Routing/chiseling under a pickguard for new pickup cavity?

[fourstringbliss]

I want to turn this MM/P bass into an MM/MM bass. I can get a new pickguard made with an MM pickup route but would need to remove wood in that opening and then slightly around underneath to make room for the MM. I don't have a router - would it work to hog it with a drill and then clean things up with a chisel?

 

[JRA]

I don't have a router - would it work to hog it with a drill and then clean things up with a chisel?

i did exactly that for the same reason (no router) but not that configuration: i hogged out room for a split coil vs. the J it was routed for, and i depended on the aftermarket pickguard to hide the obvious:

the new pickguard revealing what the hog-out entails:


i scored the finish before 'routing' with a drill bit:


after a brad-point drill bit hog-out, but before chisel clean-up (there wasn't much, hardly any, for the pickups to fit nicely --- and the pickguard did the rest as expected...


...a J turned into a PJ with the help of a drill bit, a chisel, and a ~$30 pickguard (WD):

it's one of those things = if i can do it, so can you! good luck with your modification!

edit: i forgot to credit the glarry club members for their support on the "hog out" --- especially @Dubious Aa, who gave me tips and encouragement!

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Certainly doable and, if you’re good with a chisel, can look pretty good. If you’re not… well, there’s a pickguard. You’ll want to apply some kind of finish to the newly bare wood. I’d probably use black paint but TruOil or clear polyurethane will work also.

 

[CletusMarley]

I routed an old Tele with a Leatherman tool so I could put a humbucker in the neck. Turned out pretty good.

 

[fourstringbliss]

i did exactly that for the same reason (no router) but not that configuration: i hogged out room for a split coil vs. the J it was routed for, and i depended on the aftermarket pickguard to hide the obvious:

the new pickguard revealing what the hog-out entails:
View attachment 4839043

i scored the finish before 'routing' with a drill bit:
View attachment 4839044

after a brad-point drill bit hog-out, but before chisel clean-up (there wasn't much, hardly any, for the pickups to fit nicely --- and the pickguard did the rest as expected...
View attachment 4839046

...a J turned into a PJ with the help of a drill bit, a chisel, and a ~$30 pickguard (WD):
View attachment 4839050

it's one of those things = if i can do it, so can you! good luck with your modification!

Good call about the brad-point dril bits. I figure I'll screw the new pickguard down and mark the outline of the wood removal through the new pickup opening and then make it a bit wider. like you, I figure I can get the screw hole positions using the attached pickguard and the new pickup.

 

[fourstringbliss]

Certainly doable and, if you’re good with a chisel, can look pretty good. If you’re not… well, there’s a pickguard. You’ll want to apply some kind of finish to the newly bare wood. I’d probably use black paint but TruOil or clear polyurethane will work also.

Good call about coating the bare wood. I could probably use some leftover latex paint. I'd then be applying a layer of copper foil shielding to the new unshielded part of the pickup cavity.

 

[darwin-bass]

Be careful about controlling drill depth. You don’t want to go too deep. A drill press is your friend in a case like this.

I wouldn’t bother painting the exposed wood, esp with house paint. Leave it bare, apply some oil finish, or mask it and spray a coat of paint. Personally, I would just leave it bare..

 

[willddd]

I did similar recently (not as much wood to remove as the OP), and after scouring the internet, researching drill bits and presses, buying a dremel router bit etc etc.....
I used an old (but sharp) chisel. Worked out great.

 

[BlueRock]

If you have a drill press an end mill will probably work better to hog it out than a drill bit.

 

[definenredefine]

Good call about coating the bare wood. I could probably use some leftover latex paint. I'd then be applying a layer of copper foil shielding to the new unshielded part of the pickup cavity.

How about shielding paint?

 

[Jazz Ad]

If you have a drill press an end mill will probably work better to hog it out than a drill bit.

Yeah a décent drill press is inexpensive and will make your work a lot easier and safer.

 

[Minimalist]

You can do a lot with minimal or subpar tools. One thing to keep in mind though, with proper tools the result will be better 98% of the time.

 

[claudel]

I just did this with a hand drill ( non electric old school ) and a chisel a few weeks ago...

A few helpful hints

Mark depth on bit with masking tape so you don't go too deep...

Sharpen the chisel properly...

If there's an existing finish, score through the finish around the new perimeter of the cavity to help avoid chipping.

If you get a chip, glue it back in with CA immediately so you don't lose it.

Work slowly, chisel gently.

Clean out the new cavity with coarse sandpaper.

Copper tape or shielding paint will indeed cover up much of the ugly

It's all hidden afterward, anyway.

 

[Dirk Diggler]

Forstner bits if you must do it that way, routers are cheap, even a trim router will do a much more controlled and consistent route. Tape off the area, and use a knife to trace the route area to keep the finish from chipping.

And of course sharpen your chisel.
Good luck,
Dirk

 

[skyline_01]

I want to turn this MM/P bass into an MM/MM bass. I can get a new pickguard made with an MM pickup route but would need to remove wood in that opening and then slightly around underneath to make room for the MM. I don't have a router - would it work to hog it with a drill and then clean things up with a chisel?

View attachment 4839016

That looks to be a killer bass when completed!

And pardon my ignorance, but I'm having trouble identifying the bass - care to share?

 

[DrBnz]

Oh, its do-able.... I'd still ask around first. Especially ask old people (like your boss or others at work). Most of us have an old router in the garage collecting dust that we'd let you use. You only need it for a 5 minute cut. Just be sure the body is clamped down before you start or it'll get real interesting / QUICK.

 

[JeezyMcNuggles]

I want to turn this MM/P bass into an MM/MM bass. I can get a new pickguard made with an MM pickup route but would need to remove wood in that opening and then slightly around underneath to make room for the MM. I don't have a router - would it work to hog it with a drill and then clean things up with a chisel?

View attachment 4839016

Word. That's how I did it on my talman. I too didn't have a router, but needed a new hole for another pot. I made it happen. I used a pocket knife though. I also didn't have a chisel.

 

[GregT]

I've done it with a chisel. If you tale your time, it can look completely professional. Once you get it started, it gets easier. I have a woodshop with two routers. I'd still choose a chisel and mallet to do the same job. A lot of the beautiful priceless furniture was created before routers existed.

 

[fourstringbliss]

Yup, I'll be drilling to hog out the wood and the chiseling to clean it up. I was thinking about possibly using these drill bits, which might solve the issue of drilling too deep and give more control. For sure I'd measure the depth of the pickup cavity with my drill bits and then tape off where I need to stop.

I'd also be using new chisels since I don't own any at the moment, so they'd be plenty sharp.

Nice thing about all the work is that unless I really screw up, everything I do will be under a pickguard.

 

[fourstringbliss]

I just did this with a hand drill ( non electric old school ) and a chisel a few weeks ago...

A few helpful hints

Mark depth on bit with masking tape so you don't go too deep...

Sharpen the chisel properly...

If there's an existing finish, score through the finish around the new perimeter of the cavity to help avoid chipping.

If you get a chip, glue it back in with CA immediately so you don't lose it.

Work slowly, chisel gently.

Clean out the new cavity with coarse sandpaper.

Copper tape or shielding paint will indeed cover up much of the ugly

It's all hidden afterward, anyway.

All excellent suggestions, thanks!