolting them to the body using large 2-inch screws and
heavy-duty metal washers

Disclaimer: Not a recommendation just an option (but I have successfully done this in the past)
 
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#15
I'm going to admit that I am worried about strap locks on my Okoume body Sadowsky MetroExpress. They come standard, but they seem a little rough in terms of pulling tension on the mounts. Perhaps it's all in my mind, I just tend to worry about things like that. I'd skip the locks and just use the nubs but they aren't sufficient for purchase with my leather straps, without the lock HW added.

Basswood, well that's even softer wood. Could be a problem.
 
#17
The real issue is the soft basswood body wood and machined strap lock screws. There are a lot of ways to skin the proverbial cat, but the flat toothpick trick works simply and generally doesn't require a trip anywhere for supplies. Longer screws work for some buttons, but the OP mentioned having strap locks and those usually have smaller, recessed holes that make finding a screw head that will work a challenge. Any household with toothpicks will have less of a challenge.
 
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#18
Another option.... Since you said you use strap locks... If you happen to use Dunlop locks, You can switch the buttons to flush mount ones. They're way stronger. Can't see one of those ever pulling out.
Screenshot_20260405-181950.Google.png
 
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#19
What has worked for me is coating the inside of the hole with wood glue on the end of a toothpick, then stuffing a toothpick—measured point-down to the depth of the hole—into the hole with the pointed end outward, waiting about an hour or so, then screwing in the new strap button while the glue is still slightly humid. Allow to cure. Never had a failure.
 
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