• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Rickenbacker Maintenance

So lately I've been really gassing for a Ric 4903 or 4003s. My question is, are these basses any more difficult to maintain (i.e. Setup, keep in tune, more impacted by humidity) than say a Fender Jazz bass or G&L, Stingray, etc. ?

I know some of the older RICs seemed to require a lot more babying. Is this still the case?
 
  • Like
Reactions: spaz21387
They're really easy, honestly. Intonation isn't as big of a deal as people make it out to be, and unless you're changing string brands/types constantly something you're not doing regularly. Tuning...my Rick stays in tune better than any of my single-trussrod basses, and it's not very impacted by humidity. Truss Rod wrench can be purchased easily from Pick of the Ricks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sartori and 59jazz
So lately I've been really gassing for a Ric 4903 or 4003s. My question is, are these basses any more difficult to maintain (i.e. Setup, keep in tune, more impacted by humidity) than say a Fender Jazz bass or G&L, Stingray, etc. ?

I know some of the older RICs seemed to require a lot more babying. Is this still the case?
My vote goes towards the 4903. :smug:

I don't have to pull the neck off (or, at least loosen the neck screws a bunch) as on vintage style Fenders, and others who copy that concept, to adjust the truss rods. ;) Otherwise, they are pretty much maintenance free outside of an occasional (seasonal) minor adjustment of the truss rods. My older (March '73) 4001 (with the old style rods) never needs adjusting so long as I use the same tension strings on it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sartori
I think that's actually not at all true.

Well, they might be a bit more challenging to set up initially, particularly if they are new to you, but once set up, it's just not a big deal. Mine (85 4003) has been dialed in for years, and I didn't need to do a thing until I changed string types a couple of months ago. I tweaked the truss rods to account for the higher string tension, checked and adjusted the intonation and saddle height, and I was done in well under an hour. Been stable ever since.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sartori
If you're unlucky enough to have one of the ones with the "black lifting tailpiece" issue, they're substantially higher maintenance. Almost got that problem beat finally, though.
 
If you get a new one:
- The tailpiece is extremely unlikely to fold up, like the old, black powder-coated ones did every once in a while (powder-coat/high heat, and zinc alloy don't mix well). The vast majority of the old chrome ones are fine. RIC has supposedly improved the new ones a tad (and doesn't powder coat them any more), so you might not get any tail lift at all. I have a 43-year old 4001 (7 months younger than Jeff's), and a 15-year old 4003; the tail lift on them is identical, and minimal...
- The set up on a Rick is a little different, and at worst, more involved than most other basses; two truss rods instead of one, and yes, the bridge can be fiddly to get it the way it needs to be; but no, setting up a Rick isn't hard. Try setting up the bridge on a Gibson Thunderbird - or an Alembic - sometime; not exactly eezy-peezy, either. But, once it's set, that's the way a Rick bridge will stay, until you change it. I got both of mine used (no new lefties at the time), about 9 years ago now, and the set up on them has never had to be touched since I did it originally. I think the reason people are scared of setting up a Rick, is all the horror stories left over from the old 4001s, with the Dreaded Hairpin Truss Rods. They aren't hard to adjust (pretty easy, actually), but the procedure is very different from other basses (including 4003s), and doing it wrong (and lots of people did) would result in, at best, popping the fretboard off; at worst, popping the fretboard off and breaking the neck, too. Still, if you like to fiddle around with your bass all the time, IMO a Rick is probably not for you...
-Stability? Depends on where you live, I guess. Here in the desert, mine have never had to be messed with. Someplace with big seasonal changes? No worse than any other bass, I imagine. But, given the nature of wood, I imagine that it's as easy to get a fussy Rick as anything else...

And as for Dave Reaume and his sad story about his Rick; I would have thought he'd have had the sense to check for burrs on that bridge saddle; he never mentioned what kind of strings he was using (cheap junk will break on any bass); and you'll notice he's Canadian (big temp/humidity swings). So, he prefers Fenders - good for him; I like my Fender P-Bass, too. Difference of opinion is what makes horse racing...:)
 
I have an older one but I haven't had to adjust in for years . The old style rods some people complain about are incredibly stable . Most of my basses require the twice a year trussrod twist but my Ric does not . Much less maintenance than my other basses to be honest .
The output jack is an odd thing and if it gets twisted you might think a pickup has stopped working . It 's easy to bend it back into position .
The bridge is a pain to adjust compared to a Fender style bridge . But many people manage to set their Rics up with incredibly low action so they must work ...
The dual trussrod system is not too hard to figure out .
They're made differently than other instruments , but they are beautifully made .
 

Latest posts