I'm going to give the varnish a couple or three weeks to cure before rubbing it out, but should I rub out with the grain or in small circles?
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Double Bass rub out question
- Thread starter Don Harris
- Start date
Are you using something like pumice or rottenstone with parafin oil? I've used rottenstone and direction doesn't seem to make a big difference. If it is something more abrasive, probably try to stay with the grain.
Since I've padded on the last couple clear coats I won't need anything but fine pumice and rottenstone. I'll have to check out parafin oil. I was planning to use soapy water.
Parafin oil is another name for mineral oil.
If you use pumice and rottenstone you can rub circular. If you use wet and dry sandpaper, 400 and 600 rub with a circular motion and do the final strokes with the grain. Your eye will tell you what to do.
If you use pumice and rottenstone you can rub circular. If you use wet and dry sandpaper, 400 and 600 rub with a circular motion and do the final strokes with the grain. Your eye will tell you what to do.
- Nov 6, 2007
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- humble instrument maker
Joe Robson has this on his site.Interesting, I haven't tried it.
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For me, if I'm sanding, it's with the grain, and when I'm rubbing out its mostly with as well. I find it easier to remove the previous grit scratches if they are vertical, harder if they are swirls, impossible if they are horizontal.
When its all done, I notice that I see small circular scratches regardless, which I have no explination for. Take a look at a black car thats freshly washed as an example of this phenom.
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For me, if I'm sanding, it's with the grain, and when I'm rubbing out its mostly with as well. I find it easier to remove the previous grit scratches if they are vertical, harder if they are swirls, impossible if they are horizontal.
When its all done, I notice that I see small circular scratches regardless, which I have no explination for. Take a look at a black car thats freshly washed as an example of this phenom.
- Nov 6, 2007
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- humble instrument maker
Water with pumice is more abrasive than oil with pumice.( same rules for sandpaper) I'll usually start with water (faster)and then use the same abrasive but with oil (glossy-er).Then move on to the next finer grit, repeating the procedure.
I'll usually stop at the fine pumice stage, I don't like a lot of gloss on my own instruments.
I'll usually stop at the fine pumice stage, I don't like a lot of gloss on my own instruments.
You shouldn't have any scratches in your varnish either with pumice and rottenstone or 400 followed by 600 wet and dry.
You can go up to 1200 or 1500 from there if you want, but it isn't necessary. Some like a product called Micro-mesh but it isn't necessary and it is expensive.
I gave up using pumice and rottenstone. They are very good, but it's difficult to get the rottenstone out of tight places like the bottom of the neck joint where it meets the ribs etc.
You can go up to 1200 or 1500 from there if you want, but it isn't necessary. Some like a product called Micro-mesh but it isn't necessary and it is expensive.
I gave up using pumice and rottenstone. They are very good, but it's difficult to get the rottenstone out of tight places like the bottom of the neck joint where it meets the ribs etc.
I've got micro-mesh, but my thinking is that any kind of sand paper will tend to take off the high spots a bit and leave the low spots shiny(between the winter growth??) whereas the pumice and rottenstone follow the small contours better.
The wet and dry should do the same thing. That is you should be able to have the top surface of the varnish completely flat.
You are right. If you sand the finish, the areas of grain, especially on the top, that are lower will not be abraded. So when you rub the sanded area up to shine it will look duller than the low-lying areas. That is, unless you rub the surface to a mirror sheen matching the untouched varnish, which you previously said you don't want. If you use pumice and/or rottenstone, use a stiff brush on the top and in the corners. That way the bristles will bring the abrasive down into the winter grain and in the transition areas, resulting in a more even rubdown. I hope you've laid down some clear coats so you don't lose color...
I did pad on some clear coats really thinly, that's why I'm afraid of even really fine sand paper. I had enough experience going through color sanding between coats to last me awhile.
I got a bit impatient and decided to try rubbing out a c-bout this morning. I used almond oil and fine pumice. It looked so great that I just kept going. I like the satiny look, so I'll leave it just like this. Rubbing out is magic.
I used a piece of white synthetic steel wool from a floor buffing pad to apply it. The stiff brush is a good idea for the tight spots which I need to give some attention to. Now I can't stop looking at it. I need to sand the back of the neck and apply tung oil now. A rubbed out finish puts me under some kind of spell. Must... get... to... work....
I painted ivory black artist oil inside the peg box and edges of the f-holes which looks great, but I had no idea artist oils take so stinking long to dry. I'll make a mess of it fitting the sound post and installing the machines if I can't wait.
I got a bit impatient and decided to try rubbing out a c-bout this morning. I used almond oil and fine pumice. It looked so great that I just kept going. I like the satiny look, so I'll leave it just like this. Rubbing out is magic.
I used a piece of white synthetic steel wool from a floor buffing pad to apply it. The stiff brush is a good idea for the tight spots which I need to give some attention to. Now I can't stop looking at it. I need to sand the back of the neck and apply tung oil now. A rubbed out finish puts me under some kind of spell. Must... get... to... work....I painted ivory black artist oil inside the peg box and edges of the f-holes which looks great, but I had no idea artist oils take so stinking long to dry. I'll make a mess of it fitting the sound post and installing the machines if I can't wait.
