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Ric 4003 NBD Letdown

I hear about stuff like this happening with Ricks all the time. For what they cost, they're really not made well at all.

Have you ever played one? If you had, you'd see that they are made very well. But they aren't perfect, and that's the issue you run into.

You can read about this stuff on here quite often. I wouldn't make more of an issue out of it than it actually is. Ric's issues are all minor. Very rarely do you see one that is completely wrecked. Issues are mostly cosmetic. They are made just fine and for what you can get them for nowadays, they are priced about right.

To the OP: I'm looking forward to your report after your tech sets the bass up for you!
 
I do not think its a problem with the quality of Rickenbacker basses but in a lack of quality in there quality control system. most of the basses should of been picked up at quality control and sorted before they ever leave the factory. the do not have a huge workforce so maybe its only a % of basses that are checked for Quality and finnish.
 
The problem is this: when there is an issue, you read about it.
When there's a happy Rick player enjoying his/her bass you don't read about it, so all you ever see is a bunch of negative posts.

Granted, much of what we do see posted is stuff that should have been spotted before it left the factory, but to speculate what actual percentage of instruments have problems is impossible.

If someone were to post 'I just got my 4003 and it's perfect', you'd see a bunch of flames saying 'you're full of $#!t, they're crap and everyone knows it, you're just a fanboy trying to suck up to John Hall'.

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P.S: still waiting to see how the final replacement turned out....
 
I hear about stuff like this happening with Ricks all the time. For what they cost, they're really not made well at all.

I am not a "fan-boy" at all ... but Rickenbacker quality is really quite good ... A Rick bass sits in a wharehouse for 6 months where the humidity level is too low and then it gets shipped by some carrier and thrown around in the back of a truck for several days. Then it gets exposed to more changes in temperature and humidity and perhaps dropped a couple times. Then someone opens up the box and is upset the bass is not perfect.

I have never seen a "flawless" Rick bass. But then I usually buy used.

Also The basses that are in music stores get handled by a ton of amateurs with greasy dirty hands so they get beat up and often need a geed setup and a new set of strings.

I think it is a matter of expectations. I expect that when I buy a bass it will need a setup (including the nut) possibly new strings and maybe even a small repair. I bought a new Ibby bass and it needed a setup and an output jack. I have the parts and the workshop to do the repairs. I also put on straploks.

But that is me ... part of the fun of owning basses is also working on them.
 
You may have to adjust the neck some day. Those TIs are really low tension. The factory strings are medium at best. So it probably needs a little tightening if you ever go to any other string. That's okay; RIC sets the action fairly high from the factory, I have noticed. Every new one I play in recent years is like that.

For the record... at least as nuts go, a high-cut nut does not make a bass a turd whatsoever, and I hope someone else gets to enjoy the bass. There was also the one with the strings that were offset, but again I really think that was highly blown out of proportion. I've seen cases of QC slip-ups in this area that actually were very bad; in your case it didn't appear to be a real problem and even if so could have been very easily remedied by getting the factory to replace the saddles (a very replaceable part like the nut); nevermind that this job would have probably had no impact on sound or playability but at least it would have looked slightly more centered to you. Maybe my attitude is in the minority but I would rather have gotten dealer/builder help to fix the minor issues than go through three basses to find a good one. Now, a bum neck or a truly misaligned bridge? That's return time. So don't get me wrong, I'm just another rabid fanboy it would seem. Although as I'm writing this I feel like my motivation is to get the OP to avoid more headaches in the future by figuring out what's a big deal and what isn't...

Cool. I feel like I'm in the choir now, and you're preaching to it. After the 2nd bass I was faced with a decision to pay someone to fix up the (apparently minute) quirks per the near-unanimus advice, OR get "rewarded" with a $100 credit to send the bass back for another exchange. Those were Zzound's terms as strange as they were. After all this trouble (self-induced or not), I ended up with a great new bass that net for equal or less than the going rate for a used Ric. Is this one perfect? No. There's a tiny little knot in the rosewood on the 2nd fret haha ;) But she plays great, has the best fretwork I have ever seen, and sounds awesome!!!

PS - I see Zzounds listed my first exchange as "blemished" for $1550. Those vultures. (Not because the bass is unplayable, but you can get a better deal on a new-new bass from PotR or Wildwood).
 
Hey, if you're happy then cheers! At this point any of my advice is just for future reference...

I do understand that you have to work within the terms of a dealer as well, and sometimes they make it a lot easier to exchange than quickly cut off the wart. The customer doesn't always get all the decision-making power sadly.
 
I feel like an idiot. There was some bad buzzing since I got the 3rd bass, but I was just chalking it up to bad setup because I literally just tossed TIs on the bass. I took it to a reputable tech who I trust and who specializes specifically in Rics. He was unable to get the TIs to sit without buzzing. We switched strings to 9050s, more buzzing (no matter what adjustments were made). Long story short... diagnosed S curve. I don't know how I missed it.

I give up.

I'll figure out what to do next in the morning.
 
dang. that's crazy. if you still want to go Ric, check out Invalid Link Removed

This guy knows his stuff. He was the one who ID'd Bob Dylan's Newport Jazz Festival Strat.

If I were you I'd probably give up though
 
I feel like an idiot. There was some bad buzzing since I got the 3rd bass, but I was just chalking it up to bad setup because I literally just tossed TIs on the bass. I took it to a reputable tech who I trust and who specializes specifically in Rics. He was unable to get the TIs to sit without buzzing. We switched strings to 9050s, more buzzing (no matter what adjustments were made). Long story short... diagnosed S curve. I don't know how I missed it.

I give up.

I'll figure out what to do next in the morning.

I actually read through this entire thread... Bought a jetglo 4003 in 2008 from MF..had the same problem. Buzzing no matter what, even after a 'set up' by a Ric authorized deal/repairman (you are in queens so you may know the place, Music Zoo out in little neck). Still had the same problem. Sold it shortly after.

looking back years later, I kinda wish I still had it, even with the buzzing it was a pretty sweet and unique sounding bass in the studio. Hope that doesn't happen to you.I think since lighting didnt strike the 3rd time, you should just do what others have suggested on this board.....give up on Rics altogether.
 
At this point i'd get your money and run. If you really want a Ric, find a place in your area where you can get hands on with them and pick one that speaks to you. Pay the extra money for sales tax.

Or do what a lot of people do and order it from POTR or Wildwood. I've had excellent service from both, but I can't recommend Wildwood high enough.
 
thiocyclist said:
Now that sounds highly return worthy...

Could always try a spare set of strings you have on hand first to be certain (doesn't seem like it should help but it can), otherwise there's not a lot that can be done.

I tried three sets: stock, TIs, and Fender 9050s. Classic S curve. Adding relief didn't extend enough past the 10th fret (bottom of the S) allowing w proper string clearance. Tightening the rods didn't leave enough headroom to fix the backbow at the top (top of the S). There wasn't a middle ground without dead-buzzing notes without compensating at the bridge and having the action a mile high. It's bad and she's going back for a refund. I am so sad. I know now I should have worked with the wonky nut on the 2nd bass... no need to kick, I'm already down.

Once I get my money and my wits back, I might give WW or PotR a call.

Thanks.
 
I feel like an idiot. There was some bad buzzing since I got the 3rd bass, but I was just chalking it up to bad setup because I literally just tossed TIs on the bass. I took it to a reputable tech who I trust and who specializes specifically in Rics. He was unable to get the TIs to sit without buzzing. We switched strings to 9050s, more buzzing (no matter what adjustments were made). Long story short... diagnosed S curve. I don't know how I missed it.

I give up.

I'll figure out what to do next in the morning.

Are you sure you got a problem? S curves (AKA ski jumps) aren't that uncommon - both of my carvins have a hair bit of a ski jump and those fingerboards are ground to a zillionth of an inch by machine lol.....

Fretted basses just buzz like crazy anyway (one of the reasons I went FL) and it's almost impossible to get rid of it without a mile-high action. And on the Rick, the buzz actually helps the sound a bit lol.

After 3 basses I'd start to be a bit suspicious of being too meticulous. My 70's 4001 that I gigged with for years also had a slight ski jump and it was mostly fixed by crowning the frets when I finally took it in for a refret. My 4003S and my current 4003 are mostly flat, but I bet if I stared at mine for a while I'd start to see a ski jump in it too... And it's buzzy just like all my other fretted basses were....

LS
 
It's time for a Brick & Mortar store. You have the Hipshot bridge and the TI Flats. Buy your Ric from a store that will put on the Bridge & TI's on as part of the purchase. It's just like your Car if You can't do it yourself then you need a good Mechanic and then build a relationship with them. Dual truss rods really take away the chance of S-curve if you know what you are doing.
 
Fretted basses just buzz like crazy anyway (one of the reasons I went FL) and it's almost impossible to get rid of it without a mile-high action. And on the Rick, the buzz actually helps the sound a bit lol.


LS

This is not true. It's definitely not the case with Ric's, who, in my experience, have excellent playability right out of the box.

Many times the inability to play without fret buzz is a technique issue (how hard you play).