I hear about stuff like this happening with Ricks all the time. For what they cost, they're really not made well at all.
See, that's just not accurate at all.
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I hear about stuff like this happening with Ricks all the time. For what they cost, they're really not made well at all.
I hear about stuff like this happening with Ricks all the time. For what they cost, they're really not made well at all.
I hear about stuff like this happening with Ricks all the time. For what they cost, they're really not made well at all.
You may have to adjust the neck some day. Those TIs are really low tension. The factory strings are medium at best. So it probably needs a little tightening if you ever go to any other string. That's okay; RIC sets the action fairly high from the factory, I have noticed. Every new one I play in recent years is like that.
For the record... at least as nuts go, a high-cut nut does not make a bass a turd whatsoever, and I hope someone else gets to enjoy the bass. There was also the one with the strings that were offset, but again I really think that was highly blown out of proportion. I've seen cases of QC slip-ups in this area that actually were very bad; in your case it didn't appear to be a real problem and even if so could have been very easily remedied by getting the factory to replace the saddles (a very replaceable part like the nut); nevermind that this job would have probably had no impact on sound or playability but at least it would have looked slightly more centered to you. Maybe my attitude is in the minority but I would rather have gotten dealer/builder help to fix the minor issues than go through three basses to find a good one. Now, a bum neck or a truly misaligned bridge? That's return time. So don't get me wrong, I'm just another rabid fanboy it would seem. Although as I'm writing this I feel like my motivation is to get the OP to avoid more headaches in the future by figuring out what's a big deal and what isn't...
Too many pages to sift through to see if this has been said already, but...
sloppy nut work...
usually that costs extra, right?![]()

I feel like an idiot. There was some bad buzzing since I got the 3rd bass, but I was just chalking it up to bad setup because I literally just tossed TIs on the bass. I took it to a reputable tech who I trust and who specializes specifically in Rics. He was unable to get the TIs to sit without buzzing. We switched strings to 9050s, more buzzing (no matter what adjustments were made). Long story short... diagnosed S curve. I don't know how I missed it.
I give up.
I'll figure out what to do next in the morning.
Long story short... diagnosed S curve. I don't know how I missed it.
thiocyclist said:Now that sounds highly return worthy...
Could always try a spare set of strings you have on hand first to be certain (doesn't seem like it should help but it can), otherwise there's not a lot that can be done.
I feel like an idiot. There was some bad buzzing since I got the 3rd bass, but I was just chalking it up to bad setup because I literally just tossed TIs on the bass. I took it to a reputable tech who I trust and who specializes specifically in Rics. He was unable to get the TIs to sit without buzzing. We switched strings to 9050s, more buzzing (no matter what adjustments were made). Long story short... diagnosed S curve. I don't know how I missed it.
I give up.
I'll figure out what to do next in the morning.
Fretted basses just buzz like crazy anyway (one of the reasons I went FL) and it's almost impossible to get rid of it without a mile-high action. And on the Rick, the buzz actually helps the sound a bit lol.
LS