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Rickenbacker 4001 Truss Rod Plate replacement?

R

Rickybocker187

Mar 22, 2024
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#1
I have the classic bent deformed aluminum truss rod thrust plate on my 4001 Rickenbacker. I cant find anyone selling replacements online. So I might have to draw one in CAD and get a machine shop to build me one.

Has anyone done this? Anybody got existing drawings/dimensions? Or want to make me one for $.

Thanks
 
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#2
Rickybocker187 said:
I have the classic bent deformed aluminum truss rod thrust plate on my 4001 Rickenbacker. I cant find anyone selling replacements online. So I might have to draw one in CAD and get a machine shop to build me one.

Has anyone done this? Anybody got existing drawings/dimensions? Or want to make me one for $.

Thanks
Click to expand...

There shouldn't be any need for CAD and a machine shop. If I remember correctly, it's just a small rectangle of aluminum plate with two holes in it? You can make that yourself with hand tools and a vise in a few minutes.
 
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#4
Yes, I've worked on and repaired the truss rods on 4001's quite a few times. I have a nice '79 4001F in my own collection, tucked away in my music room. That part is a small aluminum bar, roughly 5/16" x 3/16" x 3/4" long. It has two holes in it and the back corners are rounded off to fit into the back of the routed pocket in the neck. A very simple part to make up with hand tools and a vise.
 
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#5
Based on the number of deformed aluminum truss rod plates I've seen on Rics, is there any reason not to make it out of steel? Maybe even stainless, so it won't rust in the pocket? The one in my 78' 4001 ARRIVED slightly bent, they must have had to torque the snot out of it in the factory to get the neck flat. That neck never was too stable, primary reason I eventually sold it.
 
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#9
Gilmourisgod said:
Based on the number of deformed aluminum truss rod plates I've seen on Rics, is there any reason not to make it out of steel? Maybe even stainless, so it won't rust in the pocket? The one in my 78' 4001 ARRIVED slightly bent, they must have had to torque the snot out of it in the factory to get the neck flat. That neck never was too stable, primary reason I eventually sold it.
Click to expand...

Aluminum or brass are recommended, since the chisel points on the adjacent unthreaded half of the rod,
have something softer to bite into.
Also, steel thrust washers, directly under the nuts,
to protect the (softer) block from galling, is a good idea.

@Beej 's example above, seems like it has a steel plate under the nut side,
and an aluminum block on the chisel side,
which is probably the ideal set-up :thumbsup:

Oh yeah, welcome to the forum @Rickybocker187 ! :)
 
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#10
Rickybocker187 said:
I have the classic bent deformed aluminum truss rod thrust plate on my 4001 Rickenbacker. I cant find anyone selling replacements online. So I might have to draw one in CAD and get a machine shop to build me one.

Has anyone done this? Anybody got existing drawings/dimensions? Or want to make me one for $.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear about this. I had a 4001 for over 34 years and I never needed to adjust mine. Sounds like you just need some very basic tools to do it yourself. If it were me, I’d probably see if a luthier could make that part as well as making the proper truss rod adjustment so this desn’t happen again.
 
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#11
And to further comment on an above post: soft steel would also be alright. A tad harder to work than aluminum, but would get the job done and have less risk of deforming. You can always put punch marks on the backside of the bar on the places the hairpin truss rods anchor into.
 
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#12
Bruce Johnson said:
Maybe it's just me, but it seems kind of silly to have that little part made in the UK, and shipped over here by air. What a waste of all resources. Seriously, I could make that part in 5 minutes here in my shop, with hand tools.
Click to expand...
I'm with you. I never buy anything I can easily make, but some people don't have a tools or interest in fabricating parts.
 
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#13
Yeah, I tend to just assume everyone as at least some basic tools, but if you live in an apartment, that might be a stretch to make on your kitchen table. She isn't active recently, but a builder named Frederiek form the Netherlands managed to do some amazing builds, literally on her kitchen table and a tiny outdoor balcony, so where there's a will....Again, I don't get why you'd make a part notorius for failing on a Ric out of the same demonstrably understrength material, but yeah... aluminum is easier to file than steel. That's about all I can think of to recommend it for this function.
 
#14
Ok. Thanks for all the comments.

The Rickysounds steel plate replacement is meant for the 4003 only. I've already talked to him about possible replacing the truss rods with his redesigned 4001 ones but once I got the rods pulled out they appear to be fine. Just the thrust plate is bent. I dont have any good lutheirs near me that can work on vintage or anything hard honestly. I had a good one but he moved away. I could probably do the aluminum block myself, but was wanting to go with steel so I figured it best to have a machine shop do it.

It sounds like I should still go with aluminum and reinforce the nut side with stainless washers or if I can the steel plate. I had that same idea to really reinforce the block. I've never shaped metal before. I have a dremel and some files. Not sure if the dremel is the right tool for job. A small block of aluminum is only like $10.....So I guess I'll give it a shot.

I also like what this guy did. He made the thrust plate deeper to make the nuts more accessible and to help prevent the plate from bending in again.
Rickenbacker neck repair – SF Guitarworks
 
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